Time to replace the clutch?

[SorryOfficer]

Pulled the car out of the garage last night to head over to Lowes. I don't daily the car, but it does come out of the garage once a week minimum for some around town runs. Turn the wheel to the left and start off in 1st - there's a bit of hesitation, but I just chalked it up to the wheels being fully turned to the left and the car requiring more effort to move.

Down the road at the stop sign, I start the car in 1st ... takes off normal, but literally 15 feet in there's a noticeable jerk, in the driveline, not the front seat :headbonk:

Replicated this every single take off from a dead stop. From 1st to 2nd the car feels fine. There aren't any noticeable differences in the car at idle or at maintained speeds. Hard takeoffs the car powers through the stumble/jerk but its still present.

Car - 2016 Base GT 6SP MT, 93 Tune (Steeda), Steeda CAI, Steeda Progressive Springs. 8k miles on the motor - car has seen normal wear for a mustang. Done a couple 1/4 mile passes, some hard takeoffs, a couple burnouts - but definitely no thrashing and 'abuse'.
Me - Over a half a million miles on manual transmission cars within the last 10 years (I drive a lot). Current car has 125k miles on the clock and the clutch grabs perfect.

TLDR - Take off in first, car hesitates after clutch is fully released, then drives fine from 2k rpm to 5k rpm. Car doesn't make any odd noises, rows through the gears fine. I haven't gotten into Reverse fast enough to check if its an issue there, but why would it be?

I'm going to disconnect the battery, reset back to the factory tune, and take it out tonight to see if theres possibly something with the car 'learning' from hard take offs (doubtful, very doubtful). For the time it takes, its worth a shot. Car has had progressive springs on it for the last 120 miles. I did the install myself, and I double checked everything on the rear subframe for clearance, and fit before pulling it out of the garage. I'm not going to suspect the suspension has anything to do with this issue.

Anyone experience something similar? Even sound like a clutch issue? Reading the horror stories of broken clutch plates on here doesn't give me any confidence in my OEM clutch.

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[Donaldman]

i am having sort of similar issues but to me just feel like its almost like a computer issue or driveline slack + computer issues. but nonetheless subscribed for more deets.

 

[ghostnote]

Question: is the car's oil temp cold when this happens? In my experience, on first gear and cold oil, the car stutters a bit from 1k to 2.5k rpm.

 

[SorryOfficer]

Question: is the car's oil temp cold when this happens? In my experience, on first gear and cold oil, the car stutters a bit from 1k to 2.5k rpm.

The outside temps have fallen in this area over the last several weeks, but I'm a firm believer in the car getting up to temp before the wheels move.

Temp was 70 degrees outside last night when I took it out. Car was at normal running temps, and these symptoms happened over the course of a 15 mile drive. From pulling it out of the driveway, to pulling it back into the garage.

:frusty:

 

[jasonstang]

Don't sound like clutch issue to me.
Clutch is simple, it's either slipping or not.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Car only has to stop its high idle/high oil pressure sequance and settle down before you drive off, it's a waste of gas to sit there until it's fully warm. It'll warm up a 60 seconds once it starts driving some.

This doesn't sound like a clutch issue to me. Can tell if it's a clutch if you are in a higher gear and are actually able to launch from a stop.

 

[SorryOfficer]

Car only has to stop its high idle/high oil pressure sequance and settle down before you drive off, it's a waste of gas to sit there until it's fully warm. It'll warm up a 60 seconds once it starts driving some.

This doesn't sound like a clutch issue to me. Can tell if it's a clutch if you are in a higher gear and are actually able to launch from a stop.

Peace of mind for me - the amount I drive the car, I should be trying to waste gas so it doesn't sit in the tank for long.

So you're saying 3rd gear from a stop and I shouldn't feel any hesitation? I'll give that a try tonight when I get home.

 

[jasonstang]

Peace of mind for me - the amount I drive the car, I should be trying to waste gas so it doesn't sit in the tank for long.

So you're saying 3rd gear from a stop and I shouldn't feel any hesitation? I'll give that a try tonight when I get home.

Excessive idling causes oil dilution and reduces lifetime of the catalytic converter.
You are doing more harm than good beating on the warmed up engine with diluted oil thickness and a cold transmission.
I start mine up, back out of the garage and start driving gently until oil temperature is in range (long after coolant is in range) and then start beating on her.

 

[SorryOfficer]

Excessive idling causes oil dilution and reduces lifetime of the catalytic converter.
You are doing more harm than good beating on the warmed up engine with diluted oil thickness and a cold transmission.
I start mine up, back out of the garage and start driving gently until oil temperature is in range (long after coolant is in range) and then start beating on her.

Thanks for the feedback.

I warm up my car based off the owners manual instructions (to the first hash mark beyond the cold line - which I consider running temp). If for any reason it was implied that I let my car warm up for 30 minutes, i'll provide clarification - I do not excessively let my car idle. It has never shut itself off due to excessive idle (which is a feature on these cars). It has probably sat idling in my garage for 5-7 minutes max. However long it takes me to get upstairs, make a cup of coffee and get back to the garage.

I'll try to get the thread back on topic though as I don't see this issue having any fluids as a contributing factor.

Anything in the driveline to look for specifically? Such as slop or play in the shaft / axles?

 

[jasonstang]

Thanks for the feedback.

I warm up my car based off the owners manual instructions (to the first hash mark beyond the cold line - which I consider running temp). If for any reason it was implied that I let my car warm up for 30 minutes, i'll provide clarification - I do not excessively let my car idle. It has never shut itself off due to excessive idle (which is a feature on these cars). It has probably sat idling in my garage for 5-7 minutes max. However long it takes me to get upstairs, make a cup of coffee and get back to the garage.

I'll try to get the thread back on topic though as I don't see this issue having any fluids as a contributing factor.

Anything in the driveline to look for specifically? Such as slop or play in the shaft / axles?

Trying to think why it would do that when you are not changing gear and stuff. Seems weird that the engine would just randomly cut power for no reason. Maybe a bad throttle body?

 

[blitzzfury]

I'd suggest having the guys look at your tune. maybe do some data logging and then check. I haven't had any issues with my stock EB, though people have complained about higher gears having driveline slack that results in a clunk/small jump.

 

[whatsup62]

I went through two OEM clutches...the first was Ford's problem at 900 miles...the second was mine for boosting. Both times when clutch failed there was no warning. Pedal went to floor and never came back up. Have you tried turning the traction control completely off? Hold traction control button in for 5-7 seconds and "Advanced trac control off" should pop up on info screen. Click ok...now you have disabled 98% of the nannies.
See what happens...it sounds traction control related to me...TC does affect clutch engagement...tunes dont change.

 

[SorryOfficer]

I went through two OEM clutches...the first was Ford's problem at 900 miles...the second was mine for boosting. Both times when clutch failed there was no warning. Pedal went to floor and never came back up. Have you tried turning the traction control completely off? Hold traction control button in for 5-7 seconds and "Advanced trac control off" should pop up on info screen. Click ok...now you have disabled 98% of the nannies.
See what happens...it sounds traction control related to me...TC does affect clutch engagement...tunes dont change.

Definitely not the tune - I've run the Steeda tune for over 6000 miles without a hiccup.

I've driven the car with AdvanceTrac On, Off, and in SportMode (double tapping the traction control button). I've disconnected the battery, and reset the tune. Took the car back out for a drive after.

It really feels like slop, or play in the driveline. If I don't come to a complete stop, and roll along at 5mph, go from second to first, and take off while rolling (rolling stop basically) the car doesn't have that hesitation. But if I come to a full stop, and start in first, it has the stumble/hesitation.
It's not a stumble with the engine ... engine maintains RPMs and sounds right.
The only other thing I noticed is that its more prominent when I take a left turn from a stop. I made a few right turns from a stop, and it wasn't as evident that there was hesitation.

I've ruled out tune, throttle body, fluid, and anything electronic. Only happens from a dead stop, and nothing noticeable changes with the engine.

It goes in for an oil change on Saturday morning, so maybe i'll see if they can check it out for any excessive play.

 

[tj@steeda]

Definitely not the tune - I've run the Steeda tune for over 6000 miles without a hiccup.

Thank you for the feedback - [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] may have some insight but I, personally, have not seen this issue, specifically from a tun.

Best Regards,

TJ

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