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wireeater

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aham23

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Mishimoto baffled oil separator and coolant tank installed. Also put in the Redline Hood struts..not pictured though. Don't mind the coolant cap lol. Took some pliers to get that cap screwed all the way down :doh:

i am hearing the fitment is an issue with some of these and the OEM cap. that cap is an excellent one which is why most replacements aftermarket tanks use it. Hoping the quality on mine is good and it fits.
 

Labradog

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It feels weird writing this, but thankfully we have a few days break from the rain so I washed it.
 

Elvis66

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Very nice !! And what rotors did you go with?
 

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Elvis66

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Nice!!I picked up some stop tech rotors..hopefully we get another nice weekend. Gonna try to get them on
 
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40-130 pull I did yesterday. Flex tune only. Honestly comparing it to my 40-100 pull from months back before tune, I didn't really see a difference in the time it took to get to 40-100. I think the tune definitely helps more on the lower end though. I am also on base tune. Never got a revision.

http://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t50.2886-16/16837436_1672222683071066_1405879809732509696_n.mp4
Were you running E85? I was looking thorugh some logs and on the cruddy 93 octane we have now I can only muster 20-22 degrees of timing. With ~E70 I was getting around 29 degrees.
 

wireeater

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Were you running E85? I was looking thorugh some logs and on the cruddy 93 octane we have now I can only muster 20-22 degrees of timing. With ~E70 I was getting around 29 degrees.
Yep. Full tank of "E85" but it's Sheetz and probably winter blend right now. Feeling wise since switching (a few months now) you definitely feel a difference but when it comes to the actual pulls but timing it didn't really appear to be much. 40-100 on stock tune took about the same amount of time for 40-100 on E85. But that's probably right. In the 1/4 I think a E85 tune only adds a few extra MPH to the trap so you really wouldn't see a big difference on the speedo. But I can't compare anything before 40 or after 100. As you can see, with the E85 tune it steadily pulls past 100 though. :D
 

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wireeater

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What's the census on drilled rotors. I always heard that they only served visual purpose and made the rotors at higher risk for warping? I know slotted rotors serve a purpose. I mean, drilled looks so damn good though.
 

Elvis66

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Having drilled holes on a brake rotor makes it easy for heat, gas and water to be quickly moved away from the rotor surface, keeping the brake performance strong.Like HowStuffWorks on Facebook!
HowStuffWorks
AUTO
Toggle navigation
How Brake Rotors Work
BY JAMIE PAGE DEATON AUTO | BRAKE PARTS
Slotted Brake Rotors
PREVNEXT
Slotted brake rotors are great for high-performance braking; however, you'd better be ready to change the brake pads more often.
Slotted brake rotors are great for high-performance braking; however, you'd better be ready to change the brake pads more often.
BRENT MELTON/ISTOCKPHOTO
Slotted brake rotors u*se slots carved into the flat metal surface

to move gas, heat and water away from the surface of the rotors.




UP NEXT
How Brake Lines Work
Why do brake lines have so many bends and loops?
What are the different types of brake fluid?
How Brake Calipers Work
How Backing Plates Work
You can think of the slots as irrigation ditches that move the unwanted materials safely out of the way.

Slotted brake rotors are popular with performance car drivers because the type of driving they

do puts a lot of stress on the rotors. As we mentioned on the previous page, drilled rotors have been weakened, which makes them prone to cracking around the holes, particularly when they've been repeatedly driven hard. Because they tend to be a little more durable than the drilled brake rotors, slotted brake rotors may be a better brake part choice for some performance car drivers.

Of course, slotted brake rotors aren't perfect, either. They tend to wear down brake pads very quickly. Because of this, the most common type of performance brake rotors found on production performance cars are of the drilled variety. While that type of construction is seen as too weak for racing applications, most everyday drivers should have no trouble with drilled rotors on their street cars and can save the slotted rotors for cars that are racetrack-bound.
 
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AlyourPal

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Today I spent my tax refund check on the FRPP Borla touring axle back (already have an H pipe), GT350 steering wheel, and Power Pack Stage 2. Can't wait for it all to come in.

PS, i disagree with this ^ comment. I think that's what slots are for. Drilled holes are typically to increase surface area of the rotor, which helps it cool quicker. Hence why there is such a propensity for cracking around those holes, if not done properly or are low quality.
 

shelbywannabe

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What's the census on drilled rotors. I always heard that they only served visual purpose and made the rotors at higher risk for warping? I know slotted rotors serve a purpose. I mean, drilled looks so damn good though.
Years ago I had a Chevy HHR and every 6000 to 7000 miles I was taking it in as the rotors kept warping. I switched to drilled rotors and it never happened again so I cant say that was the case for me as it was the opposite.
They are not very expensive and some companies offer good warranties. I will definitely be putting them on my car when the stock set is done.
 

Jay159866

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I was looking at new front rotors for my car since the I smelled the breaks burning and started to fade one night. Non PP.. What are you guys running/suggest?
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