Will a 4" midrange fit in the door?

[StangTime]

I'm considering the Audiofrog 4" coaxial drivers to replace the factory 3.5" midrange. (disconnecting the A-pillar tweeters).
Not adverse to cutting the hole in the metal larger and making a custom spacer, but I am more concerned with how far out the driver can stick and if it might contact the door panel at either the tweeter or the outer edge of the driver. Anyone crammed a 4" driver in this space?

Audiofrog GS42 driver page: https://www.audiofrog.com/gs42-4-120mm-premium-grade-automotive-full-range-loudspeaker/

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[FreePenguin]

anything will fit, you can always dremmel out the hole to compensate any size, drill the holes you need and toss a rivet or mounting screws.

the only issue you cant compensate for is speaker height, before hits door panel.

but even then, I don't think there's much clearance, when I had my door panel off, the foam is like a millimeter thick around surrounding the speaker, (the padding to door panel)

 

[NotMarc]

If you can find the @ForTehNguyen build thread, I think he was trying to fit 4" Daytons in his 15 once upon a time. But I can barely remember that. Are you not worried about imaging? Not trying to dissuade you, just wondering the overall goal!

Good luck

 

[NotMarc]

Actually looks like you may have responded to that thread before but this is the post where he says he used them.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-custom-audio-build.29714/page-6#post-1609051

Also this:

Front 3.5" Midrange
Mounting Hole: 3" diameter
Spacer: 1" depth + .25" foam
Mounting Depth: 1.25"
Stock Magnet: 1 1/8" width

 

[StangTime]

Yes, I read through that whole thread on his install. I am actually considering the same drivers as he used. But... I have to do a custom passive crossover design because I am not planning on doing an active 3-way. Just too costly.
Very concerned with imaging. So the goal is to try and fix the misaligned positioning between the factory tweeter and the midrange and use the crossover to help adjust for this. Otherwise huge dips in the frequency response will occur in the upper frequencies. I have modeled it in software.
I was thinking to avoid the hassles of separate midrange, tweeter and crossover, I could use the Audiofrog GS42 and be done with it. Albeit, more difficult or maybe impossible to fit the GS42 in the midrange location.

Here is the frequency response using a custom passive 2-way crossover when using the SEAS H1396 tweeter (2nd order slope) and the ScanSpeak 10F-4424G00 (1st order slope) with their acoustic centers aligned (impossible to physically do this with separate components) the red line = midrange, the blue = tweeter, grey = On axis summed response.

Now we shift the tweeter in space to position it up on the A-pillar. Look what happens to the on-axis response (grey line). Comb filtering due to the change in distance causing phasing issues.
The green line is the "listening window" and is more likely to represent the overall frequency response we would hear in the car. Still not nearly as smooth as we would like. Further adjustments to the crossover components can help correct this or applying EQ.

This is my reason for wanting to use the GS42 coaxial driver. Improved imaging and less comb filtering, no crossover to design and build.

Thanks for those dimensions. I am going to draw it up in CAD and see if it's a possible fit.

 

[thill444]

There are some budget options for DSP. DSR1 is $202 at Best Buy now and the cable is $29. So for under $250 you have a solution. How many channels do you need for DSP? Another option is buying used on Ebay. Of course you need amps to drive everything too.

But if you really want the ability to control and tailor the sound to your liking DSP is the way to go. I am probably preaching to the choir.

 

[StangTime]

There are some budget options for DSP. DSR1 is $202 at Best Buy now and the cable is $29. So for under $250 you have a solution. How many channels do you need for DSP? Another option is buying used on Ebay. Of course you need amps to drive everything too.

But if you really want the ability to control and tailor the sound to your liking DSP is the way to go. I am probably preaching to the choir.

I realize DSP is the way to go. But I would rather not go down that rabbit hole. I want to just improve the front stage without throwing too much money at it. The Audiofrog won't fit so I will be going with the Scan Speak 4" mid, it will fit nicely.

 

[thill444]

I realize DSP is the way to go. But I would rather not go down that rabbit hole. I want to just improve the front stage without throwing too much money at it. The Audiofrog won't fit so I will be going with the Scan Speak 4" mid it will fit nicely.

Scan Speak is really good stuff. Many high end manufacturers use their drivers. I am interested in hearing how they sound.

 

[NotMarc]

I realize DSP is the way to go. But I would rather not go down that rabbit hole. I want to just improve the front stage without throwing too much money at it. The Audiofrog won't fit so I will be going with the Scan Speak 4" mid, it will fit nicely.

I'm on the same side of @thill444, as you may be able to tell from my signature or other posts. I was in your boat and was avoiding DSP because of price/complexity. I monitored Dayton's site and got the DSP 408 for $70 open box. It was best money I've spent on this car so far probably. If you have two tanks of gas money to spare, I'd set up the notification on their site for when they go in-stock and grab it. If I'm wrong PM me and I'll buy it off you so I can have a second.


https://www.parts-express.com/resto...-processor-for-home-and-car-audio--88-230-500
Just a thought.

 

[Adams]

I’m using a JL c-7 in that spot which fits tight already and it’s 3.5 inch. Rabbit hole or not, a DSP is a highly worthy investment, especially if you have audio knowledge which you seem to have. I’m using AudioControl Dm-608

 

[StangTime]

I’m using a JL c-7 in that spot which fits tight already and it’s 3.5 inch. Rabbit hole or not, a DSP is a highly worthy investment, especially if you have audio knowledge which you seem to have. I’m using AudioControl Dm-608

That's the thing about this car. There seems to be no in-between to fix the sound issues. Everything or nothing. Basically everything after the head unit needs replacing.

I think the best approach is to do this in stages. Simply because I can't afford to do everything. I will upgrade the speakers first and build my passive crossovers. Live with that for a while and if I'm still not happy, replace the factory amp altogether with a DSP amp that could fit in the factory location. Then add a sub and external amp in the rear.

 

[thill444]

That's the thing about this car. There seems to be no in-between to fix the sound issues. Everything or nothing. Basically everything after the head unit needs replacing.

I think the best approach is to do this in stages. Simply because I can't afford to do everything. I will upgrade the speakers first and build my passive crossovers. Live with that for a while and if I'm still not happy, replace the factory amp altogether with a DSP amp that could fit in the factory location. Then add a sub and external amp in the rear.

Buying in stages to meet your budget makes sense too. Have you thought about buying a decent set of component speakers to start as well? Even a 2 way setup to start with passive crossover? You can use Forscan to flatten the EQ

 

[StangTime]

Buying in stages to meet your budget makes sense too. Have you thought about buying a decent set of component speakers to start as well? Even a 2 way setup to start with passive crossover? You can use Forscan to flatten the EQ

I've been thinking way too much about options. Today I was pricing out the Hertz Mille Pro 2-way and 3-way systems. I have put Hertz speakers in 2 other vehicles and I really like the way they sound. I can get the 3-way system for $200 more than the 2-way, then I would have my midrange drivers. I'm leaning to spend a little more on the front speakers for now. The Mille Pro's are an excellent set that will sound great on the factory amp and will be even better with a DSP later on.

 

[thill444]

I've been thinking way too much about options. Today I was pricing out the Hertz Mille Pro 2-way and 3-way systems. I have put Hertz speakers in 2 other vehicles and I really like the way they sound. I can get the 3-way system for $200 more than the 2-way, then I would have my midrange drivers. I'm leaning to spend a little more on the front speakers for now. The Mille Pro's are an excellent set that will sound great on the factory amp and will be even better with a DSP later on.

100% agreed. Then you can always add an amp/DSP as phase 2.

I just finished my active 3 way build and it’s night and day better. The stock speakers are garbage. I just eliminated the center channel as it seems to cause more harm than good.

I like your approach.

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