Whipple tune pulling power at temp

[sigintel]

Are you stock base radiator or PP/GT350 rad?
I am running PP/GT350 rad.
My lower grill is removed.
Also, remove the battery cover, coping and rubber strip and pins.
This alone should get you 10F lower CHT.

Check current draw on IC pump?

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[Ruiner46]

I have the PP radiator that came with my car. I was thinking about removing the hood seal, but I really wanted to keep everything stock as possible. Hood seal, grill opening, etc, but it looks like I might have to mess with that stuff to keep my summer temps down. This car is strictly a fun daily for me and I don't care about track.

I'm going to make absolutely sure that none of the IC lines are kinked this weekend. I'm 100% sure that the IC pump is running. I'm don't know how to be sure that there isn't air in the lines though.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

There is no easy way to get an air bubble out if there is one, but to be honest its pretty hard to have one for any long period of time. when the car is completely cool after sitting overnight, pop off the fill cap of the intercooler fill spout, and top it off until there is coolant at least up to covering the in and outlets (not up to the smaller line connection, that's way too high).

Honestly if you really do suspect a bubble, best to drain it into a clean container and start over filling it. you always want to fill the system into the lowest spot, which is nicely designed as being the actual tank in the bumper area (sits just as low as your heat exchanger). What is VERY important is when you fill the system, you should really leave the tube that comes FROM the lower intercooler manifold at the motor (top tube of the 2 that connect there) and connects to the filler spout DISCONNECTED from the filler spout, and pointed into some sort of container. If you leave it connected and start to pour in coolant in the filler spout, itll go both into the overflow tank but also some will go towards the engine and intercooler, which will basically trap the air between the heat exchanger and intercooler. you want to fill down the one line going directly to the overflow tank and keep filling until coolant comes out that disconnected line. then connect it all back together and top off. This ensures you filled it from the bottom up, and the air should be forced out that disconnected line until its all completely filled.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

[MENTION=25894]Ruiner46[/MENTION]

You mind sharing that data in excel or are you just using that picture?

Strangely enough the Whipple tune itself has different values for the voltage conversion.

 

[Ruiner46]

Thanks for the info about filling the intercooler. I'll try a refill this weekend with the return line disconnected and I'll try to get the filler tube to be the highest point in the system by lifting it above the intercooler.

Here's an excel sheet I just threw together with the data I found. I had to zip it up since the forum doesn't accept excel files. I got the data from the HP Tuners forum in a post about the GT500 temp sensor. If you can see what whipple uses, it might be interesting to compare.

There was something posted in the HP Tuners forum about the whipple values, but from what I understand, those numbers were used as a calculation to determine IAT2 temp from the IAT1 sensor that is pre-intercooler.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

LOL thats my post, I am 06300 on the hptuners forum.

I verified those are the actual conversion numbers used by the tune, not just the inferred values for switching to MCT mode

 

[Ruiner46]

Lol, ok so are the numbers I used correct, or is it the others? I'm not sure I'm reading your post correctly.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

Youre good with either one, they are about 5-8* from each other, only really gets massively different at the 250*F + range. I believe the differences have to do with expected heat soak of the sensor in the GT500 versus the 2.9L whipple on the s550.

 

[mustang1]

...
Check current draw on IC pump?

Can you measure current draw on the IC pump and infer if cooling is working properly? If Voltage is constant, then if resistance on the pump is too high or too low, current will reflect that.

 

[Ruiner46]

Youre good with either one, they are about 5-8* from each other, only really gets massively different at the 250*F + range. I believe the differences have to do with expected heat soak of the sensor in the GT500 versus the 2.9L whipple on the s550.

Ok, well I graphed both and revised my excel file above. Here's a graph of the differences.

I'm hoping the Whipple MCT data is the more accurate one because it would mean my temps are a bit lower than I thought. It's over a 10 degree delta in some areas.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

i would use Whipple data, thats my plan.

Still havent figured out how to get this into a formula format to log directly, need to play with the regression formulas

 

[TooSoonJunior]

These are the MCT values in my tune, which if I apply a 6 order polynomial, this would be the conversion of volts to temp, its almost spot on (within a few degrees of the entire curve):

y = 0.5715x^6 - 11.332x^5 + 86.098x^4 - 321.58x^3 + 620.13x^2 - 613.95x + 379.24

V °F
0.144999996 302
0.206 275
0.382999986 230
0.497000009 180
0.845000029 152
1.5 126
1.899999976 111
2.5 93
3.799999952 50
4.179999828 32
4.570000172 5
4.900000095 -40

 

[Ruiner46]

6th order seems way too crazy. Also, your range of temps is way outside what you will see in real world conditions. I think you should concentrate on maximum accuracy in the 50-150F range or so. I took your data and trimmed off the temps above 180 and below 32.

The 3rd order equation I get is:
y = -3.672x^3 + 27.842x^2 - 97.343x + 220.09

With a R² = 0.9988, so it should be pretty accurate in that range.

So, since I got my Whipple data from your HPTuners thread, where did that data come from? Why is your tune different? They are all really close, but your latest curve is way more non-linear than the previous two curves.

 

[TooSoonJunior]

Yep that's smart, I will try 3rd order later this weekend in my logs.

No idea why my values are different than other but I know my calibration is from Feb of this year so it's the latest and greatest.

 

[moffetts]

What are your IAT1s? I am having heat issues (including substantial power reduction) with my car but I think it's caused by my high IAT1s, which are in the 150-170 range during the day. Unfortunately I got my Whipple going right before a heat wave, so I'm not sure what all I can do about this until it gets cooler.

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