Don't feel bad, Mobil1 makes very high quality oil, you probably aren't missing out on much. Is it better than Amsoil? That's very much debatable, especially when you bring in price, OCI and your personal requirements (dd vs track/drag/xcross) You can easily push that OIC to 5k if not more (7500 or even 10k but I'd send an oil sample to blackstone to verify). We don't live in the days of conventional oil where you have to change every 3month/3k mi. While ford does use a synthetic blend from factory, I personally don't recommend a synthetic blend on any performance car nowadays. Full synthetics don't cost much more and they offer better protection and lubrication. I've been running amsoil or mobil1 0w-30 for the last 10 years on every single car i've owned (that requires a xw-30 oil), even on cars that recommended conventional 10w-30 oil. Many years ago, the conventional -> synthetic swap and vice versa was considered to be problematic but this isn't the case anymore. Oil technology has come a long way even if you compare to 10 or 20 years ago and I'm thankful for this new oil, less maintenance and better protection for a small price increase.This thread makes me feel bad for buying the mobile 1 on sale and planning to change it every 3k miles
newer engines with tighter tolerances don't burn as much oil as older ones and a catch can will at least slow that problem.Not sure if this was discussed but just wanted to add one point to this topic. Unlike the Amsoil OE the SS is not API certified since it has high ZDDP levels. ZDDP or zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is basically anti friction oil additive. According to API, high levels of ZDDP can cause damage/failure to the catalytic converter over time. Although I have yet to see any evidence of this in real life. This oil then is technically not warranty approved by Ford as it doesn't have the API certification stamp on it like the Amsoil OE does. Not sure if this matters to a lot of people as I personally don't care about it. Most of the oils that I have used in my previous 2 vehicles have not been API certified.
To answer your question straightforward, yes. But you should confirm the life of your oil by sending it to a oil testing facility like blackstone labs after a change, most people change oil waay to early and waste money. They'll give you a report that says how your oil is doing and give you a basic idea of how the engine is doing inside. The biggest thing is that you need to match your oil to your driving style. This is a fantastic source on educating yourself on oil. I heavily recommend all car enthusiasts spend a little time educating themselves about oil. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.phpI hear that sub 15k mile OCI on Amsoil SS is really kind of a waste, and have seen recommendations of 15k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. There is no way I'm racking up 15k miles in a year, I barely hit 10k in 2 years, so am I wasting money with fancy oil?
40F isn't that cold but if that worries you, buy a 0W-x0. at 40F, 0W-x0 still isn't viscous as the engine at normal operating temp. Better yet, let the engine idle for a solid minute before you move it so that oil has a chance to get to the right places to lubricate the engine. Remember, cold oil, even at 0W is not viscous enough to get everywhere.l As we all know, most of your wear and tear is when the engine is cold aka not at nominal operating temp so I'll take all the viscosity I can get at to make sure that oil gets everywhere as fast as possible. For daily driving, I'll always take the side of thinner oil because you aren't revving that engine out past 3k most of the time and the fuel savings is nice(we're talking like 2-5+% fuel consumption decrease (depending on what oil you came from) so don't think that you're gunna somehow magically hit 40+mpg because of oil).The biggest dilemma, for me, is the fact that my car see's a lot of cold starts (usually 50-60F throughout the year. maybe 40-50 in the winter months). My trips to work are short, 11 miles. Other than that, the only "hard use" the car gets is the occasionall WOT blast to 60-80mph. That's it. I don't track it, I don't beat on it repeatedly, it lives a very easy life.
I whole heartedly agree with this, but not everyone can afford the best and there are plenty of synthetic oils that can protect the engine and still save yourself a couple $$You're right, better safe than sorry and $25-30 more for the best stuff isn't that much more. Welp, I ordered Amsoil SS 5w20 once again.