Garage lift?

I have an extended height 12,000lb Rotary Two post. It can pick up just about anything. We purchased it used for less then 2k.

dgc333 said:

If a 4 post lift is swaying then it wasn't assembled correctly.

I should clarify my statement about not worrying about the concrete. Most garage floors are around 3" thick with a 2500psi rated concrete. This is more than adequate for a 4 post lift.

The 2 post lift manufacturers recommend a minimum of 4" of concrete with 6" preferred of a 3500psi min rating on the concrete. Unless you built the garage and know what was poured you need to be concerned if you intend to install a 2 post lift.

When I built my garage I used a laser transit to find the high spot and poured 6" above that spot of 4000 psi concrete so I would be prepared for what ever lift I chose. It cost me twice as much for the concrete than a typical garage floor but in the big scheme of the cost of the garage it wasn't significant.

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Regarding bold section above:
While that should be a true statement, if buying a used home OR not knowing what is being done at a new home being "as built" - there are contractors who skimp on materials and cut corners so they have more $ in their pocket... Therefore IF a contractor has not laid down the "minimum" garage floor thickness, the home owner would still be taking a risk installing any type of structural lift that needs to be secured to the floor.

Not only is the floor thickness important, but from my understanding, there are different types of concrete used throughout the global US - what may stand up to or be a 2500psi (or 3500psi) concrete rating to some, may not be up to spec for others.

This is why it still IS very important for folks to have a certified individual make sure that their existing concrete floor can not only allow secure mounting for such a lift but that it also can support the full weight of a vehicle while in operation.

Can anyone determine the thickness and psi strength of their concrete garage floor by just looking at it? If so, teach me the trick. :lol:

Another important aspect of ANY 2 or 4 post lift is safe operation. Some folks think just because they now have a lift, they are impervious to catastrophic failures or safety aspects. You would be surprised at how many folks don't even know the proper lifting points of vehicles - it's different for each. Improper lifting of any vehicle (out of balance) can surely be an accident that WILL happen, not IF it will happen.

The other thing too - be sure to research the quality of the lift and its components. There's too many "cheap" 2/4 post lifts out there and that in itself can be a danger as well.

I have to agree with Phil above. It's imperative you have the floor section checked out. The only way I'd say you can be sure you don't need the inspection is to have another lift mounted next to it. Beyond that, unless it's been tested by already having a lift, you're putting your life at risk.

Very well said, Phil.


Norm

My garage is 8' high but the garage door opener hangs down a foot or so....is 7' enough clearance for one of the smaller two post lifts?

The dannmar 2 post lift for $2k seems like a bargain for how easy it'd make repairs and mods! I've been using a floor jack for 5-6 years and last year I bought a Harbor Freight racing jack which is worlds better. But pushing a button and not having to screw with jack stands and all that pumping would be great!

Not sure how I'd test the depth of my garage's concrete floor. Maybe a really long masonry bit?

-Emt1581

You can measure the thickness of your concrete by drilling a hole through it with a masonry bit. There are also sonic tools that measure concrete thickness.

An 8 ft high ceiling is not going to be high enough to lift a car and be able to stand up under it.

I wouldn't risk my life on any Chinese made lift. PERIOD

I did a lot of research on lifts and decided I will be going with a 4 Post Bendpak. Good brand with a good reputation. Also has backup safeties on it just in case something fails. Little more than the cheap ones (about $3,000) but when I plan to be under it and my vehicle, it's one place I'd rather not cheap out.

You should look at Direct Lift before buying a BP. I have a DL 9k 4 post. My neighbor has a BP. My neighbor wishes he would have done more research. Nothing wrong with BP(except needing air to release locks). But for what he paid for his lift I also got drip trays,caster kit,sliding jack tray and for a little extra a rolling hydraulic jack. My lift is commercial quality and has no cables or linkage exposed anywhere.
Fast Equipment Ft Myers,Fl. :cheers:

Looks like a nice lift but I'll stick with the Bendpak. I'm looking at the HD-9XW. I like it because on the wide setting it has more room to work between the ramps. I am fine with air locks. My 80 gallon 2 stage air compressor needs something to do. =)

Same lift neighbor has. Just so you know. Working space between runways on BP is 41" vs DL @ 39". Runway width on BP is 19" vs DL 20". Not that big of deal unless working on a smaller car. He has vettes so no issue.
Rolling hydraulic 4500lb jack $795 thru DL and BP is air assist $1395.
Both lifts are certified
Just want to let a friend know. In the end it is your money:cheers:

dgc333 said:

You can measure the thickness of your concrete by drilling a hole through it with a masonry bit. There are also sonic tools that measure concrete thickness.

An 8 ft high ceiling is not going to be high enough to lift a car and be able to stand up under it.

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I have to measure again. Might actually be 10' now that I think of it. Because inside our home is 8' and the garage is higher than that.

These sonic tools...I'm guessing they aren't cheap or rentable right? Maybe I could circumvent the sonic tools and drilling by just digging up against the exterior and see how deep I keep hitting concrete. There's nothing under the garage (that I know of).

Thanks

-Emt1581

Southview said:

Same lift neighbor has. Just so you know. Working space between runways on BP is 41" vs DL @ 39". Runway width on BP is 19" vs DL 20". Not that big of deal unless working on a smaller car. He has vettes so no issue.
Rolling hydraulic 4500lb jack $795 thru DL and BP is air assist $1395.
Both lifts are certified
Just want to let a friend know. In the end it is your money:cheers:

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I do appreciate the information.

I wonder if they changed it but Bendpak's site shows the HD-9XW to be 44-3/8" between the rails on the wide setting. Shows Revision M, maybe it's been changed from when your neighbor got his? The rolling jack for the Bendpak is $1165. Still more expensive I know.




Also of note.... I read a lot about the Backyard Buddy in my research but could never find anything on pricing. I requested a quote and almost crapped my pants. $4,595 for their most basic 7k lb lift, $5,995 for their basic 9k lb lift! Of course they aren't certified either. I was never really interested in it but was curious about the pricing. I can't believe anyone buys them!

I measured my garage... 8' 2".

Any decent lift options for a vertically challenged garage?

Thanks

-Emt1581

Emt1581 said:

I measured my garage... 8' 2".

Any decent lift options for a vertically challenged garage?

Thanks

-Emt1581

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Look up Danmar's MaxJax. I have heard good things about them. Can't stand under it of course but beats jack stands and you can move it out of your way.