New GT with questions after searching

[17MustangGT]

Afternoon all, recently purchased a 2017 GT Grabber Blue with PP, had some questions for ya after doing the break in and making some observations.

The engine feels great lots of power but it doesn't feel as fast as I would have thought, I know it has the 3.73s in the rear but I don't feel like I am making the power I thought it would. I did some reading and from what it says these engines like to be run like a boiler keep it higher in the revs and you feel the power, so what are we talking here? Some forums say above 3 k to 6800 it has the power some say above 4K, just trying to see where this car makes the most bang for the buck.

I am just about to hit 1K so obviously I haven't been trashing on the engine but I have gotten it up there a few times during the break in and for some reason it just doesn't feel like 380HP give or take to the rear wheels.

Rev matching, what gives........I have had multiple cars all standard ranging from a Jeep TJ with 4.56 gears and a 6 speed to a 5 speed ford probe gt, and now my other daily drive which is a 5 speed Nissan Frontier each car truck jeep i was able to rev match, push in the clutch blip the throttle slide into gear release clutch no fuss no muss just a nice clean shift. The Mustang I feel like a newbie again I do the same process and when I release the clutch it will sometimes jump a bit like I am not getting into the proper power band area for the down shift. There is no bucking or lurching but i am sure many of you know what I am referencing it just doesn't feel "clean". Any tips or tricks you could provide that assisted you while understanding the learning curve is this the helper spring I keep reading/hearing about?

Why do I get a thud from 1st to 2, and 2 too 3? I read on some forums this is common with this Gen of mustang some are saying weak subframe allows slop on the diff, some people don't know nor does ford. What gives, I have tired all manners with similar results, gently shifting it in, shifting when in higher RPMS, no change.

Noise coming from trans tunnel, as I mentioned earlier I had a TJ with 4.56s included in that I had a detroit locker, 33 bfg km2s and that wonderful box truck trans Mercedes decided to use in the jeep I am oh so familiar with trans tunnel noise. This is the second mustang gt i have heard with the noise so it seemed normal, low slung car, so noise could just be reflecting back off the ground without dissipation seems like that would all make sense, once again searched the forums some say "eh normal i got the same gear whine noise in cabin with the radio down" all the way to "the sky is falling contact your dealer."

This forum seems like the most knowledgeable and all the posts I have read have been solid with facts, and very helpful people. So thanks for taking the time to read and perhaps chime in. Have a great day everyone!

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[NoVaGT]

1. Beat on the car, do NOT baby the new motor. It needs to be ragged on to avoid oil-consumption issues later on.

2. It rev matches just fine. You haven't had enough time behind the wheel to bond with the car yet, it takes some practice.

3. Everything else is normal.

 

[scrubber3]

Steeda Clutch spring should be your first mod. TRUST ME.
Do a search and you'll see why.

BG transmission and gear oil will help with gear changes and the thud in most cars.

Double tap the traction button to wake it up a bit. I found it easier to "feel" the car with it this way. This puts it in Advance Trac mode. Just don't do it while it's raining.

You can always put noise canceling pads between you and what you think is noisy.

 

[Monopoly]

Have you driven new age muscle?
Sounds like your used to the old gens of power when a car was less refined. But there are tons of mods available to fix that sensation!

 

[wireeater]

Sounds like these were questions you should have asked BEFORE buying it because they are all covered quite a bit on here and if these are things that annoy you, you might regret your purchase. Aftermarket can get rid of most of them though.

I have the PP and with the 3.73 gears I'd say everything above 4500-7000 is were you really feel the power. That's usually around the range where I see my passengers get smashed into the seat. Personally it should always be in that range just because it sounds so damn good.

Not sure what you mean when rev matching, I haven't had a problem with it. Just learn the RPMS for each gear and the ratio the rev needs to be for the downshift.

MT82 is a noisy transmission. It's one of the biggest gripes probably on this forum about it. Changing out the fluid with a better quality is the go-to solution to get rid of most of the issue. Most us the BG Syncro Shift. It clean up the feel and sound quite a bit. I haven't bothered doing it yet but it doesn't really bother me that much when it makes sound as long as it doesn't sound like something breaking.

 

[VinnAY]

Coyote hangs on to revs when you release the pedal making it tougher to drive smoother, in other cars, we've theorized that it's an emissions things of not allowing the throttle to snap closed suddenly. Any one saying it holds revs so you can shift or some built-in rev match is smoking dope.

The rest of your novel is you just being petty about nonsense.

 

[17MustangGT]

Responses in Bold.

Have you driven new age muscle?
Sounds like your used to the old gens of power when a car was less refined. But there are tons of mods available to fix that sensation!

Honestly First V8 engine I have owned personally so I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but I have driven plenty of V8s ranging from older corvettes, Camaros, and a Hemi or two.

Sounds like these were questions you should have asked BEFORE buying it because they are all covered quite a bit on here and if these are things that annoy you, you might regret your purchase. Aftermarket can get rid of most of them though.

Well I did plenty of research on the car and what I was getting into but now that I have had some time behind the wheel I had questions and figured that after all my searches I would ask the people who have far more seat time then me. Like anything else I can research something for days but the actual time in the car or with the product is when you really formulate your decisions and questions. No regrets at all.

I have the PP and with the 3.73 gears I'd say everything above 4500-7000 is were you really feel the power. That's usually around the range where I see my passengers get smashed into the seat. Personally it should always be in that range just because it sounds so damn good.

Thank you all signs were point to that being the range.

Not sure what you mean when rev matching, I haven't had a problem with it. Just learn the RPMS for each gear and the ratio the rev needs to be for the downshift.

Honestly thinking its me, I am use to older gear boxes that get a little sloppy with age and vehicles that I have spent thousands of miles in, so jumping into a new car with a new clutch all signs point to I am probably being a dolt and need to spend more time changing gears at all speeds.

MT82 is a noisy transmission. It's one of the biggest gripes probably on this forum about it. Changing out the fluid with a better quality is the go-to solution to get rid of most of the issue. Most us the BG Syncro Shift. It clean up the feel and sound quite a bit. I haven't bothered doing it yet but it doesn't really bother me that much when it makes sound as long as it doesn't sound like something breaking.

Yea I read about how noisey it is and the fluid recommendations, like I said I had a wrangler with that loud box truck transmission Merc used so the whine is nothing to me really. The only reason I asked was because on my jeep I expected it with all the modifications I did and the fact that it was an actual box truck trans, I wasnt sure if the complaints on the trans with this car were being over exaggerated but when I heard the noise myself I wanted to make sure my mind wasn't making it out to be something bigger

Coyote hangs on to revs when you release the pedal making it tougher to drive smoother, in other cars, we've theorized that it's an emissions things of not allowing the throttle to snap closed suddenly. Any one saying it holds revs so you can shift or some built-in rev match is smoking dope.

The rest of your novel is you just being petty about nonsense.

Eh I wouldn't say its petty nonsense, I am just asking questions to ascertain answers for something that I bought, spent time in, and now formulated those questions based on my experience. As for my novel it goes either way on forums and posts its either your being vague or writing a novel i choose to give as much info rather than making repeated posts to answer further questions from those trying to assist. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[abharwani]

Most of the questions you have are just the unfortunate reality of the MT. And like others said, some mods help fix that. I just got mine in May and am waiting for better weather to change out the fluid and install the clutch assist spring (when it comes in).

As far as the power, the car is almost too refined to feel the raw power. You may not notice (unless you look down at the speedo) because it's so comfortable.

 

[scrubber3]

I just got mine in May and am waiting for better weather to change out the fluid and install the clutch assist spring.

.

The Clutch assist spring takes all of 30 seconds to install. The easiest mod I have ever done. Only hard part was getting my aging butt up in there.

 

[abharwani]

The Clutch assist spring takes all of 30 seconds to install.

Sorry I should have specified, I just ordered the spring today but have been waiting on changing out the fluid. I'm thinking if the spring is in this week, I'll have them both done this weekend.

 

[scrubber3]

Sorry I should have specified, I just ordered the spring today but have been waiting on changing out the fluid. I'm thinking if the spring is in this week, I'll have them both done this weekend.

Sweet. You'll be super happy. It is SOOOO much better. :cheers:

 

[cgreen5150]

Like others have said, change to the Steeda clutch spring and new trans fluid will help. Also look at a spacer for the clutch pedal and/or the gas pedal to help with the heal/toe blip problem. Yes keeping the RPM over 3-4K is where the power wakes up, but getting a CAI with a tune will be a definite help as well. Get a good after market exhaust - It won't really give you much more power, but at least it will sound faster!

 

[cbrookre]

Sorry I should have specified, I just ordered the spring today but have been waiting on changing out the fluid. I'm thinking if the spring is in this week, I'll have them both done this weekend.

As others have said, the spring is super easy to put in and makes a big difference but does not solve it all. The shifting is much more smooth when you get the hang of rev matching.

 

[Cobo_pro]

So I dynoed at 353rwhp stock, uncorrected, (divide by .85 for SAE correction) with hood closed in 95 degree weather. It didn't feel fast either compared to Tuners I've owned such as my Evo XIII with big turbo, VR6 on spray, MS3 etc. But the numbers are there, once I installed the FP power pack 2 with tune, it really opened up the midrange power, and no,lift shift actually helped me a bit more with traction. Hope this helps. Btw I did baseline dyno at 500 mi. Everything in New engines seat pretty fast, I've not burned any oil, and changed all fluids to RP at 1k

 

[jasonstang]

New car is always noisy. My transmission made whining sound from 1st to 4th gear when new, now it's pretty quiet.
As for rev matching, normal mode has the gas pedal dampened for smoothness so you have to give it a bit more throttle to rev the engine up.
Clunk is normal on RWD cars.
Please start thrashing the car already to help engine breaking in.

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