Q about front spacers

[Trace]

It's your car sir, do as you please. I wouldn't.

I've run spacers on a lot of vehicles. I have several sets in my barn still.

But I don't have the confidence in the spacer/connector that I have in the true spacer. Not on a race track.

Agree to disagree ;)

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[robvas]

So how many have you broken yourself?

Besides, people break them at the studs the spacer itself (because they put them on wrong)

 

[Trace]

I haven't broken any.

I also haven't drowned scuba diving and spearfishing after literally thousands of pounds of spear kill. But people have.

I haven't rolled a boat hull at over 100 mph even though I've been there in mine. But people have.

I haven't wrecked a motorcycle after 51 years of riding. But plenty of people have.

I'm careful. Which is why I wouldn't track my car with bolt on spacers.

I don't want to argue with you anymore. There's plenty out there published about this subject. Very little of it takes your view.

Slip on vs bolt on spacers? | Track Mustangs (trackmustangsonline.com)

Sorry if links to competitive websites are prohibited.

 

[DaveR.PP2]

Virtually all performance related applications use hubcentric spacers when needed. That is to say a non hubcentric won't work but they're better relegated to the old school wheel apps on muscle cars and stuff like that. Farm tractors too for that matter unless it's one that cost as much as your house to buy..... but go with what the manufacturer suggests (wheel or equipment).

Studs long enough to fully thread lug nuts to the extent that there is at least 1/2 the length of the threaded portion extending out beyond the seated lug nut. Torque to spec and retorque after a little drive or use..... but everybody knows to do that!

Key is seating the wheel to the concentric spacer, stud long enough that there's thread from the remaining outward portion of the stud that protrudes beyond the torqued lug nut and shouldn't be an issue with a spacer but make sure threads on stud close to space and wheel mating surface is fully threaded to ensure it's torqued to the wheel. Another issue is make sure the conical (if conical style) has the correct matching degree seat for the wheel you're using.

For lug nuts behind the steering wheel - here's my thinking on that....... there aren't enough spacers ever to fit between the ears that are optimal. But then well, that's another story.

 

[mavisky]

I've been researching this off and on and I ran across a thread where someone had used F250/350 lug bolts as a direct (but longer) replacement for the Mustang 14mm 1.5 lug bolts. Anyone know the part number? I can't find the thread. May have been on a different site...

It was on this forum as that's what I use. Mine are the Dorman 610-530. They ship with a round head that's a little too big to clear the center hub, but you can just grind a little off the one edge to allow them to install and fit the hub properly.

Had a hell of a time with Amazon trying to only ship me 1 stud when it was a box of 10, or their packaging letting some slip out, or just losing the order altogether.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-610-5...keywords=dorman+610+530&qid=1713366784&sr=8-1

This is them with a 25mm slip on spacer.

 

[17MagMetal]

Eibach makes solid stuff.

Running 25mm spacers and studs from them.

Haven’t tracked or auto-crossed on them. It’s been ~10k miles and 3 years of spirited driving.

 

[CobaltFilly]

I am very glad I took the advice of the true track car people on this forum.

We put on $98 APR 3.5” extended studs, $120 25mm APEX wheels hubcentric spacers, and it was a $40 tool with 20 minutes a hub to put them on.

Just do this and save yourself any potential problems.

Safety trumps cost. Always.


That being said on our offroading/race support Toyota Tundra we used to use bolt-on spacers. They worked, but did develop some cracks after a couple times offroading.

 

[krishelnino]

It was on this forum as that's what I use. Mine are the Dorman 610-530. They ship with a round head that's a little too big to clear the center hub, but you can just grind a little off the one edge to allow them to install and fit the hub properly.

Had a hell of a time with Amazon trying to only ship me 1 stud when it was a box of 10, or their packaging letting some slip out, or just losing the order altogether.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-610-5...keywords=dorman+610+530&qid=1713366784&sr=8-1

This is them with a 25mm slip on spacer.

so based on the suggestion on this forum from someone, I bought one Dorman 610-530 to experiment on my old hub and check to see if it would work. I was surprised I didn't have to clip the head contrary to what people mentioned about head needing to be clipped. The thick shoulder means these studs can only be used with some kind of spacer. I tried a 8mm, 25mm spacer and both worked. I wish I knew about these studs before buying the ARP one and FP hubs, would've saved some money.

 

[Trace]

So you can tell me the difference in length between the Mustang lug bolt and the Dorman?

 

[mavisky]

So you can tell me the difference in length between the Mustang lug bolt and the Dorman?

The Dorman bolt is considerably longer. I'm running a 25mm spacer on a 19x11 wheel here with a +52mm offset and you can still see the stud poking out through my open ended lug nuts.

 

[mavisky]

so based on the suggestion on this forum from someone, I bought one Dorman 610-530 to experiment on my old hub and check to see if it would work. I was surprised I didn't have to clip the head contrary to what people mentioned about head needing to be clipped. The thick shoulder means these studs can only be used with some kind of spacer. I tried a 8mm, 25mm spacer and both worked. I wish I knew about these studs before buying the ARP one and FP hubs, would've saved some money.

I wonder if thats a difference in the GT vs GT350 hubs that causes that. Good to hear that things may be even easier for OP if he goes that route. The shoulder is kind of thick, but even on my street wheels I have no issues running them with open ended lug nuts.

 

[krishelnino]

I wonder if thats a difference in the GT vs GT350 hubs that causes that. Good to hear that things may be even easier for OP if he goes that route. The shoulder is kind of thick, but even on my street wheels I have no issues running them with open ended lug nuts.

you're running your street setup on the Dorman studs without any spacer ?

 

[mavisky]

you're running your street setup on the Dorman studs without any spacer ?

Yep. Excuse the filthy state of things, but you can see how far the open ended lugs are down inside these Project 6GR wheels and still the Dorman studs extend past the surface.

 

[tosha]

OPMustang is the best source both for high quality slip on spacers and lug nuts, as well as assembled hubs. Directly represented on this forum with exceptional customer service level.

To those who advocate for bolt-on garbage, please use it as you want, but don't spread a bad advise that they are ok for things like track use.

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