Recommendations on a new short block?

[Kennysum1]

So I took the dummy route and did not upgrade my oil pump gears and sprocket. Needless to say do this upgrade if you are doing any kind of decent modding.

Now I am in the market for a new short block. Just reaching out on here to see if anyone has any recommendations.

Current setup is a TT Hellion sleeper kit, E85, tuned by Lund. Was pushing upwards of 1k HP (hence the shit breaking).

So what do you experienced Mustang pros recommend for this HP range and setup type? Was looking at the 9.5:1 CR Aluminator but really do not need the entire crate engine.

Open to recommendations and stuff. Thanks!

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[wazslow]

You may want to consider a sleeved block if your are going to be making 1000+hp. Look at TKM, L&M, FFRE, RPG and see what they offer. I wouldn't drop the compression if your going to be running E85.

 

[Stephen@lethal]

I assume your block is toast? If not, I would just take it and get it honed and sleeved and be good to go, even if the sleeves have a bit of damage, most engine builders can bore it out a bit. If its not usable, MPR would be the route I went. TKM is another solid builder that built my short block with Darton sleeves. If you have any questions about either, feel free to shoot me a message anytime. Lethalperformance.com

 

[BrianH87]

Can you even bore a PTWA cylinder?

 

[White_Bear_92]

Can you even bore a PTWA cylinder?

Negative. It's about the thickness of a human hair.

 

[engineermike]

You can buy aluminator short blocks.

 

[TexasMetallic5.0]

Whichever builder you go with, go with the higher compression offering.

 

[Kennysum1]

Ended up just going with RPGs Level 2 Shortblock 12:1 CR. Seems like the most reputable and people kept recommending them.

 

[larr12]

@Kennysum1 i think that's a solid choice.

 

[EFI]

Can you even bore a PTWA cylinder?

You sure can, but then you need to sleeve that cylinder with a steel liner for it to become usable again.

 

[NASteve]

Negative. It's about the thickness of a human hair.

You know this for a fact? Human hair is about .003"

 

[Kennysum1]

Well no matter how thick something is I went with the RPG stage 2 shortblock. Going to get it dialed in at the 1200 HP mark and switch to a TH400.

After that I plan on sleeving the block and changing the rods out for the I beams to take it beyond 1200 safely.

But first I want to get it dialed in and running consistently at the 1200 hp mark before any further building.

 

[NASteve]

Well no matter how thick something is I went with the RPG stage 2 shortblock. Going to get it dialed in at the 1200 HP mark and switch to a TH400.

After that I plan on sleeving the block and changing the rods out for the I beams to take it beyond 1200 safely.

But first I want to get it dialed in and running consistently at the 1200 hp mark before any further building.

Build it for the power you plan on now because changing rods out isn't as simple as you make it sound and requires a rebalance due to I-beam being lighter than H-beams. Sleeving is going to be your best bet for the power you have in mind because even stock blocks will be done around 1200hp. Complete sleeved shortblock is about $10k give or take the components used, be one and done with it instead of changing out parts as you go, saves you money and a lot of down time.

 

[wazslow]

Well no matter how thick something is I went with the RPG stage 2 shortblock. Going to get it dialed in at the 1200 HP mark and switch to a TH400.

After that I plan on sleeving the block and changing the rods out for the I beams to take it beyond 1200 safely.

But first I want to get it dialed in and running consistently at the 1200 hp mark before any further building.

If you are going to make 1200hp, I would absolutely have the block sleeved.

 

[Kennysum1]

Build it for the power you plan on now because changing rods out isn't as simple as you make it sound and requires a rebalance due to I-beam being lighter than H-beams. Sleeving is going to be your best bet for the power you have in mind because even stock blocks will be done around 1200hp. Complete sleeved shortblock is about $10k give or take the components used, be one and done with it instead of changing out parts as you go, saves you money and a lot of down time.

If you are going to make 1200hp, I would absolutely have the block sleeved.

The sleeves are back ordered at least a month as of right now and TKM among others could not give me a ETA on when they would be able to produce a sleeved block.

RPG warranties the engine for 1 year at 1200hp. So should anything go wrong in that time frame that is on them. Plus that gives me plenty of time to get the suspension dialed in and the car running consistently around the 1150-1200 range.

Every builder I spoke with agreed that the block is fine up to the 1200 mark but no further. But like I said should it go out before that that is what the warranty is for and the reason I did not go with the sleeved version (among not being able to get one).

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