sigintel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2015
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- Location
- Republic of Texas, God's Country
- First Name
- Ray
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 GT
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Let me amend that. And yes, please get it checked and be safe out there. I was lucky that one of the lug nuts hold the wheels and I did not lose a wheel, sending me down a cliff.Only seeing little squares with the white "X".
Very much interested in what happened, since I've had one plastic centering ring distort in such a manner that once removed could not be re-used because the wheel could not be made to go fully flush again.
Norm
This sounds more time consuming and tedious then putting the wheel on, zipping the nuts down mildly tight with an electric, then finishing torque with a torque wrench. For what, to save $20 bucks on aluminum hub rings?With the tire off the ground, snug the lug nuts up in the star pattern by hand first to get the wheels drawn in evenly. A 1/2" drive ratchet is all the leverage you'll need for this, and for front wheels you can hold the wheel against rotating with your other hand for this step. From there I torque the lug nuts down in 2 or 3 steps (still using the star pattern). The first step or two I'll block the wheel to prevent rotation and only do the final torque cycle with some of the car weight on the wheel.
Norm
I have never ran the rings on my car, I'm not sure if i should and also because the incident I had, I'm very skeptical of them. The aluminium ones are fine, but the plastics are a no no for me.This sounds more time consuming and tedious then putting the wheel on, zipping the nuts down mildly tight with an electric, then finishing torque with a torque wrench. For what, to save $20 bucks on aluminum hub rings?
:cheers:
Time consuming . . . I guess it does add a little time, I just don't put myself under time pressure for this, as I'll address in a little more detail later in the post.This sounds more time consuming and tedious then putting the wheel on, zipping the nuts down mildly tight with an electric, then finishing torque with a torque wrench. For what, to save $20 bucks on aluminum hub rings?
:cheers:
Again, interesting. Myself and everyone else I converse with at the track does it the way I'm speaking of.Time consuming . . . I guess it does add a little time, I just don't put myself under time pressure for this, as I'll address in a little more detail later in the post.
It's still better than the alternative, where an uncalibrated "mildly tight" can still leave you with a centering error. Been there.
FWIW, I will run the lug nuts down to "first impact" with the cordless impact set on low speed/low power, which ends up being much less torque than the 25-ish ft*lbs I get with the ratchet-wrench snug. That's my only concession to "speed" here (especially with the ARP studs, which are pretty long if you're only using 1/8" spacers or none at all).
I have had a wheel separate from the car (probably a single OE stud failure followed by a zipper-style failure of the other 4 in quick succession, zero warning). Always torqued to spec, just not with as fussy a procedure, though there is some possibility of one overtorque situation out of my control having occurred. So I'm REALLY HESITANT about endorsing ANY shortcuts with wheel mounting.
I'll get the next round . . . :cheers:
Norm
And I've had cars (and/or wheels) where that was entirely sufficient.Again, interesting. Myself and everyone else I converse with at the track does it the way I'm speaking of.