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Steeda MagneRide Sport Lowering Spring Issues

brianlh

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I've been trying to get my new lowering springs installed, and I've been having a ton of issues on the back. The fronts went in with only the expected hassle, just shaking and tight bolts etc. The rears, however, have been a massive headache.

The first question is that they appear to be labelled backwards. I'm putting images in (hopefully, this is my first thread). I've got the L and R next to each other, and the upper and lower isolators from the R of the car only fit on the spring labelled L. R appears to be coiled backwards. Not really an issue, but confusing for sure.

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The main issues have been removing the shock, spring, and installing the new spring. I cannot seem to physically remove the shock, it seems too big for the hole. I guess the non-magneride is much easier to remove, but there has to be a method for getting the magneride out, right?

As far as the spring, I was able to get it out after wedging a 4ft prybar between the rotor and frame, and have someone stand on it. Even then, it barely got low enough to slip out. Every video I've seen shows them pull it out with just some minor wiggling and bouncing. This was hours of effort for us. The subframe was free hanging on that side.

The install is going even worse. I can't seem to get it to seat fully in the bottom, because it runs into either the sway bar on the left, the axle on the right, and the thing it needs to seat into up top in the middle. It seems like it's about three inches too big to fit properly, but it's the same size as the old one.

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I guess I can try removing the sway bar to get a bit more room and flex for the cradle?

Am I forgetting anything? I've watched a bunch of videos and read other posts and it seems like I've done everything, I have no clue why it's so difficult.
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NGOT8R

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I’m in the middle of installing BMR Magneride rear springs on my 2019. I felt like there was some confusion about acquiring new replacement spring isolators for my car (all four originals were torn). The part number on one of the old factory lower isolators was not legible, but after some digging, I believe I was successful in locating the correct replacements.

I see evidence of some tearing in your R upper isolator. How do the bottoms look?

As for getting the MR shock out, it is doable, but it takes some finagling. If you want to make it easier, unbolt the toe and vertical links to allow the control arm to drop down more, which will open up the area surrounding the lower portion of the shock and allow for easier removal.

I did remove my sway rear bar for additional clearance when lowering the cradle, since I will be replacing it anyways with a new one. I used two floor jacks for this and removed all four cradle bolts. by doing this, it is not necessary to use a pry bar to remove or install the springs.

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NGOT8R

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Pics of my torn isolators. I could have reused them, but IMO, they are a normal wear item and I felt it makes sense to replace them to avoid unwanted noises. In addition, I’m already there, so why not do it?

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NGOT8R

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@brianlh in looking at the ends of the springs your photos, it looks like the Steeda springs may be mislabeled. Try installing the right spring on the left and the left on the right.
 

NGOT8R

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Here are some pics of my right and left RLCAs and a copy of the photo of your springs. See how it appears that your right spring should be installed into the left RLCA and the left in the right?

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brianlh

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Here are some pics of my right snd left RLCAs and a copy of the photo of your springs. See how it appears that your right spring should be installed into the left RLCA and the left in the right?

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Yea, I went straight to installing them "backwards", assuming that they were just mislabeled. They didn't fit either isolator if I try them as labelled. As far as my isolators, they're just a bit dirty and banged up, but not really worn. The car only has 18k miles on it, so they're still pretty new. No holes or anything, like I see in yours. I'll probably start with the sway bar, and move on to the cradle bolts if I still can't fit them. Won't be able to find out for a while though, not enough time in the day.
 

NGOT8R

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My isolators only have 8500 miles on them. Perhaps they’re more worn than yours because of my repeated hard launches at the drag strip.

Please keep us posted on how things shake out for you with getting the springs reinstalled? Thanks.
 

shogun32

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Miles aren't as relevant as age. You got the Steeda alignment dowels for your IRS, right?
 

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shogun32

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If your question is for me, yes, I have the Steeda alignment dowels.
No, op. It reads like he's trying to "cheat" by not dropping the IRS sufficiently. I'm guessing because he doesn't have the dowels.
 

NGOT8R

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...And a sharp edge on the spring. Smooth the edges of the end coil to save the next isolator.
Will do! The BMR spring edges appear to be even sharper than the factory ones. Time for me to get to smoothing đź‘Ť.
 
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brianlh

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No, op. It reads like he's trying to "cheat" by not dropping the IRS sufficiently. I'm guessing because he doesn't have the dowels.
I don't have dowels, I don't even know what they are. I undid everything shown in this video, which is the same as several other videos I've seen.
 

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If you are lowering the cradle along with removing upper shock bolts and unbolt the parking brake line they come out easy towards the front, only other thing you need to do is use a bar and put your body weight on it. Also I didnt look at steeda markings as they only go in one way but i did make sure i had the right springs and I just did mine over the weekend
 
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