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Debris in Brake Reservoir

Biggsy

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Yes, a manual. Car has 1500 miles. I doubt its had a chance to get too dirty. I will see if I can fish some out. I was toying on replacing fluid with Motul so it would get a flush. The reservoir separation is a good idea that I may implement.
Yea just something to think about. Lol you’ll be surprised how quickly the clutch fluid can get dirty. It’s amount of engagement and not by miles. 1500 miles on highway….double clutching will produce more dirt than not double clutching. Not the end of the world though. People have had their car for almost 10 years since the platform has been out and haven’t done it. All options are valid.
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Biggsy

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Is the car a manual?

If so then I’m sure it’s because the clutch master cylinder and brake share the same reservoir. Clutch fluid gets dirty like that. That is one of the reasons some divorce the brake and clutch reservoirs. It keeps the brake reservoir clean. I divorced my systems and my clutch fluid looks the same while the brake is clean. It isn’t “bad” but clutch fluid change is done as routine maintenance every few frack days.
Alright. So now I am confused - how changing the brake fluid goes in this case. Do I need to bleed the brakes and the clutch as well?
 

Biggsy

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Alright. So now I am confused - how changing the brake fluid goes in this case. Do I need to bleed the brakes and the clutch as well?
I remember reading a few years ago on this forum that there are people that do both if they are having a soft brake pedal or dead (doesn’t return all the way up) clutch pedal. But for the most part if doing a brake job just bleeding the brakes should be fine.
 

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murick

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I remember reading a few years ago on this forum that there are people that do both if they are having a soft brake pedal or dead (doesn’t return all the way up) clutch pedal. But for the most part if doing a brake job just bleeding the brakes should be fine.
If the clutch and brakes are all supplied from one fluid reservoir, I would expect that the systems are connected. So I would expect that changing the (brake) fluid should affect the clutch. What is not clear to me is the way it does.

Is it guaranteed that changing the fluid by bleeding the brakes changes the fluid in the clutch system too? If not, I would expect that the changing procedure should include some kind of clutch bleeding as well. Otherwise there will be no way to change the fluid in the clutch.
If the debris from the clutch can get into reservoir, I would expect it could get into the brake system as well. Flushing the clutch part then looks even more important than the brakes part.
 

Biggsy

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If the clutch and brakes are all supplied from one fluid reservoir, I would expect that the systems are connected. So I would expect that changing the (brake) fluid should affect the clutch. What is not clear to me is the way it does.

Is it guaranteed that changing the fluid by bleeding the brakes changes the fluid in the clutch system too? If not, I would expect that the changing procedure should include some kind of clutch bleeding as well. Otherwise there will be no way to change the fluid in the clutch.
If the debris from the clutch can get into reservoir, I would expect it could get into the brake system as well. Flushing the clutch part then looks even more important than the brakes part.
From what I’ve read before you are somewhat correct but it’s still 2 different systems. To bleed brakes, you apply pressure to the reservoir to push the air through the brake system and out the calipers bleed screw. To bleed the clutch master cylinder you apply a vacuum to suck the air from the reservoir. You are connecting to the same opening but removing the air differently.

yes, changing the brake fluid changes the clutch fluid also. Another reason why I divorced mine is because I run SRF brake fluid for track and it has been reported that SRF and the clutch master cylinder don’t play nice(premature failure) so it is advised to use OEM Motocraft LV brake fluid for the clutch system.

Again, a bad brake bleed can lead to a weak clutch pedal from air getting into the system but I don’t know how common it is. I don’t know how much the average driver bleeds their clutch system. I do mine based on track events.

someone else with more knowledge than me can chime in lol
 

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Very very clean
 

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No problem! Pretty straight forward. Bought a brake reservoir from an auto car. The brake reservoirs come as an assembly with the master cylinder attached from ford. You can buy brand new or from a scrap yard. I bought 2 from Midway Mustang. Then you need a remote reservoir for the clutch. The popular one is the GM part for a 2008 GTO but is getting harder to find and cost more than necessary. I’ve seen others use Willwood options. Then you just need hose that can withstand brake fluid. Last is a mounting solution. Some have zip tied the remote reservoir to the brake reservoir but I wanted a hard mounted solution so a simple angle stock did the trick.

Also no need to replace the brake master cylinder. Just detach the reservoir from the master cylinder. When doing so, be mindful not to dry out or get air into the MC otherwise you’ll have to bleed it. Whole thing ”should” take less than an hour.
Here is my set up
IMG_1157.jpeg
IMG_1166.jpeg
Does divorcing the clutch fluid line from the brake reservoir improve the operation of the clutch at all?
 

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Biggsy

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Does divorcing the clutch fluid line from the brake reservoir improve the operation of the clutch at all?
In a way yes. Less chance of air getting in when bleeding the brakes.
 

ice445

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My manual car has this too. Not a ton after years of use, but what little made it there I just wiped up with a microfiber. Not a real solution per se but most of the debris seems to have been removed.
 

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I’ve never had debris in mine, but I’ve completely flushed the entire system four times now in 8500 miles. As soon as it starts turning dark yellow, I flush all four calipers, starting at the right rear and ending at the left front.
 

ice445

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I’ve never had debris in mine, but I’ve completely flushed the entire system four times now in 8500 miles. As soon as it starts turning dark yellow, I flush all four calipers, starting at the right rear and ending at the left front.
Yeah that makes sense, mine is still the original fluid from 4 years ago. It does seem like any debris in the system slowly works its way to the cap area which is convenient.
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