A Cautionary Tale, 2018 Mustag gt active Exhaust system!

[Tish]

You should check both fuses first and if blown replace and if the go again then check the wiring.

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[NorthernBeast]

You should check both fuses first and if blown replace and if the go again then check the wiring.

The weird part is that it will work and then stop working. If I turn off the car and open the door to reset the system and start up again it will work and then stop again after a few minutes of it working fine....any ideas?

 

[Tish]

Here is the way Ford says to reprogram it after replacing the mufflers.Hope it helps but it sounds like you have an intermitent problem and those are the worse.

 

[udcvsean]

For those who ran into this problem with their active exhaust after installing a mid-pipe, can you please share the exact x-pipe/h-pipe? I noticed the Steeda h-pipe for 15-17 is longer than the 18-19. Wondering if it’s possible these issues are due to longer mid-pipes...

 

[NorthernBeast]

For those who ran into this problem with their active exhaust after installing a mid-pipe, can you please share the exact x-pipe/h-pipe? I noticed the Steeda h-pipe for 15-17 is longer than the 18-19. Wondering if it’s possible these issues are due to longer mid-pipes...

I used the Ford Performance X-Pipe

 

[500PLUS]

Right I had this problem
Took 3 months to sort as rear right wiring loom burnt through
So needed new part 8 week delivery
I had mishimoto x pipe fitted
So the fitting is critical to leave at least 15mm on right hand side active valve connector
Left side connector is lower so no problem
My exhaust expanded approx 12mm after 60 miles trapped wire burnt out
Car stuck on track with x pipe for 3 months
Neighbours loved me
We refitted x pipe cutting more pipe away
Note u must leave space for expanion when hot

The U.K. owner book does not say fuse 34 is used
So wasn’t aware it existed as part of active exhaust
2 trips to Ford and they were clueless even after lap top reset quoted £600 to fix
Idiots as was the fuse took 5 seconds to sort
Engine light that was on whole time reset it’s self after few days
Now works fine

 

[Turian]

I would like to thank everyone on this thread .I checked fuse 34, and I checked the passenger side exhaust after installing my x pipe. It looked like there was plenty of clearance after the install. However, the heat expansion caused the wiring to get pushed into the bumper. I was able to get the xpipe welded in, and the mufflers correctly aligned. Then I replaced the fuse, and wrapped up the thankfully, exposed, but not burnt or cut wiring. Knowing what was happening ahead of time allowed me to not ride around and further damage the wiring. I got it taken care of quickly, thanks mustang fans!!!

 

[19ROUSH/RS3]

Sorry to hear that everyone's having these problems. But most folks on this board are handy enough to swap out a catback and do basic wire repair, so that's good.

I think it would be helpful to those with 18-19's to post what the active exhaust motor reset procedure actually is. That would help those who inevitably will have this same problem as swapping exhausts on a Mustang is almost as common as putting in gas.

So, My H-Pipe install on my 2019 RS3 went pretty much the same way, so I was VERY happy to find this thread, since "Toro73" experence mirrored my own. I was able to get a new pig tail from the Dealer ($45.00) in one day, and after making the repair and replacing the fuse, the active exhaust (FoMoCo) started working again without the reset procedure. I would advise anyone who is planning on installing either an H or X pipe to disconnect the active exhaust Harness from the Motor itself first, before doing anything else to save yourself the headache of cut wires

 

[Stymee]

Glad i have standard exhaust, my buddy had similar problems plus the spring getting loose over and over and rattling

 

[sabtaj1]

Well... glad I seen this. Steeda x pipe here. Exhaust stopped functioning today. Wires rubbed n fuse popped. Easy fix but exactly as described. Thanks for the post! 4k miles and oops. Took plug apart and shrink tubed the wires, then wrapped with black ford loom tape, then the heat wrap and adjusted exhaust 1/2 farther inward. Then re positioned wires, replaced #34 fuse and back in buisness.

 

[Arheos]

Hey all - I am in the middle of issue myself :/

However ------ Has anyone also experienced a power loss???

In summary:
Steeda H pipe install that eventually wore down in the end:

I ordered a new part to replace the wiring as there was nothing left to solder.

Since it happened, I got the active exhaust errors, and some more:

P2001 ( Mustang P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open )
http://p2001.enginetroublecode.com/ford-extreme
https://www.troublecodes.net/p2codes/p2001/

P2000
https://www.troublecodes.net/p2codes/p2000/

and the active exhaust related ones:

P26C6

Exhaust Flow Control Valve “A” Control Circuit Low

P26C5

Exhaust Flow Control Valve “A” Control Circuit/Open

I am hoping after I replace the parts and probably the fuses noted (34 and 42) then it will sort itself out?

Acceleration for 0-60 is coming up to 6.0 and I can feel it is not pulling properly. Will I need an ECU reset as well, would that even fix the issue?

Any thoughts on the P2001 and P2000 error codes?

Not sure how much I should be worried re loss of power and if it will be fixed automatically after all this?


Any help much appreciated.

 

[HiTekExec]

The weird part is that it will work and then stop working. If I turn off the car and open the door to reset the system and start up again it will work and then stop again after a few minutes of it working fine....any ideas?

There was another thread on this some time ago... I had the same on/off issue last summer; the problem was the distance on the wire harness to the muffler at the clamp on the driver's side. looked good but was causing the intermittent problem, but not touching enough to burn through and short and blow the fuse. Clearance there is tight and all it took was a slight push to the right to correct. You could peel back the heat shielding, separate and rewrap wires, but just the slight shift might correct. It's not the fact that we have H or X-pipes (I prefer the Steeda H with our active ... sounds sooo good); for me and at least a few others, it was just the minor shift that likely occurred while aligning tips following the install; probably just brought it close enough to start weakening the interior insulation.

 

[gtmorgan23]

I just had this issue happened. After searching the forum I was able to determine a fix. The passenger side wiring had rubbed against the body and one of the wires looks to be shorted out. I wrapped the wire in electrical wire and bent the lip so now they don’t rub each other. I also noticed a 15 amp fuse was blown so I’m replacing that. Hopefully this fixes the issue.
I’m guessing after the Steeda H-Pipe was put on it pushed the wiring connecter further back just enough so it rubbed.

 

[edrenaline]

There is a guy I found with a good Youtube channel, forget the name, but he said this is caused by not unplugging the motors before installing the xpipe. When it gets installed, it usually pushes the mufflers back towards the rear of the car and puts stress on those connectors. Sorry if someone already mentioned this

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