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What should i list for

danny0441

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So im thinking about listing my car for sale and im wondering what would be a good list price for my car kbb tells me private party is about 27.5k thats not counting the oem upgrades car has and i know kbb is rarely accurate so main question would be what would people pay

Base 2015 mustang gt ( DIB ) 17xxx miles in almost perfect condition
Auto trans
Recaro seats
Ford racing catback
Upgraded to premium rear valance due to a minor rear end collision
Oem performance pack front lip
Eibach lowering springs
Velgen vmb7 staggered with nt555 g2 285/35/20 rear 255/35/20 front
Sale will include stock wheels and tires and stock springs




Again this is not a sale post its just a general question as to what i should list for if i decide too
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Lost

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If you can get over 27 for a base almost 4 year old GT, more power to ya!
 
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danny0441

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Kbb says thats private party resale like i said i take that with a big grain of salt
 

bbudman

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The very best way to gauge your asking price is to go on Autotrader and see what vehicles similar to yours are selling for in your area. If your search doesn't return a lot of hits expand it out 100 miles and try again.

A few things to remember are:

Asking price and selling price are two different things, but this at least gets you in the ball park as to a place to start.

Aftermarket parts regardless of OEM will not give you a return on investment. Selling your wheels,tires, and lowering springs, putting the factory ones back on will most likely net you more cash in the end.

You stated, "minor rear end collision" and replacement valance. Was insurance involved and does it show up on Carfax? If so, that could affect your asking price drastically. Something as simple cosmetic damage in your eyes will most likely be imagined much worse in the buyers eyes!

Hope this helps! :thumbsup:
 
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danny0441

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The very best way to gauge your asking price is to go on Autotrader and see what vehicles similar to yours are selling for in your area. If your search doesn't return a lot of hits expand it out 100 miles and try again.

A few things to remember are:

Asking price and selling price are two different things, but this at least gets you in the ball park as to a place to start.

Aftermarket parts regardless of OEM will not give you a return on investment. Selling your wheels,tires, and lowering springs, putting the factory ones back on will most likely net you more cash in the end.

You stated, "minor rear end collision" and replacement valance. Was insurance involved and does it show up on Carfax? If so, that could affect your asking price drastically. Something as simple cosmetic damage in your eyes will most likely be imagined much worse in the buyers eyes!

Hope this helps! :thumbsup:[/QUOTE

Accident was very minor a small dent in the bumper insurance was involved thankfully i have detailed pictures of repair and the damage as well as all receipts done by a ford dealership i know it will still affect the value but i figure
It wont be as bad thanks for your insight
 

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hemistar1

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Selling my dib too

Hi..I just posted a similar query for my 15 GT pp..carmax offered 24k today..I paid about 30 new..I have seen private party go for 25 to 27..No accidents for mine but more miles 28 k than yours. I have the rear Roush valance as well.. I am, thinking I will take there offer and get something new next year or start saving for the GT500.
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Danman

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If the Carfax shows an accident then that will lower the selling price.
 

Rock&Roll

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If KBB is $27.5k I’d ask $27k and let them talk you down a couple grand. If your car was in a accident it’s not worth that amount IMO. You should try to sell any mods you can seperately cause they’re not worth anything. Most people want it stock.


Good luck
 

ctandc72

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Black Book Value - Trade in Value...this will give you an idea.
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Cobra Jet

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Black Book Value - Trade in Value...this will give you an idea.
Excellent post!

Not many folks realize that Dealerships use Black Book values when offering “trade in” values to Consumers. Most people think “Blue Book”, but that’s wrong because everyone has to make money on the deal, including the Dealer and the Lending Institutions who also use Black Book.

There’s also a Red Book for those who don’t know...

And finally, there’s also “ACV” values for when a car is totaled out, which is the basis of what an Ins. Co. will offer as a payout to the affected customer - because again, everyone has to make money on the deal... Ins. Co. will make money on the auction or direct sale of the totaled wreck, as will the parts dismantler who bought it.
 

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BlownGP

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27K is a good start but many are selling for less than that at dealers. I think the lines are blurred between private party and dealer.


Used car prices is a weird market. Most people won't pay 38K for low miles 2017 GT Premium but there's always that one DUMB sucker. lol
 

1mic

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24k is a good price, especially if its been in an accident.
 

PJR202

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Kbb says thats private party resale like i said i take that with a big grain of salt

Someone may have already said this, but why would you take KBB with a grain of salt when potential buyers are going there to see what it says?
 

Hashbrownn

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If I was a buyer..
I wouldn't pay more than $20-$22k on a 4 year old base GT that's been in a collision.
Take all that aftermarket parts off... I may pay up to $22-23k without the aftermarket parts
 

ctandc72

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Someone may have already said this, but why would you take KBB with a grain of salt when potential buyers are going there to see what it says?
The consumer version of KBB and NADA are just that - the consumer versions. So if you are selling a car to another private party - should work okay. I can't tell you how many people were "shocked" when they went to get financing (bank, credit union etc) for a privately owned car they wanted, they quoted the KBB or NADA book value and the loan officer quotes a different number.

Trade in value - same thing. Black book data is garnered state by state and uses auction (Dealer auctions mainly) to assess trade in value.

If a dealer give you KBB or NADA top trade in value, they either already have a buyer lined up or they are getting that "extra" back somewhere in the deal.

Example - co worker traded in a car he'd only had for less than a year. He told me how he got the new car for $5K off sticker. When I asked him the total amount financed he looked at me oddly. Turns out with the negative equity he had in his trade, he ended up essentially paying sticker price for his new car and now he's starting all over with a new note on a car that already has more negative equity than his last setup.

I don't give advice or judge other peoples' finances. This is a Mustang forum not financial advice forum. If you believe everything you read on the internet, 80% of posters pay cash for everything and have no debt. For those who are actually in this situation - congrats - it's no easy feat unless you are making huge salaries and don't have a family.

Also - KBB and NADA does not take into account demand of a certain vehicle in a certain region. Look up the Black Book value on a Subaru in the NE versus the same car in FL (outside of hi performance versions) and you might be shocked at the difference.

Not to mention the value drop on models replaced by newer models not to mention supply and demand affected by many external factors.

Another example I have first hand experience with - when gas prices spiked a few years ago, tons of people started trading in full size SUVs for smaller cars and smaller SUVs. Many times trading in a paid off vehicle or one they didn't owe much on - for a more fuel efficient vehicle that the ended up owing a lot more money on. Rarely did these trade in's make any actual financial sense. It happened so often around here, many local dealerships were offering ridiculously low trade in amounts on these full size SUVs.

Some people I know went in together and ended up buying 6 or so full size SUV (think Suburban, Tahoe etc) for what these dealers had in them - sometimes offering private sellers a bit more than the dealerships offered. Knowing that gas prices would come back down and the value of these SUVs would come back up. They did on both accounts.

Most of these vehicles garned $3-7K in profit when sold months later.
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