markmurfie
Well-Known Member
Heres a part number off mine.
Sponsored
Mine did too.Weird! My 17 came with the solenoid that's in the manual.
I believe it said to initially line it up with the first line. When I tensioned my belt down I believe mine is a hair over the first line for what I believe is correct tension.Kinda not helping but in your manual.... Where does it tell you to line up the tensioner lines? If it on the first line or in between
Interesting, so I can just leave them as is? Is that what you did?You do not need to change the solenoids!
The older style with vacumn line. Either needed to be hooked up to the Tee that went from Crankcase breather to airfilter inlet pipe. Or vented to atmosphere. If you ran the little breathers on the valve cover you just left it unhooked vented to atmospere.
I think Ford did us a favor and is venting it to atmosphere right at the solenoid under that black cover. There is probably a filter under it. Less plumbing to worry about.
By the way thats how my 2017 car is and it runs fine as seen in my sig. below
.
Same as MOST of the 2017's.Weird! My 17 came with the solenoid that's in the manual.
See above.Mine did too.
You do not need to change the solenoids!
I think Ford did us a favor and is venting it to atmosphere right at the solenoid under that black cover. There is probably a filter under it. Less plumbing to worry about.
By the way thats how my 2017 car is and it runs fine as seen in my sig. below
That "gauge" is 100% fake and is calculated. DO NOT go by that, EVER!I suspect cars with 2 way are like yours and cars with three way like mine I can see boost although it was N/A and would not actually see boost. Maybe a question turbo/centri FI companies need to start asking and come up with a kit or tune for each. Kinda like the weird oil gauge question tuners ask.
With the lines hooked up correct.Watch your IMRC volts in the higher RPM range for them to be closing.
Kinda like how some dodges have mechanical power steering, and others have electric power steering on the same year/model/trim package cars. LOL. Running change I would assume.I know the gauge is "fake" I was just trying to correlate why some cars have two ports and some have three.
Thanks alot man. Cancelled the order in time. :cheers:Yes leave them as is. Thats how my car is.
And cancel the order if you can. Save yourself some money.
.
No problem its all good. I'll bring it up with Lund and im sure they will let me know if something seems off.Watch your IMRC volts in the higher RPM range for them to be closing.
The two ports or three ports don't ever vent to atmosphere. This is something people are having to resort to to check for a problem. Once the air passes the MAF you want it to go through the engine, eventually, not escape anywhere or have a spot air can be pulled in that doesnt go through the MAF.
I did say you may not have to do anything, as long as the solenoids do a good enough job at blocking boost from the IMRC diaphragm. The other concern is if you let off the throttle quickly and the solenoid opens quicker than your wastegate bleeds off boost the diaphragm will see boost and possibly be damaged.
I know the gauge is "fake" I was just trying to correlate why some cars have two ports and some have three.
Thanks guys, hit boost for the first time today after Lund gave me the okay. IMRC didnt seem to self destruct yet so here's to hoping, Lol. Just waiting on the tune to be revised and have to get another tank of gas.With the lines hooked up correct.
I can't say that I have ever seen anyone's IMRC plates move.
Seems most that had issues either had them hooked up wrong.
Or actually had items in the tune commanding them to close/move.
Kinda like how some dodges have mechanical power steering, and others have electric power steering on the same year/model/trim package cars. LOL. Running change I would assume.
Was it fun....Just updating this, Lund tune is 99% done and I've hit 13psi/7600rpm. No problems with the IMRC!