I want to deprogram my rear speakers' EQ

[GTP]

[MENTION=20079]vnzbd[/MENTION] how hard would it be for you to disconnect your center speaker, and then report back on sound quality?

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[vnzbd]

No can do GTP as I have the base 6 speaker set up. Currently with the open holes in the rear as I hoped to achieve a little more bass into the cabin. That is when I was running to JL 8" subs in a sealed box in the trunk. I am actually fairly satisfied with the low end now the front is still just lifeless. It could be the speakers, JL C2s but I doubt it. I still suspect it has something to do with running speaker level or processing. I am thinking of bridging the amp to double the power to the fronts this weekend to see if an difference is to be found there. Again, sorry for the thread hi-jack...

 

[vnzbd]

Just another note, I did try OEM's module to go to speaker level and remove all of the programming. For some unknown reason my car did not accept the download and I switched my amp to the line level config without taking voltage measurements first. This big dummy fried the amp!

 

[GTP]

I am not fully understanding. Are you saying that [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] module increased the ACM output level high enough to fry the factory amp?

 

[Spart]

Why not run without rear speakers at all? Seems like most serious SQ builds omit the rears entirely in favor of setting up a front stage and doing time alignment and DSP on the fronts for the best quality.

As I mentioned, I have my speakers faded all the way to the front and I feel like it sounds better that way - completely stock system though.

 

[vnzbd]

OEM's module was supposed to convert the speaker level down to line level as well as remove the factory EQ. It did neither for me but I am sure it has helped others. My amp has a switch for setting it up either speaker or line level. On the initial install I went speaker level until his programmer became available. When I ran the programmer I flipped the amp switch from speaker to line. Well at about 2/3 volume the base unit puts outs over 10 volts when run with a JL test disc at 1kHz. I found that out after trouble shooting the smell of burnt silicon. The amp I believe is limited to 4 volts at line level. Live and learn...

 

[vnzbd]

Spart, agree with what you are saying but then you run without any bass to speak of. So either a sub in the trunk or something in the rear deck would fix that issue.

 

[Spart]

OEM's module was supposed to convert the speaker level down to line level as well as remove the factory EQ. It did neither for me but I am sure it has helped others. My amp has a switch for setting it up either speaker or line level. On the initial install I went speaker level until his programmer became available. When I ran the programmer I flipped the amp switch from speaker to line. Well at about 2/3 volume the base unit puts outs over 10 volts when run with a JL test disc at 1kHz. I found that out after trouble shooting the smell of burnt silicon. The amp I believe is limited to 4 volts at line level. Live and learn...

You might try doing the as-built change yourself (since we're all pretty sure that's all Jesse's module was attempting to do in hindsight.)

Also be aware of my previous caveats with programming the APIM and ACM - when you shut the car off, they don't turn off immediately. They need to be fully power cycled for the changes to take effect.

 

[Spart]

Spart, agree with what you are saying but then you run without any bass to speak of. So either a sub in the trunk or something in the rear deck would fix that issue.

I didn't notice a ton of bass coming from the rears to be honest.

Custom trunk sub is on my to-do list.

 

[GTP]

Why not run without rear speakers at all? Seems like most serious SQ builds omit the rears entirely in favor of setting up a front stage and doing time alignment and DSP on the fronts for the best quality.

As I mentioned, I have my speakers faded all the way to the front and I feel like it sounds better that way - completely stock system though.

True enough. My rears did not play very loud, so I have the fade most of the way to the rear. And yet they just add a little "surround" type volume, lol.

But I agree - I want to try these decent 7" woofers as "subs", with 1st or 2nd order lowpass filter set to somewhere around 100Hz. But I need flat EQ first! :frusty:

 

[Spart]

I don't get why you're not willing to at least try sending a flat signal to the fronts. You must hold Ford's DSP in higher esteem than I do.
[MENTION=29259]SWallace[/MENTION] did you see my earlier post on what you should try for your vert?

 

[GTP]

I don't even know if the fronts are an active system or passive. I would assume they are active via 6 channels for the 6 drivers, or even more channels with the center and/or rear speakers.

As for front EQ, if the system is active, then there is very likely EQ for all sorts of raw driver non-linearities. So changing speaker units will decalibrate the system from the matching EQ. Conversely changing the EQ will decalibrate the system as designed for the OEM speakers.

 

[SWallace]

Don't know if this helps, this is an unmodified acm from a 9 speaker shaker (no amp)

Big thanks man! I used this a lot when I was trying to compare. Still no dice though.

 

[SWallace]

Man, I really appreciate all of the effort on this!!! Seriously, you saved me a lot of leg work. Wish I could say I got it, but no dice yet. I changed each one, tried a few EQ variants, and a few variations on 727-01-01 xxxx xxxx Xxxx but it still does the same thing. I see a DSP module as well. I'm wondering if that has anything in it for me. I only see two hives to edit:

783-01-01: 2000 AC
783-02-01: 028F

I'm trying to find a 16 GT Coupe with the 9 speaker now to compare.

Alright. I did some searching, found two otherwise identically configured cars - EcoBoost Premium Perf Pack Automatics without Nav or Rear Park Assist. Only difference is color of paint and one is a fastback, the other a vert. Grabbed their window stickers to verify, and downloaded their as-built and loaded them into As-Built Compare. This is how you figure this stuff out if you want to do it on your own.

Specifically in the ACM (727) here are the differences I found.

• 727-01-01 xxxx Xxxx xxxx - D for the vert, F for the coupe. F150 spreadsheet says this is the difference between mast antenna and active antenna. I've never been around a vert, but I'm guessing you guys have an old school mast antenna? There's no visible antenna on the hardtop cars. I'd leave this alone to preserve radio functionality.
• 727-01-01 xxxx xxxx Xxxx - 6 for vert, 4 for coupe. F150 spreadsheet says 6 means "CC check for open & AAM present & Convertible & Chimes disabled" whereas 4 means "4=CC check for open & AAM present & non-Convertible & Chimes disabled" This is probably the one you want to change.
• 727-01-02 xXxx xx - 7 for vert, 2 for coupe. This is the EQ profile, I believe you already changed this to 0 for no EQ.
• 727-03-01 XXxx - 28 for vert, 4E for coupe. No data on this in the F150 spreadsheet. I would try the 9th character of 727-01-01 above, and only if that does nothing, try changing these two characters to match the hardtop.

And for what it's worth, I also loaded up a non-PP, non-nav EB Premium Fastback and it matched the PP car as far as ACM config goes.

ETA: one more thing, make sure the car is *completely* shut off and turned back on when you make these changes. It's tricky making ACM and APIM (Sync 3) changes, because when you turn the car off they stay powered on to run chimes, and show the shutdown splash screen. You need to shut the car off after making changes with FORScan, open the door, close it, and wait for the screen to go completely black for several seconds.

 

[SWallace]

I THINK I GOT IT!!!!!

In the DSP change 783-01-01:

FROM: 2000
TO: 0000

I need to take the car out and run it around but in the garage it sure does sound the same!

HUGE THANKS TO SPART AND QUACKFOO!!!

I'll check back in a couple of days to confirm This isn't my daily driver and the weather has been crap on the east coast lately.


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