Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[jfccac]

You need one of these, the kind that have the swivel built into the socket. I used the smallest 1/4 swivel I had, the normal kind that still need a socket, and spent like 2 hours tightening those bolt bc I could only get like 1/4 turn at time before having to re-seat the socket. If you get that small one in the pic it will be much quicker

what size is this?

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[rum_punch_ruby]

what size is this?

10mm. if you could find it in 1/4 that would be ideal.

Out of interest, if you were to swap the bolts for socket head cap screws, would it be easier (or even possible) with a ball-end Allen key?

possibly. its not really the bolt head size that's difficult, its the clearance above it and to the sides. you'll need an angle extension either way.

the below pictured wrenches (Home Depot) got a bulk of the work done. In addition I used a 1/4" 10mm socket and swivel attachment to do the rest.

 

[kwikS550]

Overall I'm pretty happy with the Edelbrock tune with one caveat (that may or may not actually be an issue as I haven't even tried to resolve it yet). The car seems to rev hang at about 2k rpms while I'm rolling but off the throttle only to drop down to idle once the car is stopped. I pinged Edelbrock about it and they basically suggested that I make sure that I installed the correct tune they sent me. I honestly don't remember if there was even another tune preloaded on the SCT unit aside from the one they sent me and I loaded onto it.

Hey guys thought I'd follow up and update my post from a couple months ago. I'm sorry it took so long. We have a new addition to the family so I haven't been able to drive or work on my 5.0 as much as I'd like to, but have made some progress!

The Edelbrock tune is good to go and my rev hang issue was likely caused by a leak somewhere in my intake tract. It cleared up after I un/re-installed the factory airbox and installed Ford Racing driver/passenger catch cans.

The catch cans were on my car when it was NA and wanted to reuse them so I ended up cutting up the factory lines and making new ones using the factory Ford ends. They're sealed up tight now.

The airbox got yanked out in order to remove the charcoal filter thingie for slightly better flow.

Oh, and I have Cervini upper/lower grilles with all the mesh installed and a Velossa Bog Mouth so I pulled my bumper off to remove the small bit of grille to increase airflow a bit.

Somewhere in there the rev hang issue went away. The weird thing is that my fuel trims have barely changed so not sure what was going on.

Also!:

I was still getting a bit of boost lag which didn't feel quite right. I remembered the issue I had (and it sounds like others might have had too) on the initial test drive with a lot of boost lag which was solved (or at least improved) by installing clamps on the line from the blower to the bypass valve actuator.

The fit of that line from the blower to the bypass valve actuator never sat right with me. I felt like it was too loose even with the clamps. So what I did was swap it out for a slightly smaller silicone line that fit nice and tight, then put some little T-bolt style clamps on it. Now the boost ramps up much faster & smoother. This is a super easy tweak that I'd recommend to anyone that is experiencing lag with the Edelbrock kit.

Now I have a new problem... 1st & 2nd gear are pretty much useless at full throttle. LOL!

 

[Kona 18]

Now I have a new problem... 1st & 2nd gear are pretty much useless at full throttle. LOL!

1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th are useless on mine unless I have drag tires on, 5th only hooks up if I'm doing 70mph or more

 

[kwikS550]

1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th are useless on mine unless I have drag tires on, 5th only hooks up if I'm doing 70mph or more

Dang man! Are you running the Eforce kit as-is or do you have other mods? Also what tires are you running?

I'm running stock PP wheels with stock size Nitto 555 G2's which seem pretty decent on the street as long as I'm rolling.

Last night I may, or may not have had a run in with a modded SS (the sedan). It sounded very healthy like it had a cam & full exhaust etc. Can't remember our speed but I started at about 4k rpms in 3rd. I gave him the hit and he jumped about a fender before I freight trained by and put a few car lengths on him. The car felt faster than it ever has and didn't seem like it spun at all.

I'm going to need a ton of practice in order to learn how to get this thing off the line from a dig on street though. LOL!

 

[Kona 18]

Dang man! Are you running the Eforce kit as-is or do you have other mods? Also what tires are you running?

I'm running stock PP wheels with stock size Nitto 555 G2's which seem pretty decent on the street as long as I'm rolling.

Last night I may, or may not have had a run in with a modded SS (the sedan). It sounded very healthy like it had a cam & full exhaust etc. Can't remember our speed but I started at about 4k rpms in 3rd. I gave him the hit and he jumped about a fender before I freight trained by and put a few car lengths on him. The car felt faster than it ever has and didn't seem like it spun at all.

I'm going to need a ton of practice in order to learn how to get this thing off the line from a dig on street though. LOL!

Keep in mind I have a 18 with a a10, so my gears are more aggressive than a MT82 or a 6r80

 

[Jobodizo]

1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th are useless on mine unless I have drag tires on, 5th only hooks up if I'm doing 70mph or more

I accidentally hit boost at 70 in 4th the other day. Thought I was gonna loose it. 275 555g2s in back.

 

[Burkey]

I accidentally hit boost at 70 in 4th the other day. Thought I was gonna loose it. 275 555g2s in back.

This is why I’m making the swap. Good times indeed.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

I accidentally hit boost at 70 in 4th the other day. Thought I was gonna loose it. 275 555g2s in back.

I don't have any problem in 4th sometimes I get a little spin in 3rd but not much. These MP4S were definitely a good choice.

 

[Burkey]

I don't have any problem in 4th sometimes I get a little spin in 3rd but not much. These MP4S were definitely a good choice.

You’re running the 2300 kit on the stock TB, Lund tune and stock headers, correct?
How much boost?

 

[Burkey]

10mm. if you could find it in 1/4 that would be ideal.



possibly. its not really the bolt head size that's difficult, its the clearance above it and to the sides. you'll need an angle extension either way.

the below pictured wrenches (Home Depot) got a bulk of the work done. In addition I used a 1/4" 10mm socket and swivel attachment to do the rest.

Can you do us a favour and get a pic of the area that causes issues?
Whilst I have a fairly extensive tool kit, I don’t want to find that I’m stuck without the right tool for the job.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

You’re running the 2300 kit on the stock TB, Lund tune and stock headers, correct?
How much boost?

Supposed to be 11psi max. Car moves the hell out though.

 

[Jobodizo]

Can you do us a favour and get a pic of the area that causes issues?
Whilst I have a fairly extensive tool kit, I don’t want to find that I’m stuck without the right tool for the job.

1.2.7,10 are the hardest. 1 and 2 because of the interior location, 7 and 10 because of the crossover line between the fuel rails that hangs over them. I personally did it with the “you’ll hate yourself” swivel. It was a PITA, but I’ve done worse. Honestly for me getting the stock manifold off with the connectors at the back was the hardest part, and you’ve obviously already done that.

 

[Burkey]

1.2.7,10 are the hardest. 1 and 2 because of the interior location, 7 and 10 because of the crossover line between the fuel rails that hangs over them. I personally did it with the “you’ll hate yourself” swivel. It was a PITA, but I’ve done worse. Honestly for me getting the stock manifold off with the connectors at the back was the hardest part, and you’ve obviously already done that.

Thanks for that.
Yup, those IMRC connectors SUCK!

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

1.2.7,10 are the hardest. 1 and 2 because of the interior location, 7 and 10 because of the crossover line between the fuel rails that hangs over them. I personally did it with the “you’ll hate yourself” swivel. It was a PITA, but I’ve done worse. Honestly for me getting the stock manifold off with the connectors at the back was the hardest part, and you’ve obviously already done that.

I just took the fuel rail off the intake took maybe 3 minutes total to get out. Pull it way way forward and the connectors come off in a jiffy.

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