So car is lowered 1” all the way around and there definitely is preload on sway bars now with stock end links. With the car being lowered I will do that process but start with new links around a 1/2” shorter or a little shorter than stock because based on location and geometry of suspension, where the sway bars are located inboard of wheel hub I don’t think the drop of 1” is at the links. Hope that makes sense as far as initial setting. Since I do all my work on car in driveway, with the wheels off car and up on Jack stands, I can duplicate a loaded suspension by jacking up lower control arms to lift car off Jack stands a little bit and adjust end links as you described insuring the loose link stud moves freely.Awesome
Are you lowering the car? This matters, because depending on how much it's lowered if you are lowering, it may affect how much you need to adjust the endlinks.
Otherwise, first, what you want to do is adjust each endlink's length till they're equal to the stock endlinks.
Next, install one end of the endlink into the strut and the other into the sway bar. For the rear, one end into the sway bar, the other end into the spring bucket.
At this point, you want to make sure the endlink stud is going into the holes of the sway bar and strut endlink bracket or rear spring bucket, passing through relatively freely - the amount of adjustment you may or may not have to do to achieve this, depends on if you're lowering, and how low.
Then, for front - tighten the endlink nut on the strut. For rear, tighten the endlink nut on the sway bar. Begin to tighten (but leave loose somewhat) the nut on front sway bar, and the nut on rear spring bucket.
Last, put wheels on, lower the car. Now, check how freely endlink studs pass through the holes on remaining ends that are still loose.
Adjust length if necessary. Fully tighten remaining loose nuts.
What this last step does is prevents sway bar pre-load (adding tension to the bar) which is not desirable in most cases, especially a street car. Loading the suspension makes this adjustment as accurate as possible.
I was impressed with the amount of shit you got for this post and wanted in on a bit of the action …Wrapped my prop rod in tesa tape. No more burned fingers for me. (Yes I know I can buy hood struts but I don't want to)
). It’s as tight as it can be getting it over her knuckle, but it will still turn when it’s in place (it’s got a big rock 
) due to her fingers and knuckles looking like Dumbledores wand …
The Steeda endlinks can be adjusted shorter than stock, but it's not a huge amount shorter than stock I notice, so look for this when you're installing and adjusting.
Yup,
I actually forgot to type out what I do is have 2 sets of ramps, but your method also obviously worksSo this is a good question. It's called the sway bar "nominal position", and essentially, the sway bar's flat area where you mount that end of the endlink into the holes located there - to your point, some sway bars rotate freely in their bushings, some don't. As a result, the flat area will be seen to rotate upward or downward. Usually, the sway bar should come to rest in it's nominal position and you use that as a reference. A good idea is to take a pic before unbolting the stock components, and use this as a reference when putting stuff back together, in case the sway bar does rotate up or down.
Haha that hood rod prop mod is awesome! I liked Ice445's, this is also good tooI was impressed with the amount of shit you got for this post and wanted in on a bit of the action …
I tried a bit of silicon ring adjustment wrap. We needed to buy some for my misses ring (on her finger
Anyhow, this came with the kit and I’m not sure how big of a ring band it was intended for, but it works perfectly and looks neat on the hood prop :
WD
Yes sir just a cheap one off eBay! I got it for like $87! The main reason is because it is fully open on the air intake side!
the latter. manufacturing plants in country contribute to the economy. The former is just an accounting gimick and the profits are banked in the other country (or Ireland/Netherlands) in a fantastic rigging of corporate accounting.
generally speaking, yes. While you can obviously get close in the driveway, just go visit a wheel-alignment guy and while he's in there fixing your alignment loosen and adjust rod lengths.
At least it had 6MT.
Did Mik say something about his charger and cleaning all cars, or was it BMW related regarding the unclean feeling he gets?I know it’s not a Mustang but I know what Mik said, it’s time to take care of the other car. So my wife got the love today. Glass to the ass. Look at the reflection on the hood. Just the second coat.
Great pics , I always get left out at these things . Do you happen to have any pics of the Lotes parked next to the Lambo ?washed/spray wax and went to show off my detailing "prowess"
and this guy showed up and took all the air out of my braggadocio.
and to rub more salt into the wound for good measure:
guy on left is a M6G member. (He can out himself if he wants.)
And talk about 'air-cooled' snobbery
how long did install take? Fitment seem decent?