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89Trooper's Garage - Modification Journal

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89Trooper

89Trooper

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Petcock Drain Kit Install

*Click on any picture for a larger image*

Date completed: 4/23/16

I decided to add the Petcock Drain Kit directly from Mishimoto for my catch can.

I removed the plug from the bottom using an 8mm Allen wrench and installed the fitting included in the kit in its place. Once tight, the fitting sticks up maybe 1/8" into the can, so obviously the can would have to fill up past that point before it will drain. So (after tightly installed in the catch can) I used a dremel to take away the end of the plastic fitting until it was level with the bottom of the can. I then attached the entire length of hose to the fitting using a black zip tie.

At this point, I wasn't sure where I would run the hose TO, but I think it ended up working perfectly! :thumbsup:

I ran the hose down from the fitting on the bottom of the can. The zip tie you can see in the picture just helps keep a nice bend in the tube... there is no tension on it (and is hidden when the radiator cover is reinstalled). The hose then runs down neatly in a gap next to the windshield washer tank:

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This is the view from underneath of the hose running down. The "white" on the right of the picture is the wheel well liner:

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I installed the petcock here (I was ok with white zip ties since you can't see them :)). I also drilled a hole in the bracket of the water tank to tie the hose to, to give it some rigidity:

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I drilled a 3/4" hole in the plastic here for the tube to come through, and used 3 zip ties (so there are 3 heads) to keep the tube taught.

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It is very secure and very rigid... and also completely protected. To turn the petcock, all I will have to do is turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, reach in, and it's easily accessible!

Oil will obviously fill up the hose all the way down to the petcock along with the catch can itself, giving some more capacity. Sara from Mishimoto assured me that the hose that comes with the kit is oil-resistant and that oil won't soak into the hose from sitting in the line. :thumbsup:
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twiggr

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Part numbers for fasteners.

According to my dealership, the part numbers for the fasteners you will need are as follows:
(4) W715060*S450B ------Screw
(4) W712160*S300 --------Nut
(4) W718025*S439 --------Bolt

*Click on any picture for a larger image*

Date completed: 1/19/15

Cost: $93.00 (Metal K-Brace, plastic shield with access door, hardware)

Just like with some of the upper braces, unless you ordered a Performance Pack car, the 20" rim option, or a convertible, you do not get the K-Brace that is installed under the car.

Even if you do not want the extra bracing, this installs SO EASILY and afterward you will have the access panel to get to the oil filter! That alone is worth it!

First you'll need to buy some parts. Here is a picture of the two new pieces that you'll have to buy. The metal piece on top is part number FR3Z-5025-A, and the plastic shield is part number FR3Z-6P013-B. The second picture shows how the two parts install as a unit, and the third picture is a comparison to the non-Performance Pack shield at the bottom of the picture.

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To remove the old shield (as you would have to do for every oil change), you will have to remove four (4) bolts using a 7mm socket, and two (2) bolts using a 10mm socket. You will need to use the 7mm ones for the new install, but the 10mm ones are not reused. Here is a picture with the shield installed, and another with it removed (you can see where the new brace will install - there is a pink mark next to all of the threaded holes from the factory).

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You will also need some additional hardware. I wasn't able to get these from the dealer, so I can't give you part numbers. You'll need six (6) M10-1.5 x 25 bolts. I bought some Class 10.9 flanged steel cap screws. You will also need three (3) additional screws like the ones to remove the original plastic shield. Both are shown here.

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Here is a test-fit of the metal brace to make sure that all six of the new bolts thread in easily.

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And here it is completely installed. You'll need four (4) of the screws that are in my hand above to attach the new plastic piece to the metal brace, two (2) are re-installed in the front of the new panel, and one (1) is needed to keep the access door closed. IMPORTANT: don't tighten anything until every bolt is started, and until you make sure the hole for the access door lines up where it needs to be. Torque for the six (6) bolts is 42 ft-lbs, just like for the strut tower brace in the engine compartment.

Ojr8Djem.jpg


Here are some pics of the access door open and closed. How nice it will be to change my oil next time! :)

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cgreen5150

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I would love to see the pictures for the write up above. Am I the only one who can't see them on the page? (I am using Windows 10)....
 

Rebellion

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I would love to see the pictures for the write up above. Am I the only one who can't see them on the page? (I am using Windows 10)....
I don't think it's you, I can't see them either with any of my PC's.

Please post them pics again, I'd like to perform this install (the lower brace).
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