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2017 GT350: ANC issue or what..?

Relak

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I checked both the front map light box and in the rear headliner for mic's associated with Active noise cancellation (ANC) and no joy on either. There is a mic in the maplight box but it's hardwired with no way to "unplug" it. I have a 2017 GT350 with a shaker system minus the sub. I'm getting quite a bit of feedback in the speakers after upgrading them and everything I've researched is pointing the similar issues ecoboost's were having with the ANC.

Currently my setup is
1. Highlevel inputs tapped after the factor amp outs, running to a JL Audio Fix 86

2. from the Fix 86 RCA's running to 1-4channel amp and 1-mono amp

3. Speaker wire running from the four channel amps to rear coax speakers, and speaker wire running to a crossover for the the front speakers. Front speakers are - 6.5" lower mids (low crossover), 3.5" factory mids, 1" JBL tweeters.(high crossover, split between the 3.5"s and tweeters)

I was running a LC7i but had feedback coming back from the speakers so I switched to the Fix86 in hopes that it would clean up the signal, but no joy.

I spoke with Jesse from [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] and waiting to get the harness from him, but I've tried everything else to get rid of the crappy signal being fed through the speakers.

I opened up the dash and noticed that the speaker lines coming out of the head unit (HU) have duct tape around them from factory. I opened up the duct tape and the speaker wire is taped (no spliced) to another open silver wire (I'm assuming the ground?). It seems like a bad way to introduce feedback signal immediately after the HU and I'm not sure why the factory would use this as their method for wiring.

At this point the only things I haven't eliminated are the HU itself being bad, the crappy wiring job from factor from the HU to the factory amp, the factor amp itself being bad, AND/OR the signal processing being done by the factory amp/HU.

At this point I just want to figure out what is causing the issue, because I've spent so much on an aftermarket system but can't enjoy it with this constant signal/feedback being pumped through the speakers as well. :shrug:
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BGT3rs

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I checked both the front map light box and in the rear headliner for mic's associated with Active noise cancellation (ANC) and no joy on either. There is a mic in the maplight box but it's hardwired with no way to "unplug" it. I have a 2017 GT350 with a shaker system minus the sub. I'm getting quite a bit of feedback in the speakers after upgrading them and everything I've researched is pointing the similar issues ecoboost's were having with the ANC.

Currently my setup is
1. Highlevel inputs tapped after the factor amp outs, running to a JL Audio Fix 86

2. from the Fix 86 RCA's running to 1-4channel amp and 1-mono amp

3. Speaker wire running from the four channel amps to rear coax speakers, and speaker wire running to a crossover for the the front speakers. Front speakers are - 6.5" lower mids (low crossover), 3.5" factory mids, 1" JBL tweeters.(high crossover, split between the 3.5"s and tweeters)

I was running a LC7i but had feedback coming back from the speakers so I switched to the Fix86 in hopes that it would clean up the signal, but no joy.

I spoke with Jesse from [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] and waiting to get the harness from him, but I've tried everything else to get rid of the crappy signal being fed through the speakers.

I opened up the dash and noticed that the speaker lines coming out of the head unit (HU) have duct tape around them from factory. I opened up the duct tape and the speaker wire is taped (no spliced) to another open silver wire (I'm assuming the ground?). It seems like a bad way to introduce feedback signal immediately after the HU and I'm not sure why the factory would use this as their method for wiring.

At this point the only things I haven't eliminated are the HU itself being bad, the crappy wiring job from factor from the HU to the factory amp, the factor amp itself being bad, AND/OR the signal processing being done by the factory amp/HU.

At this point I just want to figure out what is causing the issue, because I've spent so much on an aftermarket system but can't enjoy it with this constant signal/feedback being pumped through the speakers as well. :shrug:
Would this be the answer to your problem?
http://www.infotainment.com/collect...ucts/ford-aftermarket-amplifier-audio-harness
 
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Relak

Relak

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BGT3rs

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I purchased it, waiting on it to come in.. I've done a lot of trial and error ,so I'm hoping the harness will work.

My thread on my build: Theodora
Followed your thread and Ford really doesn't make it easy.
You're certainly blazing a trail and unfortunately that means you're on the bleeding edge before the leading one but i think you're getting close.

If the harness works "as advertised" you "should be" good to go.
 

smdandb2

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I purchased it, waiting on it to come in.. I've done a lot of trial and error ,so I'm hoping the harness will work.

My thread on my build: Theodora
It'll fix your issues.

When I did my stereo install there were no such harnesses, so I had to build mine myself. But I knew from the beginning to use the signal straight from the HU and not post-amp.

There have been a lot of people that have done it post-amp, and there have been quite a few threads on here about bad sounding audio. The answer is always the same.

Your install looks clean as hell though, thats awesome.
 

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Relak

Relak

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It'll fix your issues.

When I did my stereo install there were no such harnesses, so I had to build mine myself. But I knew from the beginning to use the signal straight from the HU and not post-amp.

There have been a lot of people that have done it post-amp, and there have been quite a few threads on here about bad sounding audio. The answer is always the same.

Your install looks clean as hell though, thats awesome.
Did you use just the harness or did you also change the coding for the audio as well? I installed the harness but the noise is still there, so I'm thinking it's the processing coming from the HU at this point.
 

smdandb2

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Did you use just the harness or did you also change the coding for the audio as well? I installed the harness but the noise is still there, so I'm thinking it's the processing coming from the HU at this point.
My head unit is still stock, no reflashing.

The one thing I did notice, when I unhooked the factory amp I lost all the DSP settings in the head unit. It reverted to basic settings. So it must be able to detect the presence of the amp.

But you have a 2017, assuming you have Sync3 that is a totally different beast I have zero experience with.
 
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Relak

Relak

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My head unit is still stock, no reflashing.

The one thing I did notice, when I unhooked the factory amp I lost all the DSP settings in the head unit. It reverted to basic settings. So it must be able to detect the presence of the amp.

But you have a 2017, assuming you have Sync3 that is a totally different beast I have zero experience with.
Ya It looks like the issue is coming out of the ACM, I connected the harness directly to the ACM and I'm still getting the digital signal noise. Oddly though, I played around with some of the settings in FORSCAN and when I switched off the SDARS antenna, the signal was gone (I also lost satellite radio, bluetooth audio, and USB, haha)
 

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Relak, I really like the idea of a sub in the spare tire wheel. But I have to ask, do you really get much out of the 6" JL with the sound of the GT350 exhaust? Did you consider or measure for any larger models?

Thanks for the feedback.
 
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Relak

Relak

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Relak, I really like the idea of a sub in the spare tire wheel. But I have to ask, do you really get much out of the 6" JL with the sound of the GT350 exhaust? Did you consider or measure for any larger models?

Thanks for the feedback.
I heard this thing at a local audio shop before I decided to purchase it, and I was seriously surprised at how loud it is. Paired with the JL 250 mono amp, I think its too much bass at times but the fact that I can use the equalizer on the HU makes it easy to adjust.

Its designed to put out a lot of bass in a small package.. which is why it costs more than some 10"-12" subs.
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