N2mb WOT Box

stealthfrc said:

Yea, mine would sound like a bomb. Here is a vid. I got rid of it. Didn't use it much.

Click to expand...

Yeah, it's doing that because it's loading up. You cut spark and there is extra fuel in the exhaust that will ignite. The faster you shift, the less fuel makes it into the exhaust to cause the back fire. It's a combo of the delay setting and how quick you shift.

Derek@Lethal said:

Yeah, it's doing that because it's loading up. You cut spark and there is extra fuel in the exhaust that will ignite. The faster you shift, the less fuel makes it into the exhaust to cause the back fire. It's a combo of the delay setting and how quick you shift.

Click to expand...

no matter what it would do it. the way the turbos are setup on the car no matter what, that fuel was going to hit the hot turbine and ignite. i got sick of it so i removed the wot box from the car. it worked like it was supposed to but just got sick of the m80's going off every wot shift lol.

Derek@Lethal said:

All of the instructions are typically available for download directly from N2MB's website but they are not complete for the 2015+ Mustang yet. Here is the basic instructions that are the same for every car:

RED - Ignition coil power IN
ORANGE - Ignition coil power OUT
BLACK - Ground
GREEN - Clutch wire input
BLUE - Throttle position sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor input
YELLOW - RPM input

Click to expand...

John from N2MB sent me the info to go along with their wiring harness colors you provided above in how it relates to our wiring on the car. Weather and time permitting I plan on installing mine tomorrow. Hope this helps everyone!

Green/Violet Wire – Pin 8 on C175B ECU Connector/Pin 2 at sensor (Cruise Control Clutch Switch)

Blue/White Wire – Pin 60 on C175B ECU Connector/Pin 5 at sensor (APP Sensor 2)

Yellow/Violet – Pin 70 on C175E ECU Connector/Pin 2 at sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor Positive)

Violet – Pin 1 on C1045 ECU Connector or wire exiting Fuse 44(15A) on Fuse Box

The Game said:

John from N2MB sent me the info to go along with their wiring harness colors you provided above in how it relates to our wiring on the car. Weather and time permitting I plan on installing mine tomorrow. Hope this helps everyone!

Green/Violet Wire – Pin 8 on C175B ECU Connector/Pin 2 at sensor (Cruise Control Clutch Switch)

Blue/White Wire – Pin 60 on C175B ECU Connector/Pin 5 at sensor (APP Sensor 2)

Yellow/Violet – Pin 70 on C175E ECU Connector/Pin 2 at sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor Positive)

Violet – Pin 1 on C1045 ECU Connector or wire exiting Fuse 44(15A) on Fuse Box

Click to expand...

Please let us know how the install goes I'm looking into purchasing

Interested to know about this. Have one sat at home which I took off my old 07 GT. Absolutely loved it on that car and I really had to work to get the flames. Normal driving you'd never even know it was there.

Due to the unburnt fuel passing into the exhaust it was always recommended not to have cats as they could easily be damaged when the fuel ignites in a hot header. Straight through mufflers too as the fuel igniting in the exhaust has ruined quite a few stock and after market chambered mufflers.

Hey guys, I started working on this project last night and intend to finish it tonight. The DIY for the 11-14 model does not apply to the 15 and up model at all once you get to the point where you disconnect the connectors from the PCM. For starters, the 15+ GT's only have two PCM connectors whereas the 11-14 models have three. So, in essence it's all guesswork after this point. It's best to get your hands on a copy of the factory PCM's schematics if possible.

Thankfully, I was able to get in contact with someone via SVTP who has actually installed one of these onto an S550 at his shop and he was able to confirm that the instructions for the 11-14 barely apply to the 15+ models. This is the breakdown he gave me - I'm fairly confident this wiring schematic will work but I'm posting in case I may have written something down incorrectly and/or to help other S550 owners who may be interested in the Wot-Box.

Feel free to correct me if any of the wiring is incorrect. I wrote it down in a hurry on some scratch paper.

1) (Short) Black wot-box wire --> Ground.

2) Green wot-box wire (clutch input) --> Pin #8 on connector C175B. Solder into Green/Violet wire.

3) Yellow wot-box wire (rpm input) --> Pin #70 on connector C175E. Solder into Yellow/Violet wire.

4) Blue wot-box wire (Throttle Position Sensor) --> Pin #60 on connector C175B. Solder into Blue/White wire.

5) Orange wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power OUT) --> This replaces the black wire of the Red/Black paired wires. Solder into violet side wire end leading away from the fuse box. Violet wire under fuse 44 (15A). "Solder into the harness"? Not sure what that means.

6) Red wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power IN) --> Solder into violet wire end coming from the fuse box. "Solder into fuse wire block"? Not sure what that means either.

* In the DIY for the 11-14, it labels the PCM connectors as "T", "E" and "B" and indicates which is. Is there a way to differentiate which connector is "E" and which is "B" on the '15+?

* I'm still not 100% clear on soldering in and away from the fuse block. Can anyone explain this to me? I'm sure it would be easier if I was looking at the PCM right now. Stuck at work at the moment.

Thanks,
David.

SD_GT said:

1) (Short) Black wot-box wire --> Ground.

2) Green wot-box wire (clutch input) --> Pin #8 on connector C175B. Solder into Green/Violet wire.

3) Yellow wot-box wire (rpm input) --> Pin #70 on connector C175E. Solder into Yellow/Violet wire.

4) Blue wot-box wire (Throttle Position Sensor) --> Pin #60 on connector C175B. Solder into Blue/White wire.

5) Orange wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power OUT) --> This replaces the black wire of the Red/Black paired wires. Solder into violet side wire end leading away from the fuse box. Violet wire under fuse 44 (15A). "Solder into the harness"? Not sure what that means.

6) Red wot-box wire (Ignition Coil Power IN) --> Solder into violet wire end coming from the fuse box. "Solder into fuse wire block"? Not sure what that means either.

* In the DIY for the 11-14, it labels the PCM connectors as "T", "E" and "B" and indicates which is. Is there a way to differentiate which connector is "E" and which is "B" on the '15+?

* I'm still not 100% clear on soldering in and away from the fuse block. Can anyone explain this to me? I'm sure it would be easier if I was looking at the PCM right now. Stuck at work at the moment.

Thanks,
David.

Click to expand...

For the ignition coil wires when you cut the violet wire(in half) you will attach the orange wire to the side of the violet wire leading away from the fuse box and attach the red wire to the other half of the violet wire running back to the fuse box or plug. I had to do it on my SRT4 years ago. In essence the violet wire becomes 2 separate wires. I plan on installing my box this week.

Lol my crude iPhone diagram. O is orange, R is red, and FB is the Fuse Box.

Can you explain how this 2step works on the auto and what is needed to make it work?

Here are the 2 '15+ PCM harness pin outs as well.

The Game said:

For the ignition coil wires when you cut the violet wire(in half) you will attach the orange wire to the side of the violet wire leading away from the fuse box and attach the red wire to the other half of the violet wire running back to the fuse box or plug. I had to do it on my SRT4 years ago. In essence the violet wire becomes 2 separate wires. I plan on installing my box this week.

Click to expand...

The Game - you're the man! Thanks so much! Can you confirm that I have the wiring written out correctly?

Edit - So the only way to tell the connectors apart (B from E) would be to look for the pin count?

SolarFlare said:

Can you explain how this 2step works on the auto and what is needed to make it work?

Click to expand...

Once the box is wired in and you set up the software via laptop and the provided cable you should be able to hold the brake, floor the throttle and it will rev and hold at the RPM you set in the software. You can buy the N2MB WOT Box from Team Beefcake, Lethal Performance, or N2MB directly.

SD_GT said:

The Game - you're the man! Thanks so much! Can you confirm that I have the wiring written out correctly?

Edit - So the only way to tell the connectors apart (B from E) would be to look for the pin count?

Click to expand...

Looks like what you have listed is right. I posted the wiring info sent directly from John at N2MB to me a few posts up that he sent me. And yeah I've not looked at my connectors yet but I'd say you're right unless they're stamped on the plastic somewhere. I'm wanting to wire mine in but I'm out of town working til Wed. Just trying to help the rest of you guys out where I can.

The Game said:

Once the box is wired in and you set up the software via laptop and the provided cable you should be able to hold the brake, floor the throttle and it will rev and hold at the RPM you set in the software. You can buy the N2MB WOT Box from Team Beefcake, Lethal Performance, or N2MB directly.

Click to expand...

So you're saying that it is able to hold RPMs higher than the stock stall is capable?? That's more what I meant, I can wire this up to my bolt on auto and hold say a 2500 rpm launch?

SolarFlare said:

So you're saying that it is able to hold RPMs higher than the stock stall is capable?? That's more what I meant, I can wire this up to my bolt on auto and hold say a 2500 rpm launch?

Click to expand...

Yep you will be able to set it low or high, broader range than the built in 2 step and it also has a Nitrous Window Switch in the software for if you decide to go to throttle in a bottle. You just have to buy a separate harness to wire in with a nitrous kit.