'16 EB MT to the Dyno! (Thanks go to Unleashed!)

[ronemca]

Thank you, gents! I don't pretend to be an expert, so the variety of views and explanations are useful and appreciated!

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[lizardrko]

Yep!

You need an FMIC asap lol. Any more power than stock and ur asking for heat soak before ur out of 1st gear. Heat soak will lead to pulled timing and an increased chance of knocking. Its amazing what they do, even the stage 1 ICs like MAP street that I just installed.

 

[ronemca]

I will begin the hunt.

Which of the assorted offerings do we like? Mishimoto? Cobb?

Opinions welcome!

 

[Spykexx]

I will begin the hunt.

Which of the assorted offerings do we like? Mishimoto? Cobb?

Opinions welcome!

ATM all the way!

 

[Arno_ecobeast]

Levels or Wagner

 

[lizardrko]

I will begin the hunt.

Which of the assorted offerings do we like? Mishimoto? Cobb?

Opinions welcome!

If u go stage 1 mishimoto, MAP street or CPE are all good. I think CPE is the largest by a small margin on those but MAP is the only confirmed IC that be installed without removing the bumper. The others might be able to but there is no confirmation by the manufactures like MAP.

if you dont care about removing the bumper and decide to go stage 2 FMIC, then levels is the best bang for ur buck. For $90-100 more you can get ATM which has proven advantages over levels especially at the higher RPM range. Check out the last few pages of the fordcal tune thread for more detailed explanations by TheLion. He tested both FMICs on his car. Either one is miles ahead of stock, you will be happy with any aftermarket IC really.

 

[Spykexx]

If u go stage 1 mishimoto, MAP street or CPE are all good. I think CPE is the largest by a small margin on those but MAP is the only confirmed IC that be installed without removing the bumper. The others might be able to but there is no confirmation by the manufactures like MAP.

if you dont care about removing the bumper and decide to go stage 2 FMIC, then levels is the best bang for ur buck. For $90-100 more you can get ATM which has proven advantages over levels especially at the higher RPM range. Check out the last few pages of the fordcal tune thread for more detailed explanations by TheLion. He tested both FMICs on his car. Either one is miles ahead of stock, you will be happy with any aftermarket IC really.

Just to add to this, after seeing the OP's location being in Ontario...I'd just get a stage 1. Sure you could use a Larger one, but honestly Average summer temps look to be around 80 degrees. I'd say you won't be disappointed with a stage 1, but realistically prices aren't much different.

 

[5.0yote]

I am running the Mishimoto, I ran it on my big turbo setup and it did its job as it should, rated to 500-550hp or so. Not the cheapest but the quality is good. Air is under load just 3 to 5 degrees above ambient.

 

[Elgyn]

Careful, that guy calls Mustangs a deathtrap!

I hate that guy. Anit-mustang in almost every video. Die hard GM guy that keep loosing to stock mustangs

 

[ronemca]

So. Based upon the recommendations I read here I have indeed sourced a gently-used Mishimoto FMIC. It will be awhile before I can get it installed, but it's coming.

Meanwhile I am soliciting some new opinions...

I have been back-and-forthing a fair bit with Mr. T. McPhail @ UT, to whom I want to send tremendous props, BTW. He is a wizard! And he is showing remarkable patience with me, which means a lot to me AND in the service industry in general. Together, we have settled on a performance tune that is absolutely ROCKING the EB. If anyone is contemplating a tune and/or device purchase from UT, do it. It is MORE than WORTH the INVESTMENT.

Anyway - now I am peering deep, deep down into the gritty fold at the bottom of my wallet, and wondering about the next mod.

A friend has opined that with the addition of a bigger/better IC, the car might benefit from the installation of a bigger throttle body. I have no idea what diameter the OE part is (anyone?) but I am a bit skeptical about the benefit of upping the diameter of my TB to 65mm - which is very likely only 5mm or 6mm above stock. I have a strong suspicion that this particular mod would be a waste of some pretty serious coinage, because I suspect that the OE snail is not powerful enough to overwhelm the volume capacity of the OE TB (anyone?)

Meanwhile, a different colleague has suggested a WMI kit. Almost exactly the same price, but seems likely to deliver a higher RoR than the up-sized TB (anyone?)

 

[lazsep]

I've heard getting a bigger throttle body is a waist of money , I would probably get a wastegate

 

[ronemca]

I just KNOW that there are literally hundreds of guys eagerly watching for my updates to this thread! (Okay okay - calm down - there's enough for everyone!)

Indeed I too have heard that an enlarged TB is a waste, so I have decided to join the WMI team.

It's not actually here yet, but I've purchased it and it's on its way. Meanwhile I am planning the location and mounting solutions for the 3 main components. After that I'm guessing another multi-week interval of tuning and data-logging to get the car re-dialed-in, and it's back to the dyno!

 

[trippleyelo]

Nope I am knocking anyone or the numbers etc, just curious why the stock like drop in torque is coming from, it should not be that drastic between both runs. All I know is if there is enough heat and knock starts to occur I can see timing being pulled and torque drop, but his power kept rising with the exception of that dip, that is why I think its timing being pulled, or how the tuner has the torque management tuned. It could be a conservative thing. Not knowing the true numbers could be an issue too, 400 wheel torque is near the limit, and I am not sure the stock snail can safely make that, which leads me to believe the numbers may be skewed based on that dyno.

Either way something is off has a torque band of about 100RPMs then it just consistently drops. Off the line it will launch hard then by the time he hits 3rd gear its about 75-80 lb-ft drop. My car pulls till about 5700 but even then its a very mild drop to redline, unlike stock where it drops like his graph does at around 5K, he is dropping 1k before that although making more power at that rpm will still feel better than stock, but you want a trailing smooth transition of power if you can. It would be nice to see his power band increased between 3700 and 4750 or so around say holding 345 to 355 lb-ft of torque.

And not sure if this was answered for you ronemca, but yeah usually the runs are in one gear, either depending on your setup 4th or 5th gear.

I always enjoy your post mate..

:clap2:



Heat soak is we're the lose is get a intercooler from enjine and see the torque value
Rise .. the last pro tune I had was from speed factory in Seattle with this set up carried
Full torque to 5000 rpm and after that party is over when stock turbo..

 

[Rick B]

Careful, that guy calls Mustangs a deathtrap!

They can be, in the wrong hands. Yea, I know, everyone on here is an expert driver.

 

[Rick B]

I always enjoy your post mate..

:clap2:



Heat soak is we're the lose is get a intercooler from enjine and see the torque value
Rise .. the last pro tune I had was from speed city in Seattle with this set up carried
Full torque to 5000 rpm and after that party is over when stock turbo..

Where is your dyno posted, And who tuned it for that run.

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