Tuning DSR1 - Please help! Have no idea what im looking at.

[Bsingh897]

I have DSR on the advance tuning section it lets me choose three options for each individual speaker set. I currently have Four channels, front speaker, Active Tweeter Setup, Door Speaker and subwoofer. It lets me tune it individually. My question is what’s the best setting for me to use for each of the channels? As for as low pass HZ and high pass HZ. I’m new to this so I’m not sure if I’m making sense but I will attach a screenshot of the DSR1 configuration for each channel. I’m basically trying to find out the best setting for each channel. I attached a link and product description of the speakers that are I am using. I’m trying to tune it best I can but I’m not sure how to exactly do it or what frequency to choose. I know the tweeters is high pass and subwoofer is low pass and my door speaker I’m not sure which one I should choose.



Here are the available settings/configuration for each channel

Filter Type:

All Pass, Low Pass, High Pass, Band Pass

Filter Slope 6DB all the way to 24 DB (max for subwoofer/tweeter) and to 48 DB ( Max for mid bass)

High Pass Frequency ( I can choose HZ)

And Low Pass Frequency ( I can choose HZ)

Heres a screenshot of what it looks like:





Here are the specification of my setup:

Subwoofer Amp:

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-800-1D-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B00TKEKNUO

· Class D MOSFET Monoblock Power Amplifier

· Peak Power at 1 Ohm: 1,200 Watts | RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 800 Watts

· Frequency Response: 20Hz - 250Hz, On-board Bass EQ Switch with +6 or +12dB boost at 45Hz

· Featuring 4-Way Protection Circuitry and 4 Gauge Power & Ground Input Terminals for Maximum Current Flow

· Stable at 1 ohm | Remote Subwoofer Level Control Included

· Highly Efficient Heatsink Design allows for Maximum Reliability & Performance



Subwoofer Speaker:

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-S...id=1564800166&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&th=1

· 10-Inch Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer

· Peak Power: 1,200 Watts | RMS Power: 600 Watts

· 2.5" 4-Layer High Temperature Copper Voice Coil

· High Roll Foam Surround - High Flux Ferrite Motor

· Useable Frequency Response Range: 30 Hz - 300 Hz | Sensitivity: 82.5 dB


Tweeter/Speaker:

https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-SPX-65C-Performance-Component/dp/B01BFO1D7S

· Peak Power Handling: 400 Watts (Pair)

· RMS Power Handling: 200 Watts (Pair)

· PMI Composite Multi-Layered Cone and Premium Butyl Surround

· 1-inch High Performance Aluminum Dome Tweeters with Silk Surrounds

· Impedance: 4 Ohms | Sensitivity: 92 dB

· Frequency Response: 42 - 20,000 Hz | Powerful Neodymium Magnets

· Woofer Mounting Depth: 2.64 inch

Sponsored

 

[Cathul]

First, read and view as many articles/videos on how to tune a car audio system as possible. Really, do this first.
When you have done this and really want to do this on your own you now know (after reading/viewing et. al.) that you need a RTA program for your laptop or tablet and a calibrated microphone.

When you have this, I would do it like follows....

1. use the passive crossover for now. This way you just have to deal with front full range and sub in the DSR1 which makes it much easier as you only have to deal with one crossover point.
2. use baseline settings for the crossover. Highpass 80 Hz 24db Linkwitz-Riley for the front components, this means front components will everything 80Hz and up and everything below that point is muted 24 db per octave.
3. use baseline settings for the sub crossover. Lowpass 63 Hz 24db Linkwitz-Riley for the sub. Same as for fronts, but everything above 63 Hz is muted.

Remember, this is just a baseline if using Linkwitz-Riley crossovers. If you have a gap in the frequency response around these frequencies you need to adjust the crossover points.

As you've read and viewed a lot of articles and videos at this point you know that you need a reference curve imported into your RTA to start level matching the subwoofer and the front component system with the level adjustments in the DSR1 app.
After you level matched the two systems to the reference course (or house curve as it is often called) you do time alignment. Measure the distance to the sub, middle of front left and front right and input these numbers into the app (the app has a help function that explains how to do that, otherwise watch additional videos that covers this).
After you've done this you need to level match left front and right channel, because when you sit in the drivers seat the front left is a little bit louder than the right channel just because it's nearer to your head.
After level matching left and right channel you start to equalize the peaks down to match the reference curve first for left, then for right channel and then check with both channels for additional peaks that are only there when both channels are active.

Remember to read/watch articles and videos on how to do that. Take your time, don't hurry, and maybe do one step after the other on consecutive days if needed.

Take your time! It takes a lot of practice to get it right. So concentrate on one step after the other, get familiar with the programs you have to use first, measure twice instead of once.

Register yourself in a car audio forum like diymobileaudio.com (if you don't already have done so) and ask for help there, lot more information in such specialized forums than here and in addition you may find someone near you that can help you with tuning your system.
Ask for help or go to a shop if this whole process is too intimidating to you. Nothing wrong with asking for help, believe me. It's better asking for help than having a system sound like crap.