Steeda Camber plate, Max camber -2.6

[galaxy]

Having had a few K members off and on, I personally don’t see how the front could be off by enough to really make a difference. It’s not like the rear cradle bolt holes where there’s tons of room for possible movement. That thing can be off quite a bit. But the front K member bolt holes are only big enough for the attachment bolts to go through. I don’t see where any adjustment can be done.

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[NightmareMoon]

Update:
I finally got a response from the Steeda technicians. I am told that one possible cause of the issue I’m having, the passenger side pushed all the way in and only achieving - 2.6 camber, can be caused by the front cradle, not being aligned perfectly.
I then spoke with my local service shop that has been doing the work on my Mustang. He indicated that some Mustang front cradles are pinned in place and others are not. He explained if the S550 front cradle is pinned in place trying to realign it will not be of any help. Can anyone confirm if our front cradle is pinned in place?
It seems to makes sense to me that if the cradle is slightly offset, it would cause this phenomenon. The technician at my local shop said as long as the alignment is correct a slightly off center cradle will not have a deleterious effect on the performance handling of the car. Is that truly the case?
At this point I’m going to the track with -2.7 camber up front and see if I have understeer issues. If I do, I’ll take it back in, loosen up the front cradle, align it properly to get maximum camber out of both sides. Which should be -3 or better based on everyone else’s experience.
Please weigh in if you know any of this to be crap.
thanks

You never posted a picture. Send a picture of the strut tower with the least camber, then we might be able to help.

 

[Bossdog]

Having had a few K members off and on, I personally don’t see how the front could be off by enough to really make a difference. It’s not like the rear cradle bolt holes where there’s tons of room for possible movement. That thing can be off quite a bit. But the front K member bolt holes are only big enough for the attachment bolts to go through. I don’t see where any adjustment can be done.

I found this thead, seems front K member alignment is a possible solution to my problem.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/front-subframe-k-member-centering.121140/

 

[Bossdog]

You never posted a picture. Send a picture of the strut tower with the least camber, then we might be able to help.

sorry, I’ll try and post pics tomorrow

 

[Bossdog]

You never posted a picture. Send a picture of the strut tower with the least camber, then we might be able to help.

here are the passenger side and drivers side.
two issues:
1) the tech adjusting couldn’t get the passenger side to move past the point it is in the pic couldn’t move closer to the strut tower opening edge so max neg camber is 2.6.

2) the pass side is 1/2 inch from Center of strut to opening wall. The driver side is 1 inch from wall. Driver side moves all the way inward to opening edge for -3.0 as expected/intended. Tech put driver side to match pass side at -2.6 ( 1 inch from opening edge)
Both camber measurements are -2.6. Seemed odd to me and I was concerned something g was wrong , perhaps I installed some of the parts incorrectly. The Steeda tech shared that this was not uncommon and the re-centering the cradle would solve that. My local alignment specialist told me he could do that but it would not change the performance, only cost a bunch more money to loosen, adjust cradle and then redo the alignment.

So the problem remains I can’t get the pass side strut to move inward past the point that is is at now.

Driver side (works correctly)

Passenger side, Won't move toward opening edge any further this pictured

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