McLeod RXT - Clutch drag due to installer error?

[SD_GT]

I doubt the first mechanic needed to do anything with the transmission fluid.

You take it to JBA speed shop? Performance shop should know McLeod and whether there is anything different with yours.

Yeah, a friend on another forum said the same thing just now.

I didn't. I spoke to Tod extensively over the phone and he said to give this guy another shot since I've had a good relationship with him over the years. If not, bring it in next week and he'll get a tech on it. Awesome customer service from JBA.

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[mustang1]

JBA can't look at your car in the next day or two ? They don't necessarily need to do a repair, just give you a second opinion.

If they are busy, look at Whipple and Procharger websites, and do Dealer search and enter your zip code for other performance shops around you.

 

[SD_GT]

JBA can't look at your car in the next day or two ? They don't necessarily need to do a repair, just give you a second opinion.

If they are busy, look at Whipple and Procharger websites, and do Dealer search and enter your zip code for other performance shops around you.

I called a few authorized installers and the only one to answer/return my call was JBA. The tear down process started the moment I dropped off the car so unfortunately it's too late for me to move it around now.

I did however just speak to Billy at McLeod and he said it is indeed possible that the discs are too thick, but it's a very rare case. He said that if we continue to have issues to just send the unit in for inspection where they will determine if the clutch is indeed faulty. He also brought up the possibility of my hydraulics system going bad. I replaced the slave cylinder and my mechanic did say that my master cylinder is fine so it's down to either an improper install or a defective clutch unit from McLeod. I'm just happy to be narrowing the possibilities down at this point.

Also, thanks for all your help along the way Mustang1.

 

[mustang1]

... He also said that the pressure plates are too tight on the clutch discs (unable to fully retract) because the clutch discs are too thick and that this would cure itself over time as it breaks in.
...

that would be inconvenient if you have to send the clutch assembly back to McLeod. Clutch discs are too thick? Is this something mechanic can measure and then call McLeod and get the specs ?

 

[whatsup62]

I replaced the slave cylinder and my mechanic did say that my master cylinder is fine

Did you replace the crappy factory plastic line with a stainless line?

 

[SD_GT]

that would be inconvenient if you have to send the clutch assembly back to McLeod. Clutch discs are too thick? Is this something mechanic can measure and then call McLeod and get the specs ?

Yes, it can be measured with a "drill press" test I believe? That's what McLeod told me. I forgot to mention earlier that the other mechanic I went to for a second opinion did a test to see if the clutch was dragging and then said it wasn't. He popped it into first on a flat surface, pressed the clutch all the way in and the car went nowhere.

Did you replace the crappy factory plastic line with a stainless line?

I did not. Wouldn't a clutch line be something they would inspect as standard practice during the disassembly and reassembly process?

 

[SD_GT]

Was googling some things related to the RXT and noticed that a lot of people on the Corvette forums have experienced what I'm currently experiencing. Apparently it is very possible that the clutch discs are too thick amongst other QC issues. Not what I expected to hear about an otherwise well-respected company.

 

[mustang1]

mechanic should be able to measure the clutch plates with calipers, and then call McLeod and compare that to what they are supposed to be.

Is the shifter a problem when the engine is on or off, or both?

 

[SD_GT]

mechanic should be able to measure the clutch plates with calipers, and then call McLeod and compare that to what they are supposed to be.

Is the shifter a problem when the engine is on or off, or both?

Seems better when the car is off, IIRC.

 

[mustang1]

Seems better when the car is off, IIRC.

If its mainly a problem with the engine running, that does sound like clutch issue.

According to this posting, clutch drag is bad :


http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros

Clutch Drag is SERIOUS

To test is simple:
•With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
•Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
•Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
•Shift the car into 1st gear.
•Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move. If the vehicle moves forward or is hard to shift, check each of the following:

 

[SD_GT]

Yeah, I saw that article. Clutch drag is a quick and easy way to kill your transmission and I've done 250 miles.

 

[SD_GT]

Update -

Whatever he did worked. According to my mechanic, all he did was bleed the clutch line some more and test drive it every time till shifting became noticeably easier. It's much better now, as good as I remember it to be. As far as the new clutch goes, I noticed that it engages VERY high. Apparently this is common on the McLeod clutches. Shifts are buttery smooth once I'm rolling but starting from a dead stop is rough haha. Only thing left to take care of is a crank position sensor relearn. I guess my mechanic didn't do this because he didn't know it was necessary and in this regard I don't blame him since most Ford dealers aren't aware of it either unless you show them the TSB. I hope to get this done tomorrow to stop the random misfires and then finish the break-in period so that I can start enjoying the car again.

 

[daltron]

Update -

Whatever he did worked. According to my mechanic, all he did was bleed the clutch line some more and test drive it every time till shifting became noticeably easier. It's much better now, as good as I remember it to be. As far as the new clutch goes, I noticed that it engages VERY high. Apparently this is common on the McLeod clutches. Shifts are buttery smooth once I'm rolling but starting from a dead stop is rough haha. Only thing left to take care of is a crank position sensor relearn. I guess my mechanic didn't do this because he didn't know it was necessary and in this regard I don't blame him since most Ford dealers aren't aware of it either unless you show them the TSB. I hope to get this done tomorrow to stop the random misfires and then finish the break-in period so that I can start enjoying the car again.

Glad you got it fixed David!

Rev higher than normal and slip it and you will love it in stop and go traffic!

 

[SD_GT]

Glad you got it fixed David!

Rev higher than normal and slip it and you will love it in stop and go traffic!

Thanks, Jonathan! I hope to get the crank relearn done today. Hopefully a dealership can fit me in.

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