Oil consumption got worse. Not sure what to do. Should I sell the car?

[MrCincinnati]

I would not go beyond the warranty period without having this issue resolved; might become a very costly exercise later on...

Just my 2 cents.

I suspect every single Voodoo motor has this issue... but we all drive them differently. I challenge anyone that claims their motor doesn't burn oil to leave the car in 4th on the highway revmatch/downshift/engine brake for 300mi and report back. I'm certain they'll see similar consumption.

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[jasonstang]

Load is what seals the piston rings. Light load and high rpm will cause more oil consumption for sure.

 

[MrCincinnati]

Also - for reference..

From the 2017 Mustang owner's manual found here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...s-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_EN-CA_12_2016.pdf


High performance vehicles can be driven
in such a way that may lead to higher oil
consumption (this includes extended time
at high engine speeds, high loads, engine
braking, hard cornering maneuvers, and
track use). Under these conditions, the
engine oil level needs to be checked at
every refueling and adjusted to maintain
proper level to avoid engine damage.

From the 2017 GT350 Owner's Manual Supplement found here:
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/F...350-Supplement-version-3_su_EN-US_03_2017.pdf

You can drive high performance vehicles
in such a way that may lead to higher oil
consumption (this includes extended time
at high engine speeds, high loads, engine
braking, hard cornering maneuvers, and
track use). Under these conditions, oil
consumption of approximately 1 quart per
500 miles (1 liter per 800 km) is possible.
As a result, you need to check the engine
oil level at every refueling and adjust to
maintain proper levels to avoid engine
damage.

 

[mustang1]

... The top offs started as 1/2 qt every 750 miles then became 500 miles, then 1 qt every 500 miles and as of two days ago I had to add 2 full quarts in 600 miles (and after adding 2 full qt, the oil level is mid way between min and max).

I have UPR catch can that always fills up and I get 4 oz of oil every 500 miles without exception.

2 quarts in 600 miles and 4 oz in a catch can sounds like a lot. Even for low tension rings. Maybe this car has no tension rings?

Probably still good to get it looked at, pull the plugs, and do compression / leakdown to get the numbers, and then check them again in the future to see if they change.

 

[sonicc]

What if I keep the car and keep adding oil? Whats the worst that can happen? Please serious answers only.

Financially I dont care about the cost of oil. My plan was to keep this car 30-40 years and keep it in the family.

You make no sense

You don't want Ford to replace the engine for FREE, instead you're wondering if adding oil for the next 30-40 yrs is ok?

 

[Offboost]

You have a 7/100 powertrain warranty keep adding oil for 6 1/2 years beat the hell out of it and then have them replace the engine.

As others have stated they had there engines replaced and the same thing occurred so its most likely driving habits.

Maybe ford will come up with a different ring pack down the road but I personally would rather add a little oil once in awhile then have my engine torn down or replaced.

 

[MrCincinnati]

You have a 7/100 powertrain warranty keep adding oil for 6 1/2 years beat the hell out of it and then have them replace the engine.

As others have stated they had there engines replaced and the same thing occurred so its most likely driving habits.

Maybe ford will come up with a different ring pack down the road but I personally would rather add a little oil once in awhile then have my engine torn down or replaced.

7/100? You have the extended? I believe the regular factory powertrain is 5/60.

I definitely will be purchasing the extended for mine before 10k, though

 

[MrCincinnati]

You make no sense

You don't want Ford to replace the engine for FREE, instead you're wondering if adding oil for the next 30-40 yrs is ok?

Other than having a new motor, what would replacing the motor do? He's already confirmed that when he changes his driving habits the consumption drastically decreases.

 

[Donkey]

Other than having a new motor, what would replacing the motor do? He's already confirmed that when he changes his driving habits the consumption drastically decreases.

I think that's where I'm struggling to comprehend.

I personally don't ride around in the wrong gear just to listen to the engine rev higher. It's turning more rpm which essentially wears everything moving, quicker. That's not good for any 30yr longevity plan, low tension rings or not. I don't believe there is a thing wrong with half of these engines aside from their owners.

If you want to use the engine like the OP that's your choice. But when it consumes oil you need to understand why. My guess is this engine would also consume less oil if it were in a high load and high rpm usage scenario like being tracked. If there was a ring or other oil control issue it would be bad at low speeds and low load and worse once you worked it harder.

 

[MrCincinnati]

I personally don't ride around in the wrong gear just to listen to the engine rev higher. It's turning more rpm which essentially wears everything moving quicker. That's not good for any 30yr longevity plan, low tension rings or not. I don't believe there is a thing wrong with half of these engines aside from their owners.

If you want to use the engine like the OP that's your choice. But when it consumes oil you need to understand why. My guess is this engine would also consume less oil if it were in a high load and high rpm usage scenario like being tracked. If there was a ring or other oil control issue it would be bad at low speeds and low load and worse once you worked it harder.

I agree, partially. I don't personally ride around in higher rev range to hear the engine rev higher, I ride around in higher rev range because that's where the power band starts... so if I'm in the mood to play, I keep it in the power band. Unlike on a race track, though, it might stay at 4-5k for slightly extended periods in the same gear versus revving 4-7/8 and back to 4 through multiple gears constantly. This and engine braking are where, I think, a lot of the consumption is happening.

When I purchased my 392 I started looking into FI options and came across a company that posted pre and post dyno numbers. Their pre FI dyno runs were inside of the break in period. On the post some people remarked they were abusing the car etc, their response was that sure - you can do things to help with the longevity of a motor, but you can also drive it like you stole it for 100k mi and move on.

I'm in the latter camp.

 

[UnhandledException]

I think that's where I'm struggling to comprehend.

I personally don't ride around in the wrong gear just to listen to the engine rev higher. It's turning more rpm which essentially wears everything moving, quicker. That's not good for any 30yr longevity plan, low tension rings or not. I don't believe there is a thing wrong with half of these engines aside from their owners.

If you want to use the engine like the OP that's your choice. But when it consumes oil you need to understand why. My guess is this engine would also consume less oil if it were in a high load and high rpm usage scenario like being tracked. If there was a ring or other oil control issue it would be bad at low speeds and low load and worse once you worked it harder.

Majority (90%) of my driving is in a double line county road (one lane each direction) in my town with curved country roads. I m not traveling on highway on 4th gear at 5000 rpm for 50 miles. I have to always slow down/speed up and repeat that cycle. I dont have straight roads where I can maintain speed. Could I always use a higher gear and bog down the engine a bit and drive at 1500 rpm once in a while but hold the higher gear? Yes I could. My dad who is 70 years old drives that way.

When on highway, I m usually on 5th gear at 3000-3750 rpm. Where I live there is too much traffic on highways where you are hardly above 65-70 mph. Those speeds at 6th gear, there is no torque and I m stuck at 1800 rpm. There is a lot of slowing down then speeding up and changing lanes. I m in tri state area not in texas or ohio where you have miles and miles of smooth straight highways or freeways.

So I dont want you to think i m keeping high revs all the time, but I'd like to downshift, speed up a few hundred ft then slow down and do it again. Because roads and traffic situation allows this.

 

[UnhandledException]

I alsp do lots and lots of engine braking because I realize thats the easieat and the least troublefree way to enjoy the sound. Otherwise you have to constantly accelerate and go above speed limit whereas by downshifting and letting go off the throttle you get the enjoy it much more. Is engine braking the cause of this?

 

[PP0001]

13,000 miles. No track history. Daily driver. Occassional 7-8k rpm. Broken in properly. Never hard on gas when cold. Oil changes every 3000 miles.

The top offs started as 1/2 qt every 750 miles then became 500 miles, then 1 qt every 500 miles and as of two days ago I had to add 2 full quarts in 600 miles (and after adding 2 full qt, the oil level is mid way between min and max).

I have UPR catch can that always fills up and I get 4 oz of oil every 500 miles without exception.

All measurements done on level ground (on my 4 post lift which has level runways). All measurements done after the car was driven and oil reaches 200F and waiting 15 minutes).

The car has a lot of sentimental value for me, my 6 year old loves it. I was planning to keep it in the family and hand her the keys one day. But I m afraid its a dudd and this oil consumption is only going to get worse.

Changing the engine is not an option. A) I dont trust the service. I live in tri state area where Ford service is terrible. B) Not going to be okay with blank VIN stamp on the block.

Is there anything I can do to improve the situation? Should I try different oil? Or should I change sensors somewhere?

Based on your maintenance journal you obviously keep very good records of your oil consumption which is sometimes better or worse subject to your various driving modes.

That being the case I would suggest that you have a strong case for some serious help from Ford and suggest that you get started sooner than later.

If this car has as much sentimental value as you have already indicated and plan to turn this car over to your family (daughter) why would you not get Ford involved immediately in order to get this situation resolved?

With respect to a possible replacement block not having a VIN stamped into it, I would hope that would not be an issue for your daughter many years down the road.

As Tom mentioned earlier in his post #10, get this process started with Ford and weigh all your options once they are offered from Ford.

Good luck and I hope that you get this all behind you very soon!

;)

 

[MrCincinnati]

Is engine braking the cause of this?

As others have mentioned - get Ford involved if you're genuinely concerned about the health of your motor/car.

But there's also an easy way to answer your question above:

Note where your oil level is, reset your trip meter, drive it like you normally do for a set number of miles (let's say 250). Bring your oil level back up (if necessary), reset your trip meter, engine brake as little as possible for the same interval.

 

[UnhandledException]

Thanks, I just left a VM to my service advisor. Will keep the forum informed. I appreciate all the feedback/advice.

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