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Engine knock? 3200 miles

blueylewis

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Hi,

I bought a 2017 GT in March and about a week after having it I started to hear a really faint knocking noise only when driving really slow and barely putting throttle input. Then it got worse, so like cruising through the tight streets of my neighborhood or parking lot in 2nd gear (auto) just slightly giving gas and it makes a consistent knocking noise with the revs of the engine.

I take it to my ford dealership, and they give it to the engine tech and he says it is the flex plate. They then tell me to bring the car back in two weeks so the transmission guy can look at it. Trans tech gets it and tears it apart and the flex plate it not damaged so he turns to the torque converter, they put in a new one, and this makes sense to me sort of but it doesn't fix the problem.

Now the engine guy has it back and they are telling me that "it barely makes the noise anymore." and the engine tech cannot find anything wrong.

Do I let them give it back and try to make it worse?

Should I take a loss and try to get another car?

Has anyone had this type of noise or similar issue. It almost sounds like the resonator pinging that some of the 2015's had problems with.

Any input would be appreciated. Oh and by the way they are waiting for an answer from Ford on what to do next, so I may be jumping the gun, I hope they say put in a new long block. Is that realistic?

Sorry for so many questions, I am sick over this and have been driving a ford escape for two weeks now. ugh:mad::ford:
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usgiorgi

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Does it sound like a bbq tick? You know on gas grills when you turn the ignitor off and it gives electrical spark? It just ticks.

Alot of us have that problem and nobody seems to know what the cause is. I think it's a heat shield expanding because it stops making that sound when the car is warmed up.
 

Gibbo205

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Plug in an SCT X4 (borrow one) datalog the car and see if its getting true engine knock so retarding timing. If it is then its either true engine knock or your getting false knock.

Either way you need to find a solution because pulled timing means your not making full power. :(
 

newkidnik

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I had the BBQ tick on my '14. Reared it's head after the first oil change at 3500 mi.

On this car, I waited until 6300 miles to change the oil, and I still got the BBQ tick. It's clear Ford puts some sort of additive in their factory fill.

If that's what you're hearing, it's not a big deal. Annoying and embarassing, yes, but not a big deal. On my '14, it went away after I did cams and supporting hardware after 25k miles of HARD driving.
 

Fredboy

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It's clear Ford puts some sort of additive in their factory fill.
They do not put an additive in the factory fill; it would make no sense. It's just Motorcaft 5w-20. If there was an extra additive, I would have noticed it in my UOA.
 

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BOBS550

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Piston slap

These 5.0s are noisy but great engines, our 15 GT had a slight knocking noise under normal driving or parked at 1200 to 2000 RPM.With 2K on the car went to Ford and they were VERY GOOD trying to fix it. Turned out to be wrist pin to loose on #3-6&7:doh: This may not be your problem but the dealer wanted to put in a complete engine but Ford would only OK a short block. Well it`s a long story but after 4 months and many attempts to fix it Ford RAV dept took very good care of us and put us in a new 17 GT :clap2:. Hope this is not your noise..Good Luck!
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newkidnik

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They do not put an additive in the factory fill; it would make no sense. It's just Motorcaft 5w-20. If there was an extra additive, I would have noticed it in my UOA.
And the second oil change on the '14 was to Motorcraft 5W-20, yet the tick started with the only difference being the removal of the factory fill. I also tried different oil filters. It didn't do anything; the tick was here to stay.

Why did the tick go away after a hardware change? Why would the '16 get a tick only after changing to oil of the same spec? The only logical solution is an additive. Fun fact, on my '14 Ford had me put in a mystery additive (did nothing), but it didn't show up on my UOA. The '16's tick is much less ... ticky than the '14.
 

HISSMAN

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Just wait till everyone starts posting about the new DI Coyote noises. For those not familiar with DI, they are in for quite a shock. Especially if they remove the engine cover.
 
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blueylewis

blueylewis

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it is more of a metalic knock. almost sounds like an exhaust pipe hitting somewhere, but they check the whole exhaust and it is not hitting anything.
 
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blueylewis

blueylewis

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your issue and mine sound very similar.

my 13 had the tick, it is nothing like that. It has been acknowledged by ford and they thought it was a torque converter.

Im glad they fixed you up. This dealership doesn't have the best rep, but it is what I have to deal with.
 

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Fredboy

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And the second oil change on the '14 was to Motorcraft 5W-20, yet the tick started with the only difference being the removal of the factory fill. I also tried different oil filters. It didn't do anything; the tick was here to stay.

Why did the tick go away after a hardware change? Why would the '16 get a tick only after changing to oil of the same spec? The only logical solution is an additive. Fun fact, on my '14 Ford had me put in a mystery additive (did nothing), but it didn't show up on my UOA. The '16's tick is much less ... ticky than the '14.
It could be number of issues, including dry starting the car after the oil change. The only way to know for certain is to disassemble the engine and find the culprit. It's kind of a baseless claim to insinuate that there is a special additive in the factory fill with virtually no evidence to support it.
 

Grimace427

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And the second oil change on the '14 was to Motorcraft 5W-20, yet the tick started with the only difference being the removal of the factory fill. I also tried different oil filters. It didn't do anything; the tick was here to stay.

Why did the tick go away after a hardware change? Why would the '16 get a tick only after changing to oil of the same spec? The only logical solution is an additive. Fun fact, on my '14 Ford had me put in a mystery additive (did nothing), but it didn't show up on my UOA. The '16's tick is much less ... ticky than the '14.
I can't say specifically to the Coyote engine since my professional experience is with Mercedes, however I've noticed several times after doing an initial oil change(especially an early first oil change) that the engine can become noisier from the first time the engine loses oil pressure(from check valves and such). Things like timing chain tensioners operate both off spring tension and oil pressure. Normally they hold pressure thanks to check valves but for some reason on specific engines when the oil is drained this pressure is dropped or lost completely. When the engine is started again and oil pressure builds up something within these orifices or check valves is changed and the result is a little more noise from the engine.

Again this is just my experience working at a dealer for 11 years and isn't my assumption as to what is going on with those certain Coyote owners. FWIW my 2011 Coyote has 55k+ miles and the only noise comes from my longtubes.

It could be number of issues, including dry starting the car after the oil change. The only way to know for certain is to disassemble the engine and find the culprit. It's kind of a baseless claim to insinuate that there is a special additive in the factory fill with virtually no evidence to support it.

This is how I feel as well.



Just wait till everyone starts posting about the new DI Coyote noises. For those not familiar with DI, they are in for quite a shock. Especially if they remove the engine cover.

Dude seriously. I've been saying this for a while especially with how much complaining is present on this forum. I'm betting it will be once a week minimum that there will be a noisy-engine thread popping up. :frusty:
 

Donaldman

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Try these 4 things to resolve it, or hopefully resolve it.

1. Run a fuel/injector cleaner
2. Clean/replace your air intake filter
3. Clean your MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner
4. Change your oil/check your oil level, make sure its full

That should solve alot of knocking problems, also run better gas, think of switching gas stations.
 
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blueylewis

blueylewis

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So an update on this. My dealership has ordered a gasket kit, which to me says they are going into the motor.

I am not complaining about little noises these coyote motors make. I also am not asking for ideas on what this noise is, because the dealership can figure that out hopefully and anyone here trying to figure it out would be impossible due to not hearing the noise first hand.

My questions regard keeping the car. Also one thing to note is I have not changed to oil in the car, so no need to argue about what ford puts in the first fill.
 
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blueylewis

blueylewis

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Plug in an SCT X4 (borrow one) datalog the car and see if its getting true engine knock so retarding timing. If it is then its either true engine knock or your getting false knock.

Either way you need to find a solution because pulled timing means your not making full power. :(

I thought the ford dealership would be able to see if a knock sensor picked anything up, but I guess it did not. The engine tech is still saying it is not an engine noise and the trans tech is saying the same.

Now they are going to tear the engine open and see if they can find anything.
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