What's your Cylinder Head Temp?

[TheLion]

The Ford diagram isn't showing up.

Also, with the stock thermostat of 178°, I'm sitting right at 180° give or take a few degrees based on ambient temp and load. I was wondering if I could expect to stay around 160° with your thermostat. I didn't compare with TheLion because he has a non-PP car whereas I have a PP car. I've seen non-PP car owners say they stay around 190°-200° whereas, again, I stay right on the rated thermostat temperature.

If the radiator has enough reserve capacity then you should expect to see a temperature drop if about 18F on average.

If your PP radiator does not have enough reserve capacity to regulate coolant temp down, then you would not expect to see the expect drop in temperature.

All heat exchangers have a thermal maximum limit. At maximum thermal load of the heat exchanger, the thermostat should be fully open, or possibly just before maxim depending on how the spring rates are set and their linearity.

From what your describing, the factory thermostat is not fully open, indicating there is still reserve capacity. From all of my experiences, fully open or near fully open results in a coolant temp about 15 to 20F above the thermostat starting point. So if you have a 180F thermostat, worst case coolant temps would typically be around 195F to 200F.

Lower temperatures indicate lighter load conditions where the thermostat is not fully open. Spring rates are not 100% linear in real life, so there's a bit of curve to the temp vs. flow rate...

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[Juben]

I understand what you're saying and that's what I wanted more clarity on in asking Livernois about testing on a PP car.

If my car would see temps 15°-20° above the thermostat starting point, then that'd put me around 175°-180°, which is where am at right now. That'd make the upgrade worthless to me.

For instance, I pulled a somewhat longer hill through 3rd gear (beginning at around 3,500 rpms) and part of the way through 4th at probably 85%-90% throttle and my CHTs never went over 186°. That was even after extended driving at speeds lower than 50 mph, mostly 40 mph, for a half-hour or better.

If I had a non-PP, I'd buy the thermostat based on the information I've seen thus far. However, I've yet to see anything on a PP car and that's what I'd like to know. I could buy one and install it myself, for sure, but it's gonna be a lot of time and effort spent to do it for gains that might not even be there. I don't have a lot of my tools and stuff here in Tennessee, plus, I can't change it where I currently live due to the housing rules. I'll have to drive back to Virginia (4.5 hours) to even swap them out. That's not a big deal for a turbo upgrade or something similar like that, but for something small that might not even have a return on my investment keeps me weary until I see some results.

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

The base physics do not get altered based upon the better radiator. The fact that you do not see the same elevated temps proves that our methodology to keeping the car cool is correct.

 

[Livernois Motorsports]

The Ford diagram isn't showing up.

Ford Tstat:

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/RenderIllustration.ashx?id=390324030&f=3&n=3M4Z8255A

EvenFlo Tstat:

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/cache/ex_q90_w680_h_images_ePIM_original_ZZ3_LPP2515-160_side_left.jpg

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