SpaceGhost
Well-Known Member
I had a 2008 M3. First oil service was required at 1200mi. I'll likely do that with the Mustang as well.
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990.2 miles and 91% life
do u do a lot of city miles? im at 4000+ and i my oil life isnt that low yet.Just changed mine at 2889 miles and 63%oil life left.
Went to Mobil 1 Full Synth and Moto 500s.
No ticking noise, thankfully!
Curious why you are going to run 40 or 50 weight oil?I'm going to change it between 1200 and 1500 miles + filter.
Contenders for oil are
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYIQ8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER rotated with Shell T6 Rotella 5W-50.
Corrected - I meant 5W-40 for both oils (not 5W-50). For high rpm application, 20 wt shears down and thins out quickly, thats why racings oils are never 20 wt at the top end! Coyote is def a high rpm motor. European formulas of engine oils are generally 5W-40 as those engines have high rpm operation or are boosted (run high temperatures).Curious why you are going to run 40 or 50 weight oil?
:lol:. I wasn't sure if you were going to race your GT or not. If you do, I under choosing those weights.Corrected - I meant 5W-40 for both oils (not 5W-50). For high rpm application, 20 wt shears down and thins out quickly, thats why racings oils are never 20 wt at the top end! Coyote is def a high rpm motor. European formulas of engine oils are generally 5W-40 as those engines have high rpm operation or are boosted (run high temperatures).
Most racers in HPDE, track, Auto-X (the serious ones) use 10-W50, 20W-50, 10W-60 (which I used in my BMW M6). Those are considered race oils and provide outstanding high rpm protection, when wear, temperatures and friction is the highest. Those oils have two issues though -
1) their low temperature wt means that they are thicker in cold operation, although unless you live in sub-zero temperatures it doesnt matter. But all things equal mean they theoretically provide less protection in cold starts.
2) they are racing oils so generally less to no detergents, meaning, varnishing wont be removed.
5W-40 is a good balance of cold performance while providing outstanding high rpm wear protection. Unlike the race oils, 5W-40 oils from Shell and Lubromoly (among others) also have high amounts of detergents. They are marketed as daily driving oils.
Unlike oils like 0W-50, the narrower range of 5W-40 means it generally more stable through its range.
I have not tested any of these assumptions above - they are based on conversations with racers, my experience and browsing bob the oil forum. LOL
I am def going to be auto-x'ing and pushing the car hard (another reason why I am keeping the engine stock, not s/c'ing it).:lol:. I wasn't sure if you were going to race your GT or not. If you do, I under choosing those weights.
I am going to continue to run full synthetic 5W-20 unless I plan on a heavy track day weekend. I am really leaning towards switching from the Motorcraft full synthetic to Castrol Edge extreme performance with Titanium based on all the oil samples that have come back and info from Bob's oil forum.