bobpies
Well-Known Member
I live in Northern Ireland - don't imagine too many kicking about here with that tuner lolHi there
Quite a few of us now in the UK with SCT's so if the worse happens and you need a crank relearn I am sure there would be someone not too far away with an SCT who you can drive too or who can come to you and perform the re-learn, takes less than a minute.
A tune essentially does the following:
- 25-40HP more horsepower.
- 25-40lb/ft more torque.
- Removes torque limiters meaning the car gets up and goes much better, no more lazy not much happening when you floor it at 2000rpm in say 3rd or 4th, now it just goes!
- Improves throttle sensitivity and response by tweaking the drive by wire system, some like this, some do not, I personally dislike an over-sensitive throttle, but many love it hence why so many people buy junk like pedal commanders and sprint boosters etc. With a tune no need for such a device, your tuner can tweak the DBW and adjust throttle maps for you.
- If your car is an AUTO, they can make shifts quicker and more firmer if you so wish, again nice in sport mode, but can be annoying in regular driving mode, but a good tuner in theory could leave normal stock and just tweak sport maybe, but not 100% sure as it is an old school auto, so it could just be a global tweak to firmness by adjusting line pressure.
So its not just about more power, its about drive ability also.
Just remember Octane 93 is RON 97/98 minimum, you get a 93 tune, make sure you only ever EVER put super in, otherwise your gonna set of knock sensor which would probably save the car, that is why it is there but its just better to put right fuel in from the start.
In short these cars makes power from timing, fuelling, cam/VCT tweaking and maf flow.
To give you an idea, stock I was seeing 23-24 degrees timing with 42lb/min maf flow for around 415HP.
Now the car is seeing 30-32 degrees timing with 49lb/min maf flow and is making around 500 horses.
That is max safe timing for petrol, you could go higher if you filled with E85 or had some race fuel in the tank.
So the easiest one is maf flow, air intake, intake manifold, headers all positively effect flow, the bigger that number, general rule of thumb the more power you make.
I know the Wortec RHD header gives a 2lb/min flow increase and full catted headers give around 3-4lb/min flow increase and full decatted headers is like 5-6lb/min I believe. An intake manifold like GT 350 is worth 4-6lb/min so really gives a nice healthy boost and an intake like Cobra jet with twin 65 can be as high as round 10lb/min as that is the hole grail of NA setups.
If I was doing it all over again I'd probably go Cobra jet, FRPP Twin 65 and maybe even try to make the Cobra jet CAI to fit as well, the downside is you need to cut things, fabricate stuff to make it all fit or/and lower the engine. But with a full custom tune (ideally on a dyno) so expensive to tune, but 550HP is quite easily possible at crank, if you fit stage 3 cams, 600HP crank has being achieved now on E85.
If I go MY18 cobra jet is route I will take as with full headers, that is a 600HP NA car, that all things said would be pretty damn nice and with the FRPP twin 65 throttle body they drive just like stock, no crazy touchiness or zero power down low. 600HP NA is damn quick, no added weight, usable power and those who have done it on current gen cars are doing the quarter in 10s@125mph so not far of the FI guys.
Only downside, yes its quick, but FI though not much quicker, feels a whole lot quicker.
Its a problem that happens when you change maps to another company, or when reverting to stock and back to same map?
if it's something that happens simply loading the stock map back on and back to lund then ill have to go for the SCT.
So is there a tune suited to plain old 91? there aren't too many Super unleaded stations about in NI close to me
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