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Whipple SC

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As important as true IAT's are you would think we would have a way to read them by now, especially with what we have invested in this system. :(
They are important but the calibration does its job. And if you want to read them, you just need a volt meter to measure ohms. Its a GT500 sensor and the ohm to temp conversion is readily available.

There are also N-Gauge, PLX, HP, SCT.....
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TooSoonJunior

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They are important but the calibration does its job. And if you want to read them, you just need a volt meter to measure ohms. Its a GT500 sensor and the ohm to temp conversion is readily available.

There are also N-Gauge, PLX, HP, SCT.....
This is exactly what I needed!! Thanks very much.
 

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Been waiting on mine for 5 weeks now. :frusty:
 

moffetts

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What's the difference between the prototype and production versions? I just picked up my kit but am still waiting on the heat exchanger.
 

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What's the difference between the prototype and production versions? I just picked up my kit but am still waiting on the heat exchanger.
Slightly different brazing, slightly different fin on the air side. No difference in performance, technically a nicer piece as they were low volume vs our high volume units.
 

gearhead2685

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after updating and changing these why didnt they switch the lower outlet to otherside so the exchanger doesnt require a hose that runs across the front of the car?
 

Whipple SC

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after updating and changing these why didnt they switch the lower outlet to otherside so the exchanger doesnt require a hose that runs across the front of the car?
How else can you make it a 2-pass vs a 1-pass? Only a 1 pass or 3 pass can have fittings on opposite ends. 3 pass has far too much pressure loss and hurts the performance through the charge air cooler.
 

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gearhead2685

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How else can you make it a 2-pass vs a 1-pass? Only a 1 pass or 3 pass can have fittings on opposite ends. 3 pass has far too much pressure loss and hurts the performance through the charge air cooler.
depends where the partition is i guess. i thought this was a dual pass more like a radiator here. with one inlet top right exit bottom left.

https://autodream.ca/wp-content/uploads/Cooling.jpg

I was just thinking their should be away to eliminate that hose that runs across the whole bottom of the bumper.

Looks like the ends are left and right sides on the whipple exchanger vs top and bottom in the link pic above^^
 
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Whipple SC

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depends where the partition is i guess. i thought this was a dual pass more like a radiator here. with one inlet top right exit bottom left.

https://autodream.ca/wp-content/uploads/Cooling.jpg

I was just thinking their should be away to eliminate that hose that runs across the whole bottom of the bumper.

Looks like the ends are left and right sides on the whipple exchanger vs top and bottom in the link pic above^^
That's still not a 2-pass and that's vertical flow vs horizontal. This is the only way of making a 2 pass other than making a tank on the bottom that transfers the water. There is no real issue with the hose so that's essentially how it has to be. For 2018, it will be different but for 15-17, we made the upgrade a 2-pass as its beneficial in cooling.
 

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That's still not a 2-pass and that's vertical flow vs horizontal. This is the only way of making a 2 pass other than making a tank on the bottom that transfers the water. There is no real issue with the hose so that's essentially how it has to be. For 2018, it will be different but for 15-17, we made the upgrade a 2-pass as its beneficial in cooling.
Ya i get what you are saying just thought there should be away to get rid of that long hose across the bottom. :shrug:
 

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No doubt with forced induction inlet temps IAT 1 and manifold temps post blower IAT2 are always important, and anything you can do to reduce or slow the heat and exchange is king. I will be doing this larger heat exchanger this winter, but the biggest improvement I made was sealing my air box from underhood heat and using the Vellosa tech Big Mouth to feed/Ram air into the closed box. It had a dramatic affect on inlet temps IAT1 which in turn feeds the blower and turn into IAT 2. Starting at a lower inlet temp is always important. Before my closed box I would seeing inlet temps street driving rise to 150 or 70 above ambient very fast at idle and slow driving and recovery took a little time. Now my inlet temps take more than 10 minutes to rise 15-20 over ambient and maxes at 25-30'when sitting long periods in heat. I also have a dedicated IAT 2 sensor read through ZT1 and NGauge and can very actual post blower temps. IAT2 moves much slower as the LTR does its thing. FYI, At WOT the AIT2 drops as air movement is now rushing through the system instead of bypassing.
 

TooSoonJunior

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How are deliveries going on these units? Ordered mine 6 weeks ago today.
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