Flashing check engine light

[Digope]

A couple days, I got a flashing check engine and the car wouldn't give power. Googled it and discovered it meant a misfire had occurred. It only has happened once so maybe the fuel was bad or something else. Today on my way home, the same thing occurs so I decided to drive on the freeway some more. It continues to happen every couple miles on the freeway. Has there been any problems like this? I found it this was an issue on the 11-14 GT 5.0s but not much info for the 15-16 GTs. Could it just be bad gas? I just got my car back a few days ago from the stealership after my clutch wouldn't disengage on its own. Any suggestions?!?! :frusty:

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[Falconetti]

take to dealer again or pull the plugs and inspect.

 

[Digope]

I took it out again to try and get rid of the 4 gallons it had left. Along the way the CEL started flashing, but this time It didn't disappear.

 

[Digope]

Update: Couldn't find a place to get my code read tonight. I have read that the replacement of a flywheel or clutch disc can cause misfire. The dealership must have not "relearned" the flywheel because that seems to be a problem for many on the forums. Hopefully that will be the last problem I have with this car for a while.

 

[GT Pony]

Update: Couldn't find a place to get my code read tonight.

Don't need a code reader ... just go into "Engineering Test Mode" per this video and scroll through the menu until you get the screen that will show any current or history trouble-codes.

[ame]

 

[2015 Silver GT]

A crank relearn should have been done after the clutch work was performed.

 

[Digope]

Don't need a code reader ... just go into "Engineering Test Mode" per this video and scroll through the menu until you get the screen that will show any current or history trouble-codes.

I could only find a DTC code and couldn't find anything online for it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

A crank relearn should have been done after the clutch work was performed.

I would think so, right? The code ended up being just a random misfire. I recommend them do the "Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction procedure" with their scan tool, but they went straight to coils being bad. I set up an appointment for Monday, but will try to get them to fix it with the scan tool. I don't want to get new coils and then have random misfires again.

 

[Digope]

Update: Went today to get the the random misfire between 3k-4k at times fixed. I told them to do the "misfire procedure" because random misfires occur with a clutch repair. He made it sound like it was 100% a coil issue, whatever. I go to pick up my car before the paint flaw repair appointment at 2:30. The car isn't ready and they try to make me confess that I had a tune installed. I kept my cool and told them I haven't had any tune installed and that the only mods are leds and cat back exhaust. What the hell are they thinking? They said that something wasn't calibrated right, but mechanically everything is alright. Fix my damn car! I shouldn't be having problems on a brand new freakin car. Anyone else been accused of having a tune installed?

 

[GT Pony]

^^^ Maybe the ECU had some kind of issue when it was originally flashed by Ford.

 

[Digope]

^^^ Maybe the ECU had some kind of issue when it was originally flashed by Ford.

He called me one hour later and told me the "misfire procedure" fixed it. The car feels a lot better so that leads me to believe they didn't do it with the clutch repair. I'm still confused on why he tried to make me confess to a tune.

 

[15 Stang]

I'm still confused on why he tried to make me confess to a tune.

If you have a tune, they can deny warranty coverage for the repairs, and you will be on the hook for the full shop rate, ie, more profit for the stealership.

 

[2015 Silver GT]

If you have a tune, they can deny warranty coverage for the repairs, and you will be on the hook for the full shop rate, ie, more profit for the stealership.

That about sums it up unfortunately.

 

[americanmuscle1776]

A couple days, I got a flashing check engine and the car wouldn't give power. Googled it and discovered it meant a misfire had occurred. It only has happened once so maybe the fuel was bad or something else. Today on my way home, the same thing occurs so I decided to drive on the freeway some more. It continues to happen every couple miles on the freeway. Has there been any problems like this? I found it this was an issue on the 11-14 GT 5.0s but not much info for the 15-16 GTs. Could it just be bad gas? I just got my car back a few days ago from the stealership after my clutch wouldn't disengage on its own. Any suggestions?!?! :frusty:

Bottom line: super easy fix, just have to know about the “misfire monitor neutral profile correction” process and send them this doc/insist that your mechanic hook his scanner up and run it, even if he’s understandably skeptical because he’s never heard of it.

What happened with my mustang

60K miles clutch started shuddering a little at first then horribly coming out of 1st and reverse

No matter how much gas you gave it or how quick you let the clutch out, it felt like when a beginner driver is learning to drive stick and stalls the car out—that kind of shuddering.

The ford dealership said it’d take 1 whole month for them to get to the repair on my car and that I’d have to leave the car with them for the entire month.

Obviously, I couldn’t go without a car for that long, so I did some research and found a highly rated private mechanic shop near-ish me.

They diagnosed the problem and installed a brand-new clutch and flywheel (regular ford replacement clutch and flywheel—i.e., not a fancy performance one)

No check engine light initially, within 24 hrs check engine light came on

Went to mechanic. Hooked up scanner #1 (Zurich ZR15S)

I took a picture of the code: P0304 (meaning cylinder misfire in 4th cylinder) to look up later even though mechanic told me not to worry about it.

I looked it up and seemed like it was potentially pretty dangerous

Did some research on ford forums and found discussions about people having had a similar error code (as well as other P03 codes for other cylinder misfires) specifically following clutch and flywheel replacement. These forums mentioned crank relearn and misfire monitor neutral profile correction as potential solution.

Went back within the hour with that limited info and mechanic was initially very hesitant to believe that that was the issue or the solution to the problem—he had never heard of a crank relearn on a mustang, he said.

Understandable: he’s reacting as a doctor would if you came in and started spouting off things you think are wrong with you from having looked at web md—i.e., he’s the professional and people who come in with that type of commentary usually have no idea what they’re talking about.

However, he looked on scanner #2, higher tech looking and didn’t see an option for crank relearn.

Might’ve been a snap on scanner (?), not positive on that, but it definitely looked more like this one:

Mechanic cleared code, said maybe it was a glitch since I wasn’t experiencing any engine misfire.

Went home. No problem till next day, check engine came back on.

Later that night, I actually felt the engine misfire (before I experienced it, I wasn’t sure exactly what that’d feel like, so I wasn’t 100% sure if I’d even be able to recognize it, but once it was actually happening, I knew immediately). The feeling was like a vibrating ratatat when depressing the gas pedal, and when I felt that immediately looked at the check engine light and saw that it had began blinking. That all lasted for about 10 seconds, then it was fine again, though the check engine light was still on.

So, then I was worried, so I did more research: texted mechanic that there was a lot of talk about check engine light problem after clutch and flywheel replacement on mustang forums. So, despite me not being a professional mechanic, asked him to look into it again with the key terms crank relearn/misfire monitor neutral profile correction.

See official ford technical service bulletin (TSB) outlining the problem:

Had car towed to shop just to be safe since I’d experienced an actual engine misfire the nigh before

He hooked up the Snap On scanner above and when I got there, he said he thinks I might be right. Cleared the check engine light, then ran the profile correction.

Link vid to people running that profile correction:





Been 2k+ miles and running like a top now, no check engine light has come back, and the car is running great. Note: for a few hundred miles (about 500 or so) after clutch and flywheel replacement, there was slight shudder (nowhere even near what it was like when I first brought it in) in shifting out of first and reverse. However, have read others experienced the same break in period post clutch and flywheel replacement, and shudder went away completely by 1k miles.

Turns out then whenever transmission is removed from engine, the computers inside the car need to be recalibrated.

See 2:06 for what it looks like when your transmission Is separated from the engine to access the clutch and flywheel for replacement:

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