How good is Royal Purple Oil?

[Cobra99]

So your true syn oil is 100% Group IV PAO ? No other groups mixed into the oil blend ?

I don't want to get in a debate on which oil to use but I run 5w50 Sig Amsoil in my two GT500. Also my Son's built Focus.

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[Garfy]

For a full synthetic, what do you recommend?

I recall seeing a product test review comparing a number of different brands of full synthetic motor oils and compared to conventional or blends, most of the full synthetics were fairly comparable. Yes, there were slight variations but they were all generally in the same ballpark. I think they're all pretty much OK; I use Napa brand full synthetic for my other cars but use either Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic for my GT (just a "mental" thing as I'm sure the Napa would be fine in the GT as it's manufactured by Ashland Oil, the ones who make Valvoline). Pretty sure the Walmart stuff is comparable as well though it wasn't in the test article I read back then.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

I recall seeing a product test review comparing a number of different brands of full synthetic motor oils and compared to conventional or blends, most of the full synthetics were fairly comparable. Yes, there were slight variations but they were all generally in the same ballpark. I think they're all pretty much OK; I use Napa brand full synthetic for my other cars but use either Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic for my GT (just a "mental" thing as I'm sure the Napa would be fine in the GT as it's manufactured by Ashland Oil, the ones who make Valvoline). Pretty sure the Walmart stuff is comparable as well though it wasn't in the test article I read back then.

Yea, just keep in mind that Walmart is not a producer, so they buy from someone who might be the lowest bidder. Does not mean that it is not a good product. Just make sure that it has the specification approval emblems (starburst and such). None of the majors spend the millions that it requires to formulate a really high-performance oil in a specification. Nowadays they formulate to the spec and they are good to go. They leave the tiny part of the market that wants Super Performance Racing Space Shuttle Approved oils to the boutique blenders, who do a very good job a it in most cases. For companies like Exxon Mobil, Chevron, Conoco Phillips, et al. it is simply not worth what it cost to produce these products, market them, and for the Marketers to have to stock small volumes of them in their warehouses. So, they leave it to Redline (actually owned by Conoco Phillips), Amsoil, Driven, to service that market and take the comparatively small market share. It is all decided by the Benjamins. And in this case the bean counters win at each of he big producers. It is just not worth their time. Something about the the juice and the squeeze.

 

[GregO]

Yea, just keep in mind that Walmart is not a producer, so they buy from someone who might be the lowest bidder. Does not mean that it is not a good product. Just make sure that it has the specification approval emblems (starburst and such). None of the majors spend the millions that it requires to formulate a really high-performance oil in a specification. Nowadays they formulate to the spec and they are good to go. They leave the tiny part of the market that wants Super Performance Racing Space Shuttle Approved oils to the boutique blenders, who do a very good job a it in most cases. For companies like Exxon Mobil, Chevron, Conoco Phillips, et al. it is simply not worth what it cost to produce these products, market them, and for the Marketers to have to stock small volumes of them in their warehouses. So, they leave it to Redline (actually owned by Conoco Phillips), Amsoil, Driven, to service that market and take the comparatively small market share. It is all decided by the Benjamins. And in this case the bean counters win at each of he big producers. It is just not worth their time. Something about the the juice and the squeeze.

I perform contract work for an OEM of high speed rotary filler machines. Most automotive and powersports enthusiast would tip over if they seen all the different manufacturers oil bottles shipped in for factory acceptance testing and loaded onto the same filler feeder conveyor.
Warren Oil is one of the bigger clients, Lube-Tech is right up there as well.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsResultsDetail?accountId=-1&companyId=10297

 

[Garfy]

Yea, just keep in mind that Walmart is not a producer, so they buy from someone who might be the lowest bidder. Does not mean that it is not a good product. Just make sure that it has the specification approval emblems (starburst and such). None of the majors spend the millions that it requires to formulate a really high-performance oil in a specification. Nowadays they formulate to the spec and they are good to go. They leave the tiny part of the market that wants Super Performance Racing Space Shuttle Approved oils to the boutique blenders, who do a very good job a it in most cases. For companies like Exxon Mobil, Chevron, Conoco Phillips, et al. it is simply not worth what it cost to produce these products, market them, and for the Marketers to have to stock small volumes of them in their warehouses. So, they leave it to Redline (actually owned by Conoco Phillips), Amsoil, Driven, to service that market and take the comparatively small market share. It is all decided by the Benjamins. And in this case the bean counters win at each of he big producers. It is just not worth their time. Something about the the juice and the squeeze.

Yes, I figure that if the API specs on the oil meets or exceeds what Ford requires, we're good to go for normal everyday use. I don't track the car so most of what's on the market works fine. I'm not sure if the Mobil 1 and Castrol are much better than the Napa branded stuff, but it just makes me feel better to feed my good car with those.

 

[Firsttexan]

It's purple and meets or exceeds factory specs like almost every oil.

I have been using the Ford recommended Motorcraft synthetic blend the GT500.
My F150 with a 5.0 get's the same + Ceratec.

I like Amsoil products. But too pricey for my annual oil change. I only put about 2k a year on each vehicle.


These 2 oils take top honors in actual performance tests. I like this guy and his testing methods on all kinds of stuff.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ate=ive&vld=cid:e358db0d,vid:TWuKvnCq1js,st:0

 

[Angrey]

It's purple and meets or exceeds factory specs like almost every oil.

I have been using the Ford recommended Motorcraft synthetic blend the GT500.
My F150 with a 5.0 get's the same + Ceratec.

I like Amsoil products. But too pricey for my annual oil change. I only put about 2k a year on each vehicle.


These 2 oils take top honors in actual performance tests. I like this guy and his testing methods on all kinds of stuff.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ate=ive&vld=cid:e358db0d,vid:TWuKvnCq1js,st:0

The European testing and metrics are actually better and it's all been done before. I don't give two ishts about whether the oil gums up at sub zero temps. A) Because I don't live or operate my car in those conditions and B) Most people using performance cars aren't worried about cold viscosity performance, they're worried about high temp performance.

While the two biggest threats to motor wear are cold starts and high abuse thermal break down, for anyone who flogs their car, the second is 1st, 2nd and 3rd concern.

HTHS is the best measurement for those that want to protect their high performance motor and rotating components.

The entire industry is flooded with an old concern that grows every year, how do you protect the motor but maximize efficiency and fuel economy.

High performance guys largely don't care about such things, which is why all the usual suspects with respect to widespread certifications get thrown out the window.

I want my motor to run smoothly and efficiently for more power, but I could care less about the economy aspect or environmental pressures. I could care less whether the motor is protected in the Winter in Alaska because I don't live there and I wouldn't operate my high end motor there even if I did.

The old metrics of 0c and 100c are lacking. Where does the REAL engine wear occur? It happens in high temp areas such as bearings, cam rollers etc that live at temps that far exceed 100c MOST OF THE TIME.

In summary, the concerns and needs for a race team are much different than those of a typical passenger vehicle owner/operator or a fleet vehicle operator.

Like I said earlier, pick an oil with a high HTHS, has decent moly and zddp content and has a relatively low noack. Change it often enough as appropriate and use a good synthetic filtration media. Always let the vehicle warm fully before moving it (this isn't your mom's mini-van where you jump in and drive to the gas station 2 miles away and back and shut the car off. Not only do you wear the motor more cold, you contaminate it more by not heating it to the point of burning off fuel and other lightweight contaminants). Then go out and enjoy the car.

To that end, oils that use group 4 and 5 will generally be the better choices........with esther based lubricants being the best because they resist shearing and stabilize higher than those in lower groups.

 

[Angrey]

An interesting note that hasn't been discussed in this thread is the recent development of concerning ourselves with low Calcium content.

If you have direct injection, particularly if you run a turbo or supercharger paired with it, then you want to start eying lubricants with the lowest Calcium content you can.

"LSPI" (low speed pre ignition) is a newer focused phenomenon primarily in direct injection engines and amplified under boost. Essentially, high calcium content can and does create conditions for pre ignition in DI motors. These typical detergent additives can actually make the car more susceptible to damaging knock under lugging conditions that most people utilize when they drive.

Do you like to mash the throttle to pass someone without changing gears? While it's never been good to lug the motor, doing so on a motor with DI and an oil with high Calcium content could make something already bad even worse.

 

[20ducks]

Here in Eastern Kansas it is rare that we get extreme temps and when we do I don't go out and neither does my car. My speed is limited to 110mph and only for very short distances. 85mph is the standard long haul speed. I use my Escort 360c detector for safety purposes. To that end, I am going to continue use of Royal Purple 5W20 along with a Mobil 1 M1-212A oil filter. I'm about a month away from my oil change cycle.

Thanks for all the input, this has been very educational..

 

[Firsttexan]

Fill in the blank.

Oil threads ____

 

[Dans18GT]

I've seen two different 4.6 motors with similar miles torn down at the same time. One that ran RP and one that ran Mobil 1, the RP motor had some caking on everything, the Mobil 1 motor looked brand new still.

Needless to say the guy that was running RP was not happy.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Fill in the blank.

Oil threads ____

SUCK

 

[DaveB]

Going to change oil again soon. My neighbor asked me why I use Royal Purple Synthetic? I have been using Royal Purple for quite a few years. But, I couldn't remember why. Will someone help me with a good response?

It’s a joke. I don’t know if it still says on the bottle, but it used to say that it actually added horsepower. Oil will not add or create hp, it might could free up 1 or 2 if it is slick enough but nothing anyone would notice. In my 350, I still run motorcraft 5w50. I don’t know if mobile or anything is necessarily better, but I know it’s not bad. Otherwise I was always a castrol person

 

[Angrey]

It’s a joke. I don’t know if it still says on the bottle, but it used to say that it actually added horsepower. Oil will not add or create hp, it might could free up 1 or 2 if it is slick enough but nothing anyone would notice. In my 350, I still run motorcraft 5w50. I don’t know if mobile or anything is necessarily better, but I know it’s not bad. Otherwise I was always a castrol person

It's marketing gimmicks, but make no mistake, the entire industrial world is seeking every efficiency possible. The new age of seeking lubricants that can remain lower viscosity but still resist shear and still provide appropriate film to protect wear is all the rage. And it makes sense, over the application of millions of motors, engines, probably billions of wearing and rotating components, even if they can eek out .1%, globally it ends up saving a lot.

The old paradigm of thick to protect hot isn't good enough, everyone wants thin to protect hot and thin to protect cold. To that end, lubricant manufacturers that "CLAIM" they can protect as well but do it thinner credit themselves with increasing power and economy. Of course the endeavor and the claims are complicated and dubious. Physics and nature have been telling us for awhile there's no free lunch, but we keep making advancements with technology to fight back the inconvenient aspects of temperature, viscosity, lubricity and efficiency.

 

[GregO]

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/20...ghts-of-drag-racing-choose-light-weight-oils/

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