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stiggy
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I had them on my S197 GT/CS (GT500 rears only) - kept the rear end much cleaner. Nice to have them front and back on the S550.Ordered RPI mud flaps. Cheap mod. With me getting the spacers I think they will be worth it.
SteveS
...Bon Scott Land...
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Yeah, mine (no R) too. It's currently livin it up down Texas way with a good friend of mine before he hand-carries it back in March. Not sure how that's gonna go
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SteveS
...Bon Scott Land...
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Just a steering wheel unfortunately. Looks like the one in the front of your car ;)
Jimboy2
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What's the difference between the R and non R wheel? Is it just the red stripe? Big price difference on CJPP between the 2
SteveS
...Bon Scott Land...
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The R has the red centre stripe and red stitching as opposed to the black stripe and white stitching of the 350 wheel. It also has a set of smoked bezels. Personally I think the GT350 wheel suits our cars better but each to their own.
SSC
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This is good video of the Roush active exhaust )
[ame]
[ame]
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Gibbo205
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- #326
HI there
Today I fitted the Eibach 15mm hubcentric rear spacer. After trial fitting 23mm spacers on the rear there was too much poke for my liking and I feel 20mm would also be poking too much. As such I decided to give 15mm a go, here is a link to the spacers I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-15...stang-S90-6-15-056-2015-WP-237-/172100752240?
These spacers are the best design I have come across as they weigh less and are in my view safer, not only that there is no issue with torquing the nuts to the full 148lb/ft as stated in the hand book.
However fitting this type of spacer is not the usual five minute job, give yourself an hour per side and take your time.
DIY Guide!
1. Start by jacking the car and removing the wheel (21mm socket)
2. Remove brake caliper, this is hardest part as it is hard to get a big wrench/socket in the wheel well, so patience needed. (18mm socket)
3. Remove the splash guard, by undoing the three 8mm bolts
4. With it removed be sure to support the calipers weight, I used some bricks!
5. Now remove the old studs one at a time by hitting with a small metal hammer, no need to go insane, just moderate force hits will do it, also put a 14mm nut on the bolts and hit that bolt with the hammer to preserve the threads on the stock studs.
6. Once the stud is out, put the new longer stud in place, note you will only get the studs in and out between the 11-12o'clock position and they will go in with gentle tapping, if they are not just rotate the hub a couple of mm and they will just tap into place.
7. Hammer the stud a little into the wheel hub, again using light force just to get the stud started.
8. Then with a tool I made, old wheel nut with top taken off and a larger washing, thread this onto the stud until tight to pull stud all the way through and then remove the hand made tool.
9. New spacer and new studs show time!
10. Nearly done!
11. Comparison old and new studs, 15mm spacer, so 15mm longer studs.
12. Finished!
13. Notes use blue loctite on splash shield and caliper bolts, splash shield bolts are just nipped up, caliper bolts give them everything you got. Put wheel back on, tighten, let car down, torque wheels, go for drive, re-torque wheels!
Results!
Pictures speak volumes:
The results are perfect, exactly what I wanted, there is no poke and the wheels are as flush to the body work your going to get without having poke. Car now looks higher in the rear and no longer looks like the suspension is collapsing in on it self, really please with the results and I far prefer this type of spacer that just comes with longer studs.
Unfortunately Eibach 20mm and 25mm design seem to go back to the design of attaching to the hub using current studs and having new studs in place, it is perfectly safe but I far prefer the idea of there only being one set of bolts to tighten (wheel to hub) rather than two sets (spacer to hub, wheel to spacer).
Once the mud flaps arrive I shall install the front 23mm spacers I have!
Driving impressions!
Car has not changed in anyway, all I would say is the car has a touch more understeer and more grip in the rear, which is what you would expect when just widening the rear track by 30mm. This car as standard has slight understeer towards limits, now the understeer is a little more noticable. Once I fit the 23mm (46mm track widening) the cars balance should be a bit better than factory, with just very slight understeer, we shall see.
But for me these 15mm spacers give the perfect no poke look, they weigh less and are safer. A perfect fit for GT PP cars, only downside being they take longer to install.
Today I fitted the Eibach 15mm hubcentric rear spacer. After trial fitting 23mm spacers on the rear there was too much poke for my liking and I feel 20mm would also be poking too much. As such I decided to give 15mm a go, here is a link to the spacers I purchased:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eibach-15...stang-S90-6-15-056-2015-WP-237-/172100752240?
These spacers are the best design I have come across as they weigh less and are in my view safer, not only that there is no issue with torquing the nuts to the full 148lb/ft as stated in the hand book.
However fitting this type of spacer is not the usual five minute job, give yourself an hour per side and take your time.
DIY Guide!
1. Start by jacking the car and removing the wheel (21mm socket)
2. Remove brake caliper, this is hardest part as it is hard to get a big wrench/socket in the wheel well, so patience needed. (18mm socket)
3. Remove the splash guard, by undoing the three 8mm bolts
4. With it removed be sure to support the calipers weight, I used some bricks!
5. Now remove the old studs one at a time by hitting with a small metal hammer, no need to go insane, just moderate force hits will do it, also put a 14mm nut on the bolts and hit that bolt with the hammer to preserve the threads on the stock studs.
6. Once the stud is out, put the new longer stud in place, note you will only get the studs in and out between the 11-12o'clock position and they will go in with gentle tapping, if they are not just rotate the hub a couple of mm and they will just tap into place.
7. Hammer the stud a little into the wheel hub, again using light force just to get the stud started.
8. Then with a tool I made, old wheel nut with top taken off and a larger washing, thread this onto the stud until tight to pull stud all the way through and then remove the hand made tool.
9. New spacer and new studs show time!
10. Nearly done!
11. Comparison old and new studs, 15mm spacer, so 15mm longer studs.
12. Finished!
13. Notes use blue loctite on splash shield and caliper bolts, splash shield bolts are just nipped up, caliper bolts give them everything you got. Put wheel back on, tighten, let car down, torque wheels, go for drive, re-torque wheels!
Results!
Pictures speak volumes:
The results are perfect, exactly what I wanted, there is no poke and the wheels are as flush to the body work your going to get without having poke. Car now looks higher in the rear and no longer looks like the suspension is collapsing in on it self, really please with the results and I far prefer this type of spacer that just comes with longer studs.
Unfortunately Eibach 20mm and 25mm design seem to go back to the design of attaching to the hub using current studs and having new studs in place, it is perfectly safe but I far prefer the idea of there only being one set of bolts to tighten (wheel to hub) rather than two sets (spacer to hub, wheel to spacer).
Once the mud flaps arrive I shall install the front 23mm spacers I have!
Driving impressions!
Car has not changed in anyway, all I would say is the car has a touch more understeer and more grip in the rear, which is what you would expect when just widening the rear track by 30mm. This car as standard has slight understeer towards limits, now the understeer is a little more noticable. Once I fit the 23mm (46mm track widening) the cars balance should be a bit better than factory, with just very slight understeer, we shall see.
But for me these 15mm spacers give the perfect no poke look, they weigh less and are safer. A perfect fit for GT PP cars, only downside being they take longer to install.
Jmeo
You said member ;)
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Great write up, thanks. Are these longer lugs the same thread as the OEM lugs? Did they come in the spacer kit?
slowhand99
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How do you think 15mm front and back would look? Or maybe 15mm front and back with a set of rears on the front as well which would have the same effect as your thicker spacer for the front but put more rubber on the ground? I'm not sure what any of this will do to the geometry.
You've reminded me that I need a new torque wrench (and list of torque settings; there is a risk to giving the caliper bolts everything you've got!).
Great write up, thanks.
P.S. where did your side stripes come from?
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