Please don’t think I’m being an arse, this is just my observations for the purpose of this discussion (I also don’t have any brand loyalty with this issue - I’m happy with my prop rod and don’t intend to replace it)I've had mine since Feb. 2021 (from Amazon) and they seem fine so far. Maybe it has to do with careful installation of the lower bracket?
Yep, that's exactly how it happens - these mounts twist and scratch the paint, and distort the metal. Trying to straighten or re-mount it just makes everything worse.Please don’t think I’m being an arse, this is just my observations for the purpose of this discussion (I also don’t have any brand loyalty with this issue - I’m happy with my prop rod and don’t intend to replace it)
To my eye, that bracket looks rotated (clockwise) / twisted ?
Unless it’s a trick of the camera :
Bottom left corner = has the bracket started to mark up the paint ?
Bottom right corner = it looks like the bracket has rotated, then stopped when it’s contacted the raised section of the fender recess ?
Bolt head = if your bracket hasn’t moved, I suspect that might be because it’s ‘very’ tight. Is that a spring washer under the head ? If so, it’s giving the appearance that the high bolt torque has started to splay it out ? If so, I wonder if that’s a contributing factor for the people that have suffered failures ? (high torque = washer splays = joint loosens = bracket twists).
As I said, just my observations, and I won’t be offended if you challenge them / if I’m way off mark / if you ignore me etc etc
WD
100% That's what happened to me and a friend. With only a single attaching point - the fender bracket is going to rotate. I even tried some thin, 3M emblem tape as suggested by Redline. When the hood is closed or opened, lot of pressure against the one bolt mounting point.Yep, that's exactly how it happens - these mounts twist and scratch the paint, and distort the metal. Trying to straighten or re-mount it just makes everything worse.
Exactly100% That's what happened to me and a friend. With only a single attaching point - the fender bracket is going to rotate. I even tried some thin, 3M emblem tape as suggested by Redline. When the hood is closed or opened, lot of pressure against the one bolt mounting point.
No, I didn't add anything to the kit that I received. It's the flat washer that's underneath the bolt head and the serrated washer is underneath the mounting panel. Yes, it is turned a little bit but not due to the strut but rather when I tightened it the plate rotated until it hit the raised part of the fender that stopped it from rotating. I didn't try to make it "straight" because the ball socket where the strut attaches doesn't have to be perpendicular since it is round anyway. I looked carefully at the edges of the bottom mount and it hasn't moved since installation (no scratches or scrape marks evident) since I did mount it that way. Yes, it did turn that way when I tightened the bolt but felt it was an advantage to do so because it can't turn anymore after hitting the raised portion of the mounting area. BTW, there was no other option at the time when I bought it years ago. If better lower mounts are available separately, I may consider getting a set later on, though that would probably mean I'd have to modify my battery cover on the passenger side again. I made a cut on mine to allow for the mount so I could keep my cover in place. I know lots of guys just remove it and throw it away but I like the fact that it keeps my battery top from getting dirty and mucky as well as keeping debris out of the manifold area underneath with that nest of wiring and hoses. I'm kind of OCD about keeping things clean. When I showed a friend of mine in Vegas what my underhood looked like she commented how it looked like it just left the showroom. Yeah, I wipe down the area including under the hood, etc. a lot.Please don’t think I’m being an arse, this is just my observations for the purpose of this discussion (I also don’t have any brand loyalty with this issue - I’m happy with my prop rod and don’t intend to replace it)
To my eye, that bracket looks rotated (clockwise) / twisted ?
Unless it’s a trick of the camera :
Bottom left corner = has the bracket started to mark up the paint ?
Bottom right corner = it looks like the bracket has rotated, then stopped when it’s contacted the raised section of the fender recess ?
Bolt head = if your bracket hasn’t moved, I suspect that might be because it’s ‘very’ tight. Is that a spring washer under the head ? If so, it’s giving the appearance that the high bolt torque has started to splay it out ? If so, I wonder if that’s a contributing factor for the people that have suffered failures ? (high torque = washer splays = joint loosens = bracket twists).
As I said, just my observations, and I won’t be offended if you challenge them / if I’m way off mark / if you ignore me etc etc
WD
It's nice to have more room under the hood to work on things. It isn't a big ask on a $40k- $60k car.Rod?
I just ordered a set of the fender mounts directly from redline $40.88 shipping via USPS included. Will see if this makes a difference.No, I didn't add anything to the kit that I received. It's the flat washer that's underneath the bolt head and the serrated washer is underneath the mounting panel. Yes, it is turned a little bit but not due to the strut but rather when I tightened it the plate rotated until it hit the raised part of the fender that stopped it from rotating. I didn't try to make it "straight" because the ball socket where the strut attaches doesn't have to be perpendicular since it is round anyway. I looked carefully at the edges of the bottom mount and it hasn't moved since installation (no scratches or scrape marks evident) since I did mount it that way. Yes, it did turn that way when I tightened the bolt but felt it was an advantage to do so because it can't turn anymore after hitting the raised portion of the mounting area. BTW, there was no other option at the time when I bought it years ago. If better lower mounts are available separately, I may consider getting a set later on, though that would probably mean I'd have to modify my battery cover on the passenger side again. I made a cut on mine to allow for the mount so I could keep my cover in place. I know lots of guys just remove it and throw it away but I like the fact that it keeps my battery top from getting dirty and mucky as well as keeping debris out of the manifold area underneath with that nest of wiring and hoses. I'm kind of OCD about keeping things clean. When I showed a friend of mine in Vegas what my underhood looked like she commented how it looked like it just left the showroom. Yeah, I wipe down the area including under the hood, etc. a lot.
BTW, I left my hood prop in place as backup because you know how these hydraulic lifts always get weak and fail sooner or later (I've been in hit in the head a few times from those hoods that hold in place for a few seconds but a light breeze makes them fall down).
The Redline complete kit I saw online (# 21-11030 ) was about $90 US and the lower mounts don't seem much larger than the FP ones, although it looks beefier on the part that goes underneath so it may work better. Let us know how it goes.I just ordered a set of the fender mounts directly from redline $40.88 shipping via USPS included. Will see if this makes a difference.
I wish I had thought to put on something like neoprene… too much dabbling in the greens that day I guess lol. Also thank you guys for all the input, hopefully it allows someone else to avoid this issue down the road!I’ve had my Steeda hood struts on for six years now without any issues. Not sure if it’s still this way, but my struts came with several small swatches of neoprene that mounted between the bracket and the hood. This not only protected the hood but also held the brackets securely in place as you tightened them down. They have not moved in six years.