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Can't find good ground in trunk mustang 2017

wildcatgoal

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A car can't really "not" support an electrical circuit so long as the wiring is sufficiently sized. Sometimes the signal the amp receives is too high of a voltage (high level vs. low level is just a reference to voltage) which causes the amp to go into protect on bass notes. Can check on that.
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g3lo

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Yeah how do I check high voltage? And if that's the cause how do I limit the voltage but still have the bass?
 

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Can start by turning your gain down to as low as it'll go and see what happens. The process for testing this isn't rocket science. The basic approach is that you will need a DMM and then check voltage of the input signal with various base sine waves and also try pink noise playing at 3/4 (or just over) volume from the source (let's say 22 on the premium radio; don't know if the base radio has a different volume range). If voltage outside the range of what the amplifier is capable of accepting, then you are overtaxing it and it'll go into protect mode. You will need to reduce the voltage going into the amplifier - your local car audio shop will have the appropriate parts for that. And at this point, honestly, it's time to take it to a professional.
 

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If I turn it down any lower I hear no bass...
Honestly it's sounding a lot like a signal or amp issue. But I'd have to see it and usually Alpine doesn't make bad amps. I'd hope you got the amp from an authorized reseller so they'd warranty it, if it turns out that's needed. I did have one amp do something like this in the past, it was a ZED Minotaur that had to have a power switching component replaced. With the compact Alpine amps, you may not even be able to replace that single component without replacing the entire board. Swapping amps now is the easiest way to check. Always disconnect the battery, make the amp power connections, then reconnect the battery. You want the spark to happen at the battery, not the amp. Lots of people pop their amps by connecting it with the battery negative connected.
 

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g3lo

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Got it as a gift. However, Alpine said they will repair it as I have the birth certificate which shows less than a year.

The issue is, they said if they don't find anything wrong with it, they will send it back.

I don't want to waste time and money shipping it not knowing it's an amp issue.
 

wildcatgoal

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Got it as a gift. However, Alpine said they will repair it as I have the birth certificate which shows less than a year.

The issue is, they said if they don't find anything wrong with it, they will send it back.

I don't want to waste time and money shipping it not knowing it's an amp issue.
Will cost you $40 to ship it there and back... worth it.
 
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g3lo

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Yeah I'll try.

Do they typically replace it if they can't find an issue to be safe? Or just send back same unit?
 

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The audiocontrol unit should have an indication of the voltage it is outputting, though the Alpine should be stable with up to 10volts.

Do you know anyone that has an amp that you can borrow to see if the issue replicates?

Either way you will het the same heatsink, if there is something wrong they will replace the board.
 
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Hmm I don't have anyone. LC2i is stable up to 40 volts. When I measured volts using DMM placing one probe on ground of LC2i the other on power wire, I was getting a reading of 11-12. When placing probes on amps power/ground the reading was showing 20-25.
 

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Hmm I don't have anyone. LC2i is stable up to 40 volts. When I measured volts using DMM placing one probe on ground of LC2i the other on power wire, I was getting a reading of 11-12. When placing probes on amps power/ground the reading was showing 20-25.
I have been beating my head for the last week, and I honestly cant think of anything else without physically working on the car.

What fuse value is under the hood? Try reducing the LC2Is output.

Other then those, the woofer has been ruled out, and that leaves the amplifier. The amp should have no issue running that woofer as that is what its advertised.
 
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Audio control advised the following:

"You need to put a load on the factory system. The systems that are put in the newer Mustangs are designed to only work properly if they see a load on the output, i.e. a speaker.
The LC2i doesn’t put any load on the output so the factory system doesn’t think a speaker is there.
Because of that, it’s probably sending s full signal out because it has no resistance. Those systems also are notorious for sending out a super high frequency, up around 22k that tend to either blow amps, or blow tweeters.
Most of the time, factory systems don’t send any signal at all, but in some cases, like this one, they send a signal that tend to overpower aftermarket amps, or at the very least, put them in protect.

You will need to do one of two things.

You can purchase our new AC-LGD load generating device to stabilize your factory system:

http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/accessories/ac-lgd/"
 

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Well thats strange, but they know their stuff, very surprised that nobody else has had that issue. Ive used dummy loads to test amplifiers but I never would have thought about the stock radio needing a dummy load. Liek they say, "you learn something new every day"!
 
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g3lo

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Yeah I'm surprised as well. Knowing this is a mustang forum, I would have thought someone would at least have the same issue. I have owned subwoofer systems in cars all the time and this is the first time I came across the issue. Knowing my equipment was brand new and wiring done right, the first thing I thought of was car not compatible or causing issues. I just thought car was brand new as well, but I thought it may have compatibility issues. Was a hunch from the ghetgo. In any case, as s was on as I mentioned mustang, they were like ahhh! That's what it is. Lol. I'll report back as soon as I test it.
 

wildcatgoal

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Wow... didn't think of that. Didn't know these cars had that issue. Some German cars are like this.
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