2020 Procharger Stage II Install

[DrPepper1970]

Going to install a stage II P-1SC kit on my 2020 GT this weekend. Had a few questions and also wondering if anyone had any tips or things to be mindful of.

Any bolts that should get threadlocker or loctite?

Will I need to perform a KAM reset or crank relearn, or does the tune install do what's needed?

Will I need to add more coolant, assuming I reuse all I drain?

Thank you,
Jerry

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[Mustangfreek]

Following..I have a P1x and just about everything to get it on..

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Anything that spins should have loc-tit..... and anything you don't wanna come off, might as well have just a dap of thread locker. Thats just me.

 

[Jaywebs]

No need for crank relearn. Yes, you will reuse all of the drained coolant. The install is very straight forward as the directions are very good. Depending on which bypass valve you got "the red race" can be a bit of a pain to make fit correctly. It's extremely tight but it does fit. Locktight everything imo. Also, the hose clamps that they provide are a bit to be desired for.

 

[silverbullet85]

I upgraded my clamps also, the ones included are not good. I ordered from procharger directly, could have got them cheaper from summit but didn't want the hassle of figuring out 4 different tbolt clamps

 

[schmeky]

I think heavy duty T-bolt clamps are practically a necessity. I never installed the clamps supplied by PC.

I have never had a leak or a hose blow off in 6K miles of being boosted.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

I think heavy duty T-bolt clamps are practically a necessity. I never installed the clamps supplied by PC.

I have never had a leak or a hose blow off in 6K miles of being boosted.

The irony is that I personally run over 30psi of boost through my worm clamps, and have never had one come off. Actually it SUCKS to take the tubes apart, cause I spray them with window cleaner before I put them together, and its like the bond to the metal tube. I have to use a pick tool to get them apart.

The #1 reason a worm clamp fails, is that it's been over-tightened. (fails at the gear). They just need to be snug, then let the "bead" on the bead roll do the work.

Nothing against Tbolts, just super annoying to take off if you don't have a 11mm and some sort of cordless impact. you will be there all day.

 

[silverbullet85]

I've personally had a charge pipe come off with the supplied clamps, they are not great quality and I don't want to deal with having to remove my facia just to fix a boost leak when I can install a quality clamp and be done with it. Also they are easier to remove (in my experience) than worm clamps.

 

[Toy Cobra]

Its a straight forward install that I did in my garage over a weekend. Everything you need is included with the kit.

 

[gimmie11s]

I think heavy duty T-bolt clamps are practically a necessity. I never installed the clamps supplied by PC.

I have never had a leak or a hose blow off in 6K miles of being boosted.

Not at all necessary on boost levels under 15 psi.

The irony is that I personally run over 30psi of boost through my worm clamps, and have never had one come off. Actually it SUCKS to take the tubes apart, cause I spray them with window cleaner before I put them together, and its like the bond to the metal tube. I have to use a pick tool to get them apart.

The #1 reason a worm clamp fails, is that it's been over-tightened. (fails at the gear). They just need to be snug, then let the "bead" on the bead roll do the work.

Nothing against Tbolts, just super annoying to take off if you don't have a 11mm and some sort of cordless impact. you will be there all day.

Agree.. T bolts are a pain in the ass. Worm clamps for the win unless running high boost.

30 psi on worms is impressive lol.

 

[wingnutt]

30 psi on worms is impressive lol.

…unless you use hairspray, haven’t heard the windex theory before but we were using hairspray in the 90‘s on the turbo dodge motors after making boost controllers out of brass fitting from the local Coast-to-Coast hardware store

 

[gimmie11s]

…unless you use hairspray, haven’t heard the windex theory before but we were using hairspray in the 90‘s on the turbo dodge motors after making boost controllers out of brass fitting from the local Coast-to-Coast hardware store

Ive done that on turbo mitsubishis in the late 90s.. .worked well.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Agree.. T bolts are a pain in the ass. Worm clamps for the win unless running high boost.

30 psi on worms is impressive lol.

32-37 depending on the day to be exact LOL.

…unless you use hairspray, haven’t heard the windex theory before but we were using hairspray in the 90‘s on the turbo dodge motors after making boost controllers out of brass fitting from the local Coast-to-Coast hardware store

Hairspray works too, Im just to slow to get stuff together before it gets sticky lol. So the windex helps me slip stuff into place, then when it drys I don't know what happens, but it seems to become ONE with the rubber and tube lol

 

[LSchicago]

I've personally had a charge pipe come off with the supplied clamps, they are not great quality and I don't want to deal with having to remove my facia just to fix a boost leak when I can install a quality clamp and be done with it. Also they are easier to remove (in my experience) than worm clamps.

My included clamps have had no issues at 15PSI.

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