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Steeds its support bushings and diff bushings red

RSKTAKR

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ok update.. finished the install. I lossened up the rear sub frame bolts about 5 turns. got a little bit more room but still not enough. The easiest way for me to get these front bushings in was to put the bolt into the washer and bushing BUT the end (non head end) is FLUSH with the part of the bushing that is going INTO the stock bushing, you get the center of the steeda bushing past the lip of the stocker, then push the bolt in. This still doesn't give you the clearance you will need, you have push the steeda bushing UP with your hands or a hammer and screw driver. The head of the bolt will scratch up the plastic of the gas tank, but it will go in eventually.. the drivers side I just had to tap with a hammer and it went in lots easier. For those of you that also didn't get the grease I just loaded lots of Vaseline in there before I pushed all the steeda bushings in. I recommend a OPEN end 7/8" wrench because you cant get a closed end up there when you start tightening those front bushings. Hope this helps! End result is NO noise, NO knocking around or anything, and it hooks up GOOD!
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Todd15Fastback

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ok update.. finished the install. I lossened up the rear sub frame bolts about 5 turns. got a little bit more room but still not enough. The easiest way for me to get these front bushings in was to put the bolt into the washer and bushing BUT the end (non head end) is FLUSH with the part of the bushing that is going INTO the stock bushing, you get the center of the steeda bushing past the lip of the stocker, then push the bolt in. This still doesn't give you the clearance you will need, you have push the steeda bushing UP with your hands or a hammer and screw driver. The head of the bolt will scratch up the plastic of the gas tank, but it will go in eventually.. the drivers side I just had to tap with a hammer and it went in lots easier. For those of you that also didn't get the grease I just loaded lots of Vaseline in there before I pushed all the steeda bushings in. I recommend a OPEN end 7/8" wrench because you cant get a closed end up there when you start tightening those front bushings. Hope this helps! End result is NO noise, NO knocking around or anything, and it hooks up GOOD!
Glad you got them in there and the results are good. Time to enjoy the :D

Did you got with the black or red ones? I forgot.

EDIT - I see you put in the aluminum ones. Damn..,no noise?
 

RSKTAKR

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Glad you got them in there and the results are good. Time to enjoy the :D

Did you got with the black or red ones? I forgot.

EDIT - I see you put in the aluminum ones. Damn..,no noise?
Nope, ZERO noise.
 

Jmeo

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Nope, ZERO noise.

Well then looks like I'm going red. Thanks for your posts guys. Will tackle mine in the next few weeks I hope.

Jaime


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Choking_Victim

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Thanks for the update...so open end 7/8th gotcha..so you basically just have to get these bolts good and tight?..since no way in hell to torque them from looks of shit.
 

jbailer

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Congrats RSKTAKR, glad you get them in! That's fantastic you got no noise with the aluminum bushings! I wimped out and went with the red just to be safe.
 

dwaleke

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I installed the black ones and the gear noise is louder.

I agree with the couple reports above of increased nvh. At slow speeds you can hear and feel the torsen doing it's thing. Also sounds and feels like there is a lot of slop in the drive train. It was probably hidden by the soft bushings.

The thud is no longer a thud. It's more of a clunk now. My girlfriend asks what's wrong with the car. Is it broken?

The improvement in reduced hop is very nice. Immediately notice less hop.
 

Todd15Fastback

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I installed the black ones and the gear noise is louder.

I agree with the couple reports above of increased nvh. At slow speeds you can hear and feel the torsen doing it's thing. Also sounds and feels like there is a lot of slop in the drive train. It was probably hidden by the soft bushings.

The thud is no longer a thud. It's more of a clunk now. My girlfriend asks what's wrong with the car. Is it broken?

The improvement in reduced hop is very nice. Immediately notice less hop.
Thanks for the feedback.

Is the increased NVH more pronounced at slow speeds vs. cruising/highway speeds?
 

dwaleke

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All the clunking and Torsen action is only at slow speeds.

You can hear some gear noise while cruising. Go off throttle and it's quiet. Get on throttle just a bit and then it whines.
 

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Todd15Fastback

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All the clunking and Torsen action is only at slow speeds.

You can hear some gear noise while cruising. Go off throttle and it's quiet. Get on throttle just a bit and then it whines.
Thanks again! I am going with black, too.

Hope to get them installed in the next couple of weeks.
 

Choking_Victim

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Still waiting on a video from steeda as mentioned.. will the sub frame still droop with bushings supports already installed ? For the guys loosening the rear as well, is that screwing the alignment? Reason I ask is I had exhaust off to attempt this bushing install. ..but couldn't understand what part of the subframe they want supported and was u sure if it would droop since I have bushing support kit already installed. Anyhow I just ended up doing vertical links and support braces and didn't do diff bushing yet.
 

dwaleke

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Still waiting on a video from steeda as mentioned.. will the sub frame still droop with bushings supports already installed ? For the guys loosening the rear as well, is that screwing the alignment? Reason I ask is I had exhaust off to attempt this bushing install. ..but couldn't understand what part of the subframe they want supported and was u sure if it would droop since I have bushing support kit already installed. Anyhow I just ended up doing vertical links and support braces and didn't do diff bushing yet.
Any time you drop the rear subframe you will probably require an alignment.

That is unless you have a consistent method of aligning the subframe (Steeda Alignment pins, BMR lockout kit, etc) when reinstalling it.
 

Choking_Victim

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Any time you drop the rear subframe you will probably require an alignment.

That is unless you have a consistent method of aligning the subframe (Steeda Alignment pins, BMR lockout kit, etc) when reinstalling it.
I understand, and I do have alignment dowls from steeda. I was waiting till I do springs to install those as I knew I'd need an alignment. Was curious cuz I lowered one side at a time during support bushing install to avoid mandatory alignment per the instructions. So there is no way to install the diff bushings without lowering the rear of the sub frame ?
 

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I understand, and I do have alignment dowls from steeda. I was waiting till I do springs to install those as I knew I'd need an alignment. Was curious cuz I lowered one side at a time during support bushing install to avoid mandatory alignment per the instructions. So there is no way to install the diff bushings without lowering the rear of the sub frame ?

No and you actually only loosen both rear bolts but remove both front bolts to lower the entire front of the subframe (left & right) at the same time.


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