VTT Stage 2 Twin Scroll results, FINALLY!!

[MENTION=16782]VargasTurboTech[/MENTION] do you think that your LPFP issues were because you're running an auxiliary port injection set-up and full e85?

TEXAS HEAT said:

@VargasTurboTech do you think that your LPFP issues were because you're running an auxiliary port injection set-up and full e85?

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Of course, the more fuel demand you put on a system the more pump you need. 100% e85 demands at least 30% more fuel to make the same power. Couple that with the weak factory LPFP that is not only feeding the HPFP, which feeds the 4 factory DI injectors, its also now feeding 4 port injectors. No matter what it was commanded it was down in the 60's at redline. With our drop in bucket, you can command any pressure, and it will hold it. The higher you can command, and hold the easier time the HPFP has. We will be announcing the buckets shortly.

This is exciting stuff, great job!

Great results. I want one!

Did you guys record any street driving with the twin scroll? I'm super excited about my preorder and would love to see the turbo in action.

I need this turbo in my life. Great job VTT! How do I order?

Glenn G said:

I need this turbo in my life.

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+1 :eyebulge:

I drive the car on the street everyday as my daily. Its absolutely amazing, so fun to drive!

priestblack said:

Did you guys record any street driving with the twin scroll? I'm super excited about my preorder and would love to see the turbo in action.

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+1 on some videos. I'd love to have something to look at while I'm waiting for it to be delivered.

Still on track for mid to late Jan?

Looking like it yes!

Happy New Year everyone!

That's what I like to hear!

Happy New Year to you guys as well!!!

VargasTurboTech said:

Looking like it yes!

Happy New Year everyone!

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Hell yeah!!! We need to get some discussion going on one of the threads for the install because I have no idea what I'm doing :headbonk:

priestblack said:

Hell yeah!!! We need to get some discussion going on one of the threads for the install because I have no idea what I'm doing :headbonk:

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Just wing it! haha. Yeah I've never messed with a turbo either. Hopefully Tony will give us some basic pictures or a short video to show us what we need to do.

JSCOTT0812 said:

Just wing it! haha. Yeah I've never messed with a turbo either. Hopefully Tony will give us some basic pictures or a short video to show us what we need to do.

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Its very easy to change the turbine housing. Obviously 1st remove the turbo from the car and get it on the bench. There is one V Band style clamp that holds the turbine housing on.

Best thing to do is take the V band clamp off first, then hold the turbo and tap on the turbine housing gently to get it go move a little bit, like .010 to .020, just enough to open a gap for penetrating oil to get between the turbine housing and the CHRA, I like PB Blaster. If you cant get any gap at all, dont worry, just spray it and it will still soak in, just make sure the clamp is off so you can spray it all around. Be generous and let it soak for a while, even overnight, it does work, the longer it soaks in, the easier it will be to get the turbine housing off.

After its soaked a bit you can hold the turbo and tap on the turbine housing with a soft hammer, a brass hammer, or even a regular hammer if your careful, It will separate pretty easily if the oil has made its way between the 2 parts. If it dosent come off easily, take your time and use more penetrating oil, be patient, and let it sit a while longer. The key when separating the Turbine housing and the CHRA is to be patient and do it slowly, watch the gap start to open up and try to keep the same gap 360 degrees around between the CHRA and the housing. What your trying to do is let not the turbine housing hit the turbine wheel when removing it, and are be very very ginger with the removal. I can get them separated with no penetrating oil, but when they come apart easier, you have less chance of damaging the turbine wheel, so use the oil.

The Turbine housing on these Turbos have a pin to locate the rotation, so when you put your new one on, just locate the pin with your eyes and slowly and carefully mate the CHRA and the housing, by hand push the parts together or lightly tap together with a soft hammer. Put your clamp back on in its same location as it came off ( you could mark that or take a picture and look back at that ) do not over tighten that clamp, lube that nut as well. Spin your turbine wheel and look at the turbine wheel and compressor wheel while spinning to make sure all is well and your confident you did a good job.

The key to remember is that these turbine wheels are very thin and lightweight, so your going slow and being careful to try to not bend it. The more patient you are with the penetrating oil soaking and separating the 2 parts, the better off, its an easy job, just take your time, and always double check your work.