camber bolts

[thornclaw]

perusing the threads here, there is generally a very noticeable bias against camber bolts. mostly, no good explanation is given as to why. Likely they are more difficult to adjust. Also, you would likely not be able to apply as much negative camber as a plate, as the wheel may eventually rub against the shock. However, they will not add any NVH like a plate will. For someone who plans on setting the camber one time and to a nonextreme degree and leaving it, it seems like the bolt would be a good option. Has any one had a camber bolt fail? Any real world experience/feedback would be appreciated.

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[kz]

Where's the idea that camber plate will add NVH from ? (and how ??)

I believe people don't like camber bolts because they are simply inferior solution - need to have smaller diameter than stock bolts to work and there is potential for slip (and then both camber and toe change).

 

[boB]

The recommended way to adjust camber (per the service manual) is to file/grind the holes in the strut into slots. The small amount specified will allow small changes in camber.
I have used factory camber bolts in another vehicle, they were just normal bolts with a slightly smaller diameter in the center section. They worked fine for 11 years.

I have no experience with camber plates, I did not need that much adjustment.

 

[PC_GUARD]

My understanding of camber bolts are, they slip. Maximum Motorsports camber plates are about as good as youre going to get and are easy to use.

 

[WItoTX]

A friend had his fail at the track. Another track friend has never had an issue. Identical cars, two different results.

 

[Arknsawchuck]

A friend had his fail at the track. Another track friend has never had an issue. Identical cars, two different results.

Maybe the one that failed was over torqued. They do take a lesser torque than the stock bolts. Or just a bad bolt, there’s no telling really.

 

[boB]

The original bolts are torqued to 184 lb*ft, the adjustable ones are 125 lb*ft. That should tell us the bolt is probably not as strong and the clamp load is a lot less.

 

[WItoTX]

Maybe the one that failed was over torqued. They do take a lesser torque than the stock bolts. Or just a bad bolt, there’s no telling really.

This is my hypothesis. But the one that failed, he is meticulous to the point when he couldn't get his torque wrench on the hub bolts, so he bought several special extensions to torque it down rather than just use a wrench. Like you said, no telling really.

 

[LethalSteveG]

Camber bolts are a great inexpensive source if you need a little extra on the camber with an alignment. Mostly for someone who is just lowering their car and want to make sure it's set correctly.

If you plan on tracking, road racing, or heavy on the turns, that is where camber plates really shine. I was able to get my camber set perfectly but I do a lot of turning the wheel driving. You will get more adjustment and it is easier on whomever is setting the camber too.

I run the STEEDA ones on mine and they added no noise and very easy to install/align. These are the ones I run on mine

Steeda Adjustable Front Camber Plates (2015-2022 Mustangs) - 555-8139

These align a 1" lowering spring got me to the specs I needed.

 

[thornclaw]

thinking this through, a couple of points present themselves

a) there has to be more nvh with a plate because the stock rubber bushing in the mount is replaced with a bearing so that more noise will be transmitted from the suspension to the chassis

b) it seems that if slippage of the camber bolt is the problem then finding the bolt with the maximum torque spec would be the way to go

c) as an aside im not sure why you need a cammed lobe and special washer on the bolt. if you just used a simple bolt with a smaller diameter, that would allow enough play between the strut and spindle to allow camber adjustment

 

[kz]

thinking this through, a couple of points present themselves

a) there has to be more nvh with a plate because the stock rubber bushing in the mount is replaced with a bearing so that more noise will be transmitted from the suspension to the chassis

b) it seems that if slippage of the camber bolt is the problem then finding the bolt with the maximum torque spec would be the way to go

c) as an aside im not sure why you need a cammed lobe and special washer on the bolt. if you just used a simple bolt with a smaller diameter, that would allow enough play between the strut and spindle to allow camber adjustment

a) not really - you have literally a spring with a damper in that path, so not like you're replacing rubber bushing with an aluminum puck.

b) torque (or clamp really) is a function of diameter and material used for it, and then you want to make sure that the clamp doesn't destroy what it is being clamped on (in this case strut) - contact surface matters. So yes, it can be higher but apparently isn't.

c) you don't need a cammed lobe but lobe allows you for little finer adjustment (or better controlled) than just sliding a knuckle in the strut.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Having had a well-torqued stock strut to spindle nut fall off, the only thing holding the car together was the splined bolt (which didn't back out), so I'd be reluctant to recommend a bolt which isn't splined (because it needs to rotate to act as a crash bolt) and which has less than stock clamping torque. My current coilovers aren't splined, but at least I can torque them down hard enough to crush diamonds with the stock bolts.

A weaker solution like this is good enough until it isn't. Crash bolts are a a lazy fix for geometry. The stock bolt is thick, splined, and has a high clamping force for really good engineering reasons.

Neither of the two sets of camber plates I've used have added NVH.

Camber plates are faster and easier set, and they retain the most secure fastener for the strut to spindle, so definitely the recommended choice. Choose whatever you like for your car, but don't expect those of us recommending camber plates to change our tune on the issue.

 

[thornclaw]

just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.

 

[NightmareMoon]

just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.

no so fast there cowboy…

if you hack up the towers with power tools, will you weaken them in the process? Goal isn’t just getting the camber, the car still has to be structurally sound afterwards. Tower failure is kind of a buzz kill, and its a real concern.

 

[kz]

just throwing this out there…
has anyone tried ovaling out the three holes that the strut mount bolts come up through the chassis? that would probably allow some camber adjustment.

Never seen a pic of a strut that came through a strut tower (to NightmareMoon's point ) ? I've had someone suggest it in allegedly reputable alignment shop. Quit going there.

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