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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

HavasuCat

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I replaced my passenger side front end link and the damn car is still clunking. Honestly pissed. I've no fraking idea what is going on but I'm gonna try disconnecting the new sway bar from the new end link, tying the link to the strut and driving around again to see if anything changes.

This is honestly the most frustrating experience I've had working on a car. I don't understand how or why this is happening? I don't think I've done anything wrong! Am I suppose to load the suspension or something to install it properly? What does loading it even mean for this? I'm just at a loss with this.

Standard practice it to place a jack under wherever you are going to tighten a rubber/urethane isolated joint, bring the jack up to raise that part of the suspension off the jack stand before tightening the pivot. What this does is place the suspension in it's natural state where it'll be driven.
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K-Roll302

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Standard practice it to place a jack under wherever you are going to tighten a rubber/urethane isolated joint, bring the jack up to raise that part of the suspension off the jack stand before tightening the pivot. What this does is place the suspension in it's natural state where it'll be driven.
Does that mean since I didn't do this when installing the new end link that I actually didn't install it properly and that I need to jack the strut up by the disc and try again? I shouldn't have to remove it entirely but just loosen and re-tighten it??

I'm not exactly sure how to do the standard practice in my driveway.
 

Dr. Norts

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Does that mean since I didn't do this when installing the new end link that I actually didn't install it properly and that I need to jack the strut up by the disc and try again? I shouldn't have to remove it entirely but just loosen and re-tighten it??

I'm not exactly sure how to do the standard practice in my driveway.
Yea that will work just fine. Leave the suspension unloaded and loosen the 2 mounting bolts on the end links. Then Jack up your suspension to approx where it would be loaded to when the car is on the ground and torque those 2 back down.

Also I remembereally reading a post a few days back posted by BMR I belive on how the wheel bearing hold down nuts are torqued all over the map. This could maybe possible be related to the clunking if the end link didn't fix it.
 

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K-Roll302

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Yea that will work just fine. Leave the suspension unloaded and loosen the 2 mounting bolts on the end links. Then Jack up your suspension to approx where it would be loaded to when the car is on the ground and torque those 2 back down.

Also I remembereally reading a post a few days back posted by BMR I belive on how the wheel bearing hold down nuts are torqued all over the map. This could maybe possible be related to the clunking if the end link didn't fix it.
I'll give it a go, but how will I know at what point the suspension is loaded close to when the car is on the ground though? I can load it to full compression easily but this will be a wild guess I believe.
 

GT Pony

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I'll give it a go, but how will I know at what point the suspension is loaded close to when the car is on the ground though? I can load it to full compression easily but this will be a wild guess I believe.
Before re-tightening, lower the wheels on some car ramps so all the weight is on the suspension.
 

AttiS550

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Put Stance SC-1 wheels on the car. 20x9 & 20x10.5 with MPSS 275/35/20 & 295/35/20

 

Bob_Whit

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Actually did it yesterday. Put on the SVE wheels W/Nitto 555 G2 tires & the GT350 rear spoiler, had to wash it today for pics.
 

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JasonS1974

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what company did the ceramic coat and how much did they charge?

how long does it last?

does the coating stand up to a mechanical car wash?
Dynamic Detailing in Santa Carla did the work. It was $1450, but that included:
- Ceramic Pro 9H silver package (5 year warranty), which included paint correction
- I had the barrels of the wheels coated in addition to the faces to help with the brake dust
- Interior detail.

Should last a good long time so long as I maintain it properly.

Mechanical car washes are not recommended. I assume you were talking about the car washes that spin those harsh brushes against the body. Any hand car wash is fine, so long as you use soap with no waxes.

That's one of the benefits of getting a coating, car washes should take half as long and the car will just blow dry completely as the water should just bead off.
 

BigHo

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ronnieb1958

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Dynamic Detailing in Santa Carla did the work. It was $1450, but that included:
- Ceramic Pro 9H silver package (5 year warranty), which included paint correction
- I had the barrels of the wheels coated in addition to the faces to help with the brake dust
- Interior detail.

Should last a good long time so long as I maintain it properly.

Mechanical car washes are not recommended. I assume you were talking about the car washes that spin those harsh brushes against the body. Any hand car wash is fine, so long as you use soap with no waxes.

That's one of the benefits of getting a coating, car washes should take half as long and the car will just blow dry completely as the water should just bead off.

yes, i was speaking of the mechanical washes...i figured if the coating was anti-abrasion it should be able to stand up to it...nevertheless, it looks great.
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