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mustangflanagan
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Funny thing is ford knew it was a issue and had a tab for 11-14 cars but did Jack crap in 8 years to fix it.. He'll they even machined the bosses into the timing chain covers 13 and up for it.
Dfeeds
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It's pretty easy to ignore once you stop thinking about it. And unlike the bbq tick, it's nearly impossible to hear outside of the car unless you shove your head under the wheel well. $100 isn't much for peace of mind, but I also don't think it's going to cause any harm. At least, not before one of the other dozen ticks and rattles do.
Condor1970
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Al I know is I added 1/2 bottle of Ceratec, and 80% of the tick went away. I still had a thudding kind of tick when revving. The A/C tension arm got rid of that. After that, I still had a tiny bit of BBQ tick during warm up, and so I added the other 1/2 bottle of Ceratec, and now all noise is gone. Warm up, revving, idling, etc. She's as quiet as a mouse now.
Jetnoise
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What he said!!
mVfjet is doing the same thing ....trading in his 5.0 for a Camry
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Jetnoise
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Drive with out listening? What?? Those glorious 4 valves per cylinder.....attached to a V8 ......screaming? I'd turn off the visuual blown engine lights before denying myself the symphony this gen 3 makes.
Bliss.
Period
End
Define jinx?
Jetnoise
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I like your wife already... you need a Camry though....
Dfeeds
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It will... LOL. Honestly, out of three sounds most commonly listed, I think the rattle is the one that's of concern. My guess is that the rattle is piston slap that doesn't go away when warm because the new PTWA liners cause the bore to expand more than an already loose spec'd hypereutectic piston (there's also some clutch chatter that goes on at this rpm range too that can sound like rattling, something to note). The reverse was true for the iron sleeves of previous gen coyotes, so a loose spec'd piston was ideal. The pistons should be spec'd much tighter to allow the bore to expand into spec, but then the engine would never pass Ford's stress test that requires the engine to run at max speed when cold, because it would seize up. Get on the car a bit, after the oil is fully warmed up, and the rattle goes away because the pistons have a chance to catch up with the increase in heat (which the oil jet sprayers, while essential, don't help). Piston slap with proper lubrication should, in theory, not jeopardize longevity. But throw in 5w20 oil, specifically motorcrafts syn blend that sheers quite a bit, and now it's up for grabs. Normal, regular, low mpg oriented driving and the 5w20 is fine. Get on it a bit to raise the temps before the PTW clearance tightens up and the 5w20 might thin out too much to protect against the piston slap. This all assuming that it's the rattle that's causing the cylinder wall scoring, which may or may not cause any actual issues either.
Beyond that, listen for something else. In my case; I had a metallic tick, at idle, that was different than anything else being mentioned and was only heard from the passenger side valve cover. It's pretty easy to hear in the vids I posted. I didn't know what was worse between them all at the time, but my guess is that this was the sound of a camshaft grinding out a journal.
Schwerin
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If you have to get a Camry at least get this thing https://jalopnik.com/the-toyota-mark-x-grmn-is-the-badass-rear-wheel-drive-a-1831687768
It's the closest thing to a muscle/sports car that Toyota has developed in house since like the MK4 Supra. 300+ HP, 4 dooor, RWD.
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