Brakemotive rotors

[brandonc]

Got on their Ebay store and found this link for the non PP ecoboost. http://https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291959915620
Seen others say that the ones they received where PoweStop branded and boxed. For that price I couldn’t imagine them being powerstop. Messaged them and all they told me was “We appreciate your interest in our parts. Our parts are a Kinetic brand“. I’m not sure what to make of that. Is powerstop a Kinetic brand?? If not is kinetic a good brand?? Any reviews/expierence with em??

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/291959915620

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[maddawg57]

Got on their Ebay store and found this link for the non PP ecoboost. http://https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/291959915620
Seen others say that the ones they received where PoweStop branded and boxed. For that price I couldn’t imagine them being powerstop. Messaged them and all they told me was “We appreciate your interest in our parts. Our parts are a Kinetic brand“. I’m not sure what to make of that. Is powerstop a Kinetic brand?? If not is kinetic a good brand?? Any reviews/expierence with em??

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/291959915620

They are made by Power Stop.

 

[Fordever]

I have spent a crap load of time searching on ebay for the proper 'BrakeMotive' rotors for my GT premium. I can find rears, but no fronts????:doh: I must be doing something wrong. Alls I can find is V6/eco or GT PP for the fronts or for a full front/rear kit.:frusty:

What is the part number for the GT premium non PP fronts? Or a link to a packaged front and rear setup???

Thanx in advance...

 

[ChristianDev]

I have spent a crap load of time searching on ebay for the proper 'BrakeMotive' rotors for my GT premium. I can find rears, but no fronts????:doh: I must be doing something wrong. Alls I can find is V6/eco or GT PP for the fronts or for a full front/rear kit.:frusty:

What is the part number for the GT premium non PP fronts? Or a link to a packaged front and rear setup???

Thanx in advance...

Looks like they’re out of stock

 

[Fordever]

Looks like they’re out of stock

Thanx......

Don't care for the pads... Just rotors will do.

 

[JOKER M1]

Thanx......

Don't care for the pads... Just rotors will do.

You can also call them, great customer service on the phone.

 

[5.0_SD]

Yes call them...when I looked I had trouble...calling them I got EXACTLY what was needed...and for those who doubt these are PowerStop brakes, I have a question...if they aren't PowerStops then why was this in the box?

 

[Fordever]

Looks like they’re out of stock

You can also call them, great customer service on the phone.

Just called....YEP...outta stock. Was told to call back in a week or 2 for the proper stock number...

Very helpful service desk...

 

[Stripler]

I installed these on my 2016 GTPP last weekend. I got them during the Black Friday sale last year with the intent to install them this Spring.

My OEM brakes had a ton of life left, but they were very noisey, dusty, and grabby. For the price, I couldn't pass on the Brakemotive brakes. These are great for my needs. Less dust, no noise, and way less grabby (if that's a word). Braking is much smoother over the stock rotors and pads.

I also flushed my brake fluid with the one person method for the first time and can't believe I never tried it before. It was much easier than using my mighty vac and/or the two person method. Fluid change isn't needed with the install, but it was about that time for my brake fluid.

 

[JOKER M1]

Looks great, what was your 1 person method cause I wanna do mine soon

 

[Stripler]

Looks great, what was your 1 person method cause I wanna do mine soon

I was skeptical, but after watching some YouTube videos, I believed in the physics. And it was faster for me than using a two person method or my might vac.

1. Take a container (I used a plastic jar that held about 25 oz and had a plastic screw on lid). 20 oz or bigger soda bottles are popular.

2. drill a hole in the lid a bit bigger than the diameter of the tubing you're using to bleed the brakes. On my brakes, a 3/16" inner diameter PVC tubing from home improvement store was perfect. About 5 ft of tubing should be good. I think I bought a 10' roll for $4.

3. put one end of the tubing into the container so that it reaches the bottom and then put a zip tie around the tubing inside the container lid so that it will not pull up through the hole you drilled

4. Important: fill your collection container about 1/3 of the way with brake fluid before you start the flush. This will ensure air isn't pulled up as you pump the brakes.

5. Important: route the tubing so that it goes upwards from your caliper bleeder valves and then back down to the ground where you placed your container below the brakes. This way any air bubbles in your bleeder tubing will collect in the portion of the tube that is above your bleeder valves. Gravity will keep the air from getting back into your brake lines. I routed mine up about 10-12 inches (around springs, struts, whatever) then down to the ground).

6. Now simply pump your brakes until clean fluid with no air is coming out of bleeder valves. I'd do about 8 presses, check the bleeder line, refill your brake reservoir, and repeat as needed.

Notes:
1. do not let the brake fluid in the reservoir get too low or you will pull air into the system and need to start over
2. start at rear passenger --> rear driver side --> front passenger --> front driver side.
3. make sure the hole in the lid of your container where the tube goes through allows some gap or simply drill another "breather" hole so that pressure doesn't build up in your collection container.
4. leave the cap off the brake reservoir while you do this. Do not fill reservoir to the very top btwn pumping your brakes to avoid any burping of brake fluid into your engine bay (you can probably fill to a inch from top without issues)
5. Do not fully depress the brake pedal all the way to the floor while flushing the system or you can damage the brakes
6. The front brakes have two lines each that need to be bled, the rears go quicker because it is just one each.
7. Obvious, but don't fill your reservoir to the very top when done, there is a line indicating max and min fill level. Like with oil, overfilling is not good (for different reasons). Your brake fluid level will actually probably go up over time (like two years) as water is absorbed into the system.

I used a bit over 2 qts of DOT 4 fluid to flush the whole system. It might be possible with just 2, but I'd have 3 qts on hand just in case. What you don't use, you can return if the container is sealed.

 

[JOKER M1]

[MENTION=16024]Stripler[/MENTION] thanks for the detailed instructions and your important notes, sounds simple enough. I’ll keep this handy for when I get ready. Thanks again.

 

[Nagare]

[MENTION=16024]Stripler[/MENTION] and anyone else that has done the bleeding. If you're only working on the front calipers, do you still need to bleed the rears? I'm going to be swapping in GT calipers in the next month or so so I know I need to take care of the front at least.

 

[5.0_SD]

[MENTION=28654]Nagare[/MENTION] all of the brakes are part of a single system, so yes you need to do all 4.

 

[Houston Kid]

I did the single person bleed this weekend when installing my new Brembo six piston front calipers. I used the below listed bottle from Autozone and job done. Zero issues. The bottle has a magnet to stuck it to the strut to get it above the bleed valve. Instructions are in with the bottle but I did not use the little adapters. I attached the hose directly to the bleed valve. It was tough to get it on the first time, but then it stretched a bit and was easier for the reaming 3 but still a air tight seal.

I replaced only the front calipers so no need to bleed all 4. I started with the passenger side outside bleeder valve, then passenger inside, driver's outside, and last the driver's inside. I kept the reservoir topped off and no problems.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...eeder/oem-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit/46839_0_0

Worth the $8.49 plus tax for a perfect fit and magnet. I think Amazon had it cheaper by a $1 but I wanted it immediately.

The break in the system is only in the front and you are not removing all of the fluid from the line. If you think it is going to take you a few minutes to get the brake line into the new caliper, plug the brake line so you don't loose a bunch of fluid. I mounted the new caliper first, then removed the line from the old caliper and immediately screwed it into the new caliper. Minimal fluid loss.

Being that the calipers were completely dry, new old stock, it did take a bit of fluid to fill them. I would pump the pedal 4 times firmly to stop, then check the line coming out of the caliper. The fist 4 pumps produced very little fluid in the line. Then then next 4 got it moving. I used a rubber mallet to tap the calipers when checking the line to help dislodge any air in the caliper.

As soon as there were no more air bubbles in the line, I closed the bleeder valve and moved to the next one. My brake pedal feels just like it did with the OEM calipers so I am confident the bleed was successful.

Mounted similar to the pic below.

As a note of caution, brake fluid will bubble paint in no time. I learned a trick from bleeding my brakes on my MTB. Rubbing alcohol neutralizes brake fluid.

As soon as I attached the brake line to the new caliper, I dumped a bunch of rubbing alcohol on the calipers and wiped them down. Zero issues with paint peeling off.

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