5.2/GT350 heads/3.2KB/Tremec-148 mph 1/4 mile/10.03-video

In the interest of full disclosure that pass was my second of the nght.
My first pass after an hour highway drive with 15 minutes cool down was slower @ 144.

The second pass was only after a 10 min cool down.

Despite my ice tank/jabsco 29 GPM pump IAT's were up there at the end of the pass(170) per my logs even though I am not even sure its IAT2 so I just ordered the EP-WP 29 pump with LP programing to flow more .

I was on my way to make another pass on Sunday @US 41, over 100 miles away,driving there on slicks but decided to listen to that little voice .

I planned to make a quick "dash" there after leaving my drill a little early without telling the Boss.

I got a call on my way(she may have been tracking me) so I promptly turned around.

Probably no point anyway since no changes to the car since last pass.

I did get to weigh the car at truck weigh station on the highway.

I was surprised it still weighed that much after the rear seat delete and corbeau seats!

I did want to try loading the suspension using the line lock to lock the front brakes before lauch but it wll probably be easier once I get my 2 step working.

Next time out ,hope to have new pump, working 2 step /wot box,26 inch slick, rear Baer light weight drag brakes(may be fronts with 15 inch skinnies) and will try out loading the suspension with the line lock.
Most importantly will get permission from the Boss:cheers:
Hoping that will be enough for 9's

10.03-- so close but mother of sway!!

so I had another crack at that 9.99 after making some changes.

Finally installed the Baer brakes so I could run 15 inch wheels and more side wall.
I had been told either 15x8 or 15x 9.33 but decided to try a 15 x10 wheel I had lying around in my mountain of parts.

I had thought may be the 6.5 bs would work but can confirm it WILL not as pokes to far out. fortunately someone wanted them so ended up with the 15x8 race stars.

I also wanted the 15's so I could run a 26 inch tire(the Hoosiers are 28) which would effectively increase my rear end to 3.55 from 3.31.
These are the ET R's bias ply .(also have 28's on another set of 15x8 wheel--more about that later)
I also went down to a 26 inch tall bias ply tire on the front wheels

My Tremec has a 2.66 first gear(but close ratio) so the 3.31 rear end and 28 inch tire is too tall
When I go to 4.10's the 28 inch tires may work better but I still think the 26 inch tire is ideal(apart from the looks).

I had also hoped to have the new EMP-W32 pump with the ligenfelter program done as I was seeing >165 IATs at the end of the pass the last time out. unfortunately it will require upgrading lines to 1 inch from 3/4 so that's going to b a big job.
I still cant get my 2 step working (wont hold rpm for more than 1-2 seconds if at all
I set the no lift shift but was not planning to use it as not sure if worked either.

I drove about 60 miles to the track... cool down of 30 minutes getting my stuff ready-airing down rear tires to 18 psi( I had 35 in front),ice in tank, adjusting front Koni's to full losoe(Rear Viking are 5C/3 R.. I think).

kept burn out short to avoid heating everything up and had the other guy stage first.
I could not hold rpm at the desired 6500 and ended up leaving below 5000...... it was sway city,not like with slicks in back and radials up front, but truly all over the place .
I should have got out of it but stayed hitting a center cone. I let off at the big end when it got too scary but may have crossed the line ...
so close!!
I was warned I would be booted if I swayed again so called it a day. I would not have even if they let me as it was scary.

I am now thinking the sway is due to the bulge( I had been planning on tubes which will mean screws) but may be the answer is the 9.33 welds.

I could transfer the bias ply to the welds and use the race stars with the 28 inch ET steer pros/26 pro bracket radial that look like they work best on an 8 inch wide tire.... for the hellion car/aerospace double brakes, whenever I get it running again .:frusty:

Overall not a bad night----it always is when I drive home.
Also got to show off my "5.2' badges.lol

I am sure I will get my 9.99 once I sort out the sway with current set up or 4.10's

Need to get the other car down here!

I'm ready for you to get in the 9s. Seems like youve had nothing but problems getting there. Next time!

The back half is nasty!

The sway is from the 15x8. Ask me how I know...Get a 15x10 on there and it will disappear.
Also keep pressure at 16 psi I found lower swayed some and really got no benefit in the sixty.

Thanks man.
Glad I did not try to run it again !

The Hoosiers on 17x 9.5 went straight as an arrow .
Would tubes and screws help .?
Other wise I am going to have to pony up for the Welds (9.33 wide )

I think (hope ) the the 8 inch wheels would be fine with drag radials

Reds197 said:

The back half is nasty!

The sway is from the 15x8. Ask me how I know...Get a 15x10 on there and it will disappear.
Also keep pressure at 16 psi I found lower swayed some and really got no benefit in the sixty.

Click to expand...

Would a narrower slick (Hoosier has a 26x 8.5 tire) work better /sway less with 15x8 wheels ?
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-18115/

I went ahead and order the 15 x 9.33 Welds (always wanted a pair anyway) so hoping they work better with the 26 x10.5 tire .
I know I need to get extended studs but that means open lugs .
Anyone know where to get open lugs that will work with the Welds ?

Motivation..

[ame]

That's on a slick, at 10psi cold.

LOL

Yeah but I am sure that's a 17x9.5 wheel .

My 28 inch Hoosiers also went straight arrow on that rim .

The 26x10.5 have bulge and I was at 18 psi .

....and that's my cars "evil " but lazy (auto) twin brother .LOl

olaosunt said:

Would a narrower slick (Hoosier has a 26x 8.5 tire) work better /sway less with 15x8 wheels ?
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-18115/

I went ahead and order the 15 x 9.33 Welds (always wanted a pair anyway) so hoping they work better with the 26 x10.5 tire .
I know I need to get extended studs but that means open lugs .
Anyone know where to get open lugs that will work with the Welds ?

Click to expand...

https://www.billetproshop.com/product/m14-x-1-5-twelve-point-aluminum-lug-nuts/

works with factory studs on the welds. I did not use a washer behind them but did use the arp lube on the shank and back side of the lug

Thank you so much .
So no need for the ARP extended studs ?

Nope
I have Weld S71's 15x9's that I use them on

Thanks again man.
Do you run a slick and if you do what size?
Tubes/screws?
Any sway ?
I am hoping the wider Welds will fixed the sway I had with the 26x l0.5 ET R's
I also have 28x10.5 for when I eventually go to 4.10's

You have 6060 right ?
I am starting to think I should have gone 2.97 instead of the 2.66' if I am going to end up with 4.10's which will mean 4th either way .
I was hoping I would get the 9's staying in 3rd gear -as that will go up to 148-150 with the 3.31 rear end and a 28 inch tire .
But it's too much of a dog ( second is also 1.78 vs 2.10 and third is 1.3 vs 1.48 which wmay explain my low 1/8 trap )