[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

[16s550]

If you retain the IMRC plates it should idle exactly like stock. Driving my car you wouldn't be able to tell anything has changed until you get over 6k rpm.

However my car is a manual.

Is that why my idle almost sounds like there’s a minor misfire? I have no codes car drives great but the idle is a little weird. Also is that minor buckle or slight hesitation when going from slight to heavy throttle from being locked out? That’s the only negative difference I noticed other than that gas mileage got better and power seems a lot better. I’m also thinking what I’m experiencing is from my clean side separator connection not clicking to the nipple on my PMAS cai. Once I get that sealed up i for sure should know if its intake.

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[DarkestHour]

Is that why my idle almost sounds like there’s a minor misfire? I have no codes car drives great but the idle is a little weird. Also is that minor buckle or slight hesitation when going from slight to heavy throttle from being locked out? That’s the only negative difference I noticed other than that gas mileage got better and power seems a lot better. I’m also thinking what I’m experiencing is from my clean side separator connection not clicking to the nipple on my PMAS cai. Once I get that sealed up i for sure should know if its intake.

No, that's not normal. My car idles fine and drives great. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks and maybe ask your calibrator to work on your MAF calibration. It might be out of whack.

 

[scoobydoonut]

Is that why my idle almost sounds like there’s a minor misfire? I have no codes car drives great but the idle is a little weird. Also is that minor buckle or slight hesitation when going from slight to heavy throttle from being locked out? That’s the only negative difference I noticed other than that gas mileage got better and power seems a lot better. I’m also thinking what I’m experiencing is from my clean side separator connection not clicking to the nipple on my PMAS cai. Once I get that sealed up i for sure should know if its intake.

Hmmm , I don’t have this that I know of . Locked out IMRC last night drove good sent a log in they made a revision I loaded it up still drives great so far - I drove it all over today . I have a JLT cai , and LU47 injectors and a VMP BAP , do you have this too ? I am running 93 but can’t wait to have my flex fuel tune back and running

 

[66sprint6]

Glad to hear the lockout runs good around town and down low! After the initial issues with the Ford connectors it seems like the car is happy again. I'll know more in a couple days if the CELs all stay away then I can maybe call it done.

Matt

 

[Fleeger]

So just an update on my car. Messed with some vacuum lines and reloaded my tune. I have driven around 180 miles and no CEL. My voltages are 1.466 open/3.367 closed for the control valves. Lunds write up states it should be 1.45 closed/ 3.39 open. I'm gonna keep trying to get the car to set the CEL because it was easy to set off before. So I suggest making sure your vacuum lines have no leaks and reloading the tune.

 

[16s550]

it’s weird I think it’s my clean side separator leaking. Going to try to seal it up this weekend. But it drives fine only noticed it if i roll on the throttle hard. But if i go WOT witch i just did yeaterday i noticed no hesitation and it pulled hard. I think it has to be a vacuum leak. Lund said only thing they seen in my log was slight knock When I roll on the throttle. Most likely what I am feeling really quickly going more than 50% on the throttle. Sort of hard to describe. It’s almost like I give her anything above 50% throttle and I noticed that quick hesitation then it takes off.

Sorry using voice text had to edit that LOL. Still might not be perfect

 

[gameovergt]

WooHoo! Joe from VMP just emailed me my tune. Hopefully get the intake in this weekend. If not it will have to be after Memorial Day (Disney World that weekend).

 

[66sprint6]

So just an update on my car. Messed with some vacuum lines and reloaded my tune. I have driven around 180 miles and no CEL. My voltages are 1.466 open/3.367 closed for the control valves. Lunds write up states it should be 1.45 closed/ 3.39 open. I'm gonna keep trying to get the car to set the CEL because it was easy to set off before. So I suggest making sure your vacuum lines have no leaks and reloading the tune.

I did similar and it now only pulses a little in the mornings for the first 2-3 miles of my drive. Never anytime else. Hows yours doing? Im gonna go over my vac lines one last time as well as make sure my JLT is secure and happy.

Matt

 

[VooDooDaddy]

I want honest opinion from guys tat already have installed this manifold. Would you guys recommend it for an auto car? Will I get partial throttle bucking and missing and suffer from drive-ability issues? I drive my car daily on city and usually dont go over 4k but once a month do bracket racing and would like to have more top en in 3rd were the car traps.

Given your combination and driving habits/desires; I think you would be better served with an F-150 intake manifold. It would give you a substantial torque boost in the midrange (which is where you drive most often), it connects and installs exactly like the stock manifold, requires no tuning adjustments, and when you can find them they are usually less than $100 including shipping.

I have a 2018GT intake manifold, PNP connectors and "Y" connectors for the IMRC's, and 52lbs/hr injectors sitting on my workbench..., but I doubt I will install them anytime soon because I am very happy with the F-150 manifold that currently sits atop my 5.0L.

 

[Orange_cru$h]

If you retain the IMRC plates it should idle exactly like stock. Driving my car you wouldn't be able to tell anything has changed until you get over 6k rpm.

However my car is a manual.

My opinion is, auto car should retain IMRC's or have 3.55 gear or lower (numerically higher) to use lockouts. My car is locked, 3.31 manual, no issues, pulls like a freight train.

Thank you guys for the response..IMRC needs to be in place for my application.

 

[Orange_cru$h]

Given your combination and driving habits/desires; I think you would be better served with an F-150 intake manifold. It would give you a substantial torque boost in the midrange (which is where you drive most often), it connects and installs exactly like the stock manifold, requires no tuning adjustments, and when you can find them they are usually less than $100 including shipping.

I have a 2018GT intake manifold, PNP connectors and "Y" connectors for the IMRC's, and 52lbs/hr injectors sitting on my workbench..., but I doubt I will install them anytime soon because I am very happy with the F-150 manifold that currently sits atop my 5.0L.

It is a good alternative, and I'm sure should feel more enjoyable and even feel faster scooting around town. In my case I will need to test as usually I trap on the top of 3rd in the 1/4 and don't know if in the end a faster get-go or better Mid it will translate into a faster timeslip. At the price point I could get one and test anyway.

 

[yellowstangatl]

I have an 18 manifold with lockouts with 3.15s, A6 and a 4c converter and it's a beast. I'd never know the imrcs aren't functional.

 

[Orange_cru$h]

Good to know a a6 3.15 review..Thanks

 

[gameovergt]

Good to know a a6 3.15 review..Thanks

he also has a convertor. I'll be getting mine on soon(hopefully). Will post up what its like with an auto/3.55's.

 

[Fleeger]

Well over 300 miles now and still no CEL. I think it's a combination of vacuum and the computer being weird. I have done everything I could to set the light back off with no luck. Good sign I hope.

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