What's your Cylinder Head Temp?

[Livernois Motorsports]

in this platform the intercooler is below the radiator. a thicker/wider intercooler would be parallel with the bottom of the radiator. a if anything shouldnt a taller one obstuct flow? Not sure if there was a confusion on the platform but to me doesnt make sense since all of the thicker stock mount intercoolers are below it.

No confusion. This is actually something that has been spoken on by FR in a few aero videos.

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[5.0yote]

I'm pondering a radiator upgrade as I have the base model 1 inch radiator. However I need to establish a base line to determine if this is normal behavior or an indication of cooling capacity limits.

I'm running the following power train modifications for reference:

1. Levels Gen 3 Street IC
2. Boomba BOV
3. LMS 91 Octane Stage 3 v7 PCM software
4. Brisk RR14YS plugs
5. Green panel filter
6. LMS 160F Thermostat

Cylinder head temps some times hover around low / mid 170's during driving below 60mph, light load. Once I hit about 60 the upper portion of the grill shudders close and I hover around 180F~190F, which I would expect due to he lack of flow.

Now, when I step on it and start doing runs or driving hard on back roads, cylinder head temps are typically around 185~195. I have not yet reached 200 (stock car as it came off the lot would get up to about 210~215 just idling on hot days) even under sustained WOT with another passenger (about 400lbs total between the two of us).

I don't recall ever looking at cylinder head temps when I first got the car while driving WOT mostly because I was befuddled by the lack of power in 3rd gear the car used to have.

Rule of thumb (which I'm not a fan of, but it's all I have to go on) is that you can generally expect cylinder head / coolant temps to be 10 to 20 degrees above the thermostat set point. So I would generally expect cylinder head temps around 170~180. 190 seems a bit high based on that, but again I don't have a base line with EB engines. Any feedback is appreciated on what your all seeing, please list your modifications also so I have a general idea of how much power you car is putting out. Higher power modifications are going to inherently have higher losses.

Mine hovers 175 to 187 with stock not PP radiator, and Mishimoto IC.

 

[TheLion]

in this platform the intercooler is below the radiator. a thicker/wider intercooler would be parallel with the bottom of the radiator. a if anything shouldnt a taller one obstuct flow? Not sure if there was a confusion on the platform but to me doesnt make sense since all of the thicker stock mount intercoolers are below it.

Just dropped the coin on a Mishimoto performance radiator: http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishimoto-mustang-radiator-1516eco.html

Got it for $487 shipped. I'm up to $3k in total upgrades this year and this IS the last one, it's gotta stop some where and this is it. I was going to buy an oil cooler but I believe this is much more important at this point and here is why.

At this point I have come to following conclusion: LMS is correct about needing to upgrade the radiator to make the most out of higher powered cars. I'm not sure this is necessary with factory PCM software even if you upgrade the FMIC, especially since most have a PP radiator. It's about waste heat vs. cooling capacity. A tall FMIC will reduce cooling capacity, but the stock PP radiator is overkill for stock / near stock power levels when your just running at the strip / street / dd.

However I have a base model radiator with a large and tall FMIC (14 inches tall) and high performance PCM software. That temp rise of 35+ degrees above the set point tells me I've exceeded the cooling capacity of the radiator. Now it doesn't mean the car is going to continue getting hotter and hotter, however any additional thermal energy cannot be compensated for and will result in even higher operating temps. I've increased the car's thermal output while also decreasing the cooling capacity (by blocking) simultaneously on the weakest of radiator configurations...I'm surprised it's doing as well as it is.

If the radiator has remaining cooling capacity, then your temperature should stay regulated at the set point despite any additional load (aka the thermostat doesn't need to go wide open), to within just a few degrees. This is the behavior I have always observed from the 07 Focust ST 2.3L NA, not matter how much WOT, how hot it was out side etc, temps stayed pegged to within just a few degrees of the operating set point (with factory 180F thermostat it usually was right at about 195F). With the EB, once load decreases and I drive for a while temps will settle back down to about 170~175F (or unless it's on the highway and shudders are closed).

Once I get the radiator in (this weekend IF it comes in on Thursday / Friday as estimated), I will report back my results. Hopefully I didn't just waste $487...my BIG MOUTH ram air duct also comes week which I'll do at the same time. My goal is to enhance the reliability and power of the car as much as possible for street, strip and dd use. Track use is by far the most costly and probably not something I'm going to attempt any time soon (i'd need mucho upgrades in tires / brakes, nor do I have the time no desire to spend all that money to go once or twice a year to a track several hours away where as I have a drag strip and infinite country back roads all within an hour).

 

[Busser48]

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP2515-160

Someone was saying the therm u sell isn't even the right one? Or on the correct side. Can you elaborate? Because there are people running a dif them then what u offer, same idea in mind, but the correct one at that. Ty

 

[Rick B]

On my stone stock EBM with PP, at 55mph I get 187 degrees. Getting ready to install this 170 thermostat I've had for awhile, and see if it makes a difference. Bought it for my 14 GT Never installed it.

At what speed to the shutters close? And how do they actuate?

 

[Juben]

Riddle me this, right now I'm have a bolt-on PP car with a tall FMIC. I'm seeing temps stay right around the 180° mark (178° stock thermo) even under load and datalogging pulls.

If I installed your 160° unit, where do you think my coolant temps would sit, Livernois?

 

[ypena02]

I have yet to hear about an intercooler that affects coolant temps on these cars. Not even with the Wagner Evo 2 which is huge.

 

[Busser48]

I have yet to hear about an intercooler that affects coolant temps on these cars. Not even with the Wagner Evo 2 which is huge.

How does an intercooler affect coolant temps? I don't think that makes sense at all. The fmic affect charge air temps and your intake temps....

 

[ypena02]

How does an intercooler affect coolant temps? I don't think that makes sense at all. The fmic affect charge air temps and your intake temps....

By blocking airflow to the radiator hypothetically an intercooler can affect coolant temps. However, I have yet to hear about this occurring with these cars.

 

[Busser48]

Said with peace and love yomi, just trying to understand what u mean

 

[ypena02]

Said with peace and love yomi, just trying to understand what u mean

:cheers:

 

[Busser48]

By blocking airflow to the radiator

Huh? So stick replacing fmic don't block ge radiator at all

 

[Busser48]

:cheers:

Think about it though the bumper technically is blocking the radiator in some way shape or form correct? Even with no fmic at all. The benefites outweigh any negligible coolant blockage of temps from the fmic

 

[ypena02]

Huh? So stick replacing fmic don't block ge radiator at all

Stock replacement units don't but bigger cores like the wagner evo2, map race, levels race, etc do.

 

[Busser48]

Stock replacement units don't but bigger cores like the wagner evo2, map race, levels race, etc do.

I know, but like I was saying. Let's assume you take the fmic out, now you have the front bumper of the car that blocks air flow, so no matter what it's not worse than what already is, plus the way these things are designed, air flow gets in all those places we don't think it does

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