- Thread starter
- #31
Great new video with install!
[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]rbkdyUt0TXI[/MEDIA]"]
Best Regards,
TJ
[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]rbkdyUt0TXI[/MEDIA]"]
Best Regards,
TJ
Sponsored
Yes, 15% Holiday Special discount until Dec 25thAny Christmas Steeda specials going on now?!? Wouldn't mind picking these up, stock adjustment is a PIA!
Glad we could help ... you have made a great decision in looking to Steeda for your suspension needs - you will be very happy with the quality of the parts & the feel of the Stang!I already put my order in. Thanks TJ and Jigar!
Great stuff...looking forwards to purchasing this part!Got these installed Wednesday along with a bunch of other stuff. A few observations: The camber mounts will in fact install without needing to lower the sub-frame though in our case we had a bunch of suspension stuff removed during the install. That being said, the driver side is a bit of a PITA ... several hoses in the way. Required some gentle nudging with a pry bar. Careful, some things might not respond well to squishing. The image below shows us getting the eccentrics tightened enough to stay put as well as a missing LCA and spring so your mileage may vary for ease of install.
We installed with the index marks facing the rear. There is no visibility to the index marks if installed the other way (gas tank in the way). Steedas videos and pictures in this thread show the camber mounts in both orientations and the instructions don't seem clear on that point. Some clarification would be good.
Getting the top bolt and orienting the nut underneath was much easier than expected. There is room under the sub frame on the differential side to hold the nut. No worries there.
Fit and finish are very good. My son, and 2nd pair of hands in the shop, is a welding engineer for Deere. He said the aesthetics of the welds were good and mechanically seemed more than adequate. Made me feel pretty good about my purchase.
We were able to do a rough alignment using the indexing nut with mounted tires on a 4-post. The front facing tensioning nut is a little hard to access - the tool of choice is an 18mm ratcheting wrench from directly below...the longer the better. Kind of have to hold the rear facing eccentric bolt while tightening the front down. Not sure how my alignment shop will deal with this but we were able to run the mount through the entire range of adjustment with the suspension fully loaded. This should be a much more accurate way to adjust to spec than the OEM slot. Gives you some fine control over camber.
Not quite sure how to tighten to the torque spec the way we have this guy oriented. Can't really fit a torque wrench up in there for the locking nut. Might be good if Steeda can enlighten. I'm guessing the alignment guys will just torque it to "feels tight".
Overall, seems like a great solution to the problem folks are having with alignment shops saying the rear camber can't be adjusted. Great job Steeda!
Still time to save during our sale!Great stuff...looking forwards to purchasing this part!
A torque adapter would work to torque the nut and bolt. https://store.snapon.com/TORQUE-ADAPTORS-C796465.aspxInstalled these Wednesday along with a bunch of other stuff. A few observations: The camber mounts will in fact install without needing to lower the sub-frame though in our case we had a bunch of suspension stuff removed during the install. That being said, the driver side is a bit of a PITA ... several hoses in the way. Required some gentle nudging with a pry bar. Careful, some things might not respond well to squishing. The image below shows us getting the eccentrics tightened enough to stay put as well as a missing LCA and spring so your mileage may vary for ease of install.
We installed with the index marks facing the rear. There is no visibility to the index marks if installed the other way (gas tank in the way). Steedas videos and pictures in this thread show the camber mounts in both orientations and the instructions don't seem clear on that point. Some clarification would be good.
Getting the top bolt and orienting the nut underneath was much easier than expected. There is room under the sub frame on the differential side to hold the nut. No worries there.
Fit and finish are very good. My son, and 2nd pair of hands in the shop, is a welding engineer for Deere. He said the aesthetics of the welds were good and mechanically seemed more than adequate. Made me feel pretty good about my purchase.
We were able to do a rough alignment using the indexing nut with mounted tires on a 4-post. The front facing tensioning nut is a little hard to access - the tool of choice is an 18mm ratcheting wrench from directly below...the longer the better. Kind of have to hold the rear facing eccentric bolt while tightening the front down. Not sure how my alignment shop will deal with this but we were able to run the mount through the entire range of adjustment with the suspension fully loaded. This should be a much more accurate way to adjust to spec than the OEM slot. Gives you some fine control over camber.
Not quite sure how to tighten to the torque spec the way we have this guy oriented. Can't really fit a torque wrench up in there for the locking nut. Might be good if Steeda can enlighten. I'm guessing the alignment guys will just torque it to "feels tight".
Overall, seems like a great solution to the problem folks are having with alignment shops saying the rear camber can't be adjusted. Great job Steeda!
Interesting point Voodoo. Hadn't thought of that. Tomorrow is alignment day at Blackjack Speed Shop (Tim Duncan's shop in SA...yes that Tim Duncan). I'll see what the shop can do with the torque setting.My only concern is with the Steeda camber adjuster in place the control arm eccentric bolt must now clamp / compress 8 pieces of steel to clamp the arm in place. If I remember right that's a 12mm bolt that's torqued to 85 lb-ft. That's a lot of stacked steel to clamp with a 12mm bolt and to hold the camber in place when pushed in a corner.