Need engine suggestions/input for over 1000whp upgrades

[Turbocrazed]

So I have decided to do some upgrades and ran into a new forged short block. It has Manley forged h-beam rods, Manley pistons(10.5 to 1) and arp studs everywhere, it is a 12mm head bolt engine which I also have studs for. Goal 1200-1300whp already have billet oil pump gears and crankshaft gear. I do not plan on sleeveing the motor though I know I should. Suggestions from you guys are appreciated.
1st is what do I need to change or modify being a 11-12 block going into my 2016 car with gen 2 heads?
2nd what is the best head gasket? Are stock mls gaskets inferior to cosmetic or others?
3rd what other items are must haves for upgrade when putting this together?
4th plan on running 20+ lbs or boost to get desired power, are upgraded valve springs a must? Which ones?
5th anything I’m missing?

Car has a custom twin turbo setup 6266 turbos, meth injection, 18 intake, triple 465 fuel pumps, 10an lines fuel rails and id1700 injectors(fuel system is new with engine) e85 fuel made 870whp on 15lbs of boost on current setup.

Thanks in advance.

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[Jay-rod427]

If you intentionally have no plans to sleeve it this thread is pointless. Worried about head gaskets, and valve springs when it will absolutely crack the block pushing that hard.

 

[Turbocrazed]

If you intentionally have no plans to sleeve it this thread is pointless. Worried about head gaskets, and valve springs when it will absolutely crack the block pushing that hard.

There are many people pushing over 1000whp with unsleeved blocks. It is not pointless to still talk about other aspects of the build. I understand that will be the holdup but I already know that looking for info on the remaining questions.

 

[Boduke0220]

If you were just trying to make 1000-1100 I would say you might be ok but 1200+ it wont last long lol

 

[olaosunt]

So I have decided to do some upgrades and ran into a new forged short block. It has Manley forged h-beam rods, Manley pistons(10.5 to 1) and arp studs everywhere, it is a 12mm head bolt engine which I also have studs for. Goal 1200-1300whp already have billet oil pump gears and crankshaft gear. I do not plan on sleeveing the motor though I know I should. Suggestions from you guys are appreciated.
1st is what do I need to change or modify being a 11-12 block going into my 2016 car with gen 2 heads?
2nd what is the best head gasket? Are stock mls gaskets inferior to cosmetic or others?
3rd what other items are must haves for upgrade when putting this together?
4th plan on running 20+ lbs or boost to get desired power, are upgraded valve springs a must? Which ones?
5th anything I’m missing?

Car has a custom twin turbo setup 6266 turbos, meth injection, 18 intake, triple 465 fuel pumps, 10an lines fuel rails and id1700 injectors(fuel system is new with engine) e85 fuel made 870whp on 15lbs of boost on current setup.

Thanks in advance.

I think the location of the oil filter is different on the 11-14 blocks but I was able to use a 14 alluminator block in the my 15 so should not be a problem.

Having the block with the 12 mm head bolts/studs is definitely a plus as I was lifting heads on both my sleeved 5.2 blocks (15-17) at 18-20 psi even with the 11 mm ARP studs . The 12 mm studs bolt will also help avoid cracking at the knock sensor boss (also had that happen in a non sleeved block with the 11mm studs )

The MMR block brace may also help and won’t have problems with clearance in a turbo (unlike the KN supercharger manifold )

I am looking at building another block starting with the Gen 2 5.2 L ford racing block just so I can use the longer 12 mm bolts .


I tried the JE pro seal head gaskets when I repacked a blown MLS gasket but still having head lift .

Upgraded springs are also a must to decreased chances of Valve float . I think the PAC springs are what most builders recommend .

 

[whatsup62]

Since you are not going to sleeve it I would DEFINATELY go with water jacket supports.

 

[Turbocrazed]

Ok let’s say 1100whp. What would you recommend?

I think the location of the oil filter is different on the 11-14 blocks but I was able to use a 14 alluminator block in the my 15 so should not be a problem.

Having the block with the 12 mm head bolts/studs is definitely a plus as I was lifting heads on both my sleeved 5.2 blocks (15-17) at 18-20 psi even with the 11 mm ARP studs . The 12 mm studs bolt will also help avoid cracking at the knock sensor boss (also had that happen in a non sleeved block with the 11mm studs )

The MMR block brace may also help and won’t have problems with clearance in a turbo (unlike the KN supercharger manifold )

I am looking at building another block starting with the Gen 2 5.2 L ford racing block just so I can use the longer 12 mm bolts .


I tried the JE pro seal head gaskets when I repacked a blown MLS gasket but still having head lift .

Upgraded springs are also a must to decreased chances of Valve float . I think the PAC springs are what most builders recommend .

Thanks for the response do you by any chance know what part number for the springs?

 

[Turbocrazed]

Since you are not going to sleeve it I would DEFINATELY go with water jacket supports.

I’m not familiar with water jacket supports, who makes them?

Thanks

 

[MadCow]

For that power level if you want it to last do sleeves with the forged rotating assembly. If you don't do sleeves just leave the stock rotating assembly. They are about equally strong. If you are a DIY type you could also try block filler. I haven't heard much about coyotes with block filler but I think it could work.

 

[whatsup62]

I’m not familiar with water jacket supports, who makes them?

Thanks

https://www.modularheadshop.com/i-31621668-mhs-5-0l-coyote-block-cylinder-support-kit.html

 

[Barrel]

My block isn't sleeved but I do have water jacket supports as well as the MMR block brace to support the valley. If I was at 1200-1300 I would definitely do sleeves.

 

[Devil5oh]

Youre going to a want sleeved block if you want anything over 1,100 rwhp. You are already spending the money on a forged shortblock, whats the point in not sleeving it?

 

[Turbocrazed]

Youre going to a want sleeved block if you want anything over 1,100 rwhp. You are already spending the money on a forged shortblock, whats the point in not sleeving it?

I traded out for the new short block already completed. If I was to sleeve it the rods and pistons would be of no use and all machine work currently done is wasted. It is close to starting over. Sounds like I might just have to cut it back to 1100whp and let it eat at that level.

 

[beefcake]

on a 15 up absolutely no reason to build anything in the engine if your not sleeving it. the water jackets will go before pistons and rods will. save your $$$

12-1300 is unattainable without sleeving the block

really anything over 900 wheel on a s/c or 1000 on a turbo imo and you should be sleeving

 

[olaosunt]

How about using the the new 5.2 block without sleeves ?
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6010-M52A

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