Question about Misfire codes Gen3

[BlueCollarDaily]

Is P0308 the #8 Cylinder or the 8th in the firing order?
I could swap 8 with 5 and that would for SURE be one that's never remotely acted like it tossed a code and nice looking spark plug as well...
On other side 1 with 3 would be very similar situation.
3,7,8 have tossed codes ( I was just reading on HPtuners and any one could involve the others but by FAR P0303 and P0308 are the most persistent ) as I reset codes where they arent permanent and the engine tries to idle. It's funny there are periods it will line out then out of know where boom stalling starts.
Also trying to verify what field is the port fuel rail sensor, as BAP is a variable...
Vacuum starts at 20 cold then as rpm drops the lowest I see it is 15-16 on the lower 650rpm oscillation but at 750 its 17 to 18....

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[BlueCollarDaily]

Was looking back a few things stick out from stock throttle body.....2 things stick out...
.62lbs/min MAF vs .92-1.02lbs MAF ..I understand the area has changed but why does it need more air supposedly the 47s have a more efficient pattern than the stock ones...and sure blower is turning faster but its bypassed...
That leads to load it used to be 16% now its 20.xx and 23.xx AC on......guess the drive pulleys are heavier....

 

[BlackandBlue]

I don’t have any solid advise on what it could be. If I am reading correctly it hasn’t ran right since getting it back from the shop. That screams simple mistake. This kit should be plug and play.

When I troubleshoot I always try the easiest to the hardest solution.

I would take apart every touched connection apart and check them. Touch everything installed.

It very well could be a complex problem like a bad injector or malfunctioning sensor but in my experience it’s usually some dumb problem that was overlooked 6 times because it was “too” simple. I don’t get lucky a lot and a bad injector would fall in the luck category.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

It's hard to recall I cant imagine after what it took to get most of the parts in, and missing the install window with a guy that books up 2 or 3 weeks out...that I didnt hit it once or twice on way home and maybe didnt notice it cause I didnt do a lot of idling. The car felt strong that night and next day, even now...it simply misfires in one or more cylinders under say 2800rpm....
It's supposed to go back to the installer again this coming week we have been coordinating on checks I've done same as with vendor...they are both tired of me.( can't blame em if I'm disgusted with it, then they by nature would be disgusted with me by proxy) ...I'm " that guy" whose plug n play stuff wasnt...
I'm just the opposite something rare like a bad injector is exactly something that would happen to me...you cant even imagine the insanity of getting it ordered and all to my residence with a $1000 price drop after I ordered but while I was still waiting on parts that showed up in a box with a hole the size of your fist from 2wks before the price drop and I was still waiting haha after I emailed multi people at the vendor and company multiple times to make sure it was in stock...to not have a repeat of stage 1.....and here I am still not running weeks after that getting ready to pay for more labor.
It was same way on first stage just absolutely gas washing the hell out of cylinders on the first and last new car of my life....because of an IAT sensor and harness....hell the first time I hit it...from installer after break in...put my on the side of the road in limp mode almost got my run over going uphill in a 70mph zone due to bad extension harness. Those things were quickly resolved and expected on a new kit ( the gas washing was unfortunate )
I know WILL be a good kit once items are right on it. It addresses all the short comings of stage 1....it WILL be great but Luck...is something I've definitely never had....hehe.....I could tell the little I got to use it ( maybe could drive it keeping it out of the misfire zone but I'm not taking the chance till he gets it back ).
I'll probably have him do compression and leak down test. If I am to assume the MAF and tune are correct. It literally has to be injectors and or fuel pressure they are happy with the logs they requested on which include fuel pressure I'm fairly sure...so....
It's either simple or read bad is the conclusion I'm slowly coming to.....

 

[ugstang17]

Is P0308 the #8 Cylinder or the 8th in the firing order?
I could swap 8 with 5 and that would for SURE be one that's never remotely acted like it tossed a code and nice looking spark plug as well...
On other side 1 with 3 would be very similar situation.
3,7,8 have tossed codes ( I was just reading on HPtuners and any one could involve the others but by FAR P0303 and P0308 are the most persistent ) as I reset codes where they arent permanent and the engine tries to idle. It's funny there are periods it will line out then out of know where boom stalling starts.
Also trying to verify what field is the port fuel rail sensor, as BAP is a variable...
Vacuum starts at 20 cold then as rpm drops the lowest I see it is 15-16 on the lower 650rpm oscillation but at 750 its 17 to 18....

Yes P0301-P0308 are cylinder specific. On a Ford 1-4 are bank one passenger side and 5-8 are bank 2 drivers side. Just a reminder since your background is GM and they put evens on one side and odds on the other. Cylinders numbers are referenced front to rear to sum up. P0300 is a general misfire code and P0316 is a misfire within the first 1000 RPM of startup. Don't believe these codes have changed on 18+ Coyotes. They have remained standard for years.

So P0303 would be third back on passenger side head/bank and P0308 would be very back cylinder on drivers side.

17-18"Hg is solid at 750. And of course depending on how the tuner is playing with VCT to alter the sound of the exhaust note can effect that slightly. I was looking to something stupid like 8"Hg at idle like it had a cam in it.

Double check for proper fitment between the TB and the MAF. make sure there is no unmetered air finding its way in. Logic tells me that would be indicated by a change in LTFT's trying to trim out the lean state and if it is successful you may not getting lean code before getting a misfire code.

You've tried swapping COP's between 2-3 and 7-8 as well to see if the misfire cylinder code changes or stays the same correct? Just double checking.

Then the next thing to do would be to pull FI 3,7,8 and first make sure the O-rings are not nicked in the intake side which could also be a source of unmetered air.

read your plugs on 3,7,8 as well to see if there is any lean or unburn condition on them. They are at least a 1 step colder plug correct?

Last make sure your rail pressure is there. As I recall 35psi at idle was common on 14 and older. May be different on these S550's so search to verify my number in the event this has changed or my pea brain is failing me this morning. The BAP may be an issue or the wiring harness that pairs it to the fuel pump but I would think you would see that in fuel demand percentage running extremely high or start fluctuating or hunting eradically (sp?) while sitting at idle when this problem starts occurring.

I'm about out of ideas after this. If I think of anything else I will PM or post up.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Thanks for the confirmations and suggestions.
Yes, I am debilitated right now waiting on multiple surgeries but I dragged out there yesterday pulled up and stool and just kinda went over everything that could leak air behind the MAF, including the MAF gasket itself since that was moved to 113mm horn from stock..I also sprayed to see if blower base and gaskets to throttle body ect ect....but realistically only the injectors were touched around the supercharger area.
On the subject of coil packs when I changed the plugs which was immediately following the issue aka next day, it had so little run time from pickup to noticing the issue to being commanded to do that by manufacturer. I'm not sure they had ran long enough at stage 2 to show a problem ( maybe 20minutes ). Its a specific plug and gap for warranty so I didnt order a new set.
Also now I have more to work with...i have 2 very good control cylinders, aka ones that never thru a code and plugs looked swimmingly...#1 for passenger side and #5 for driver side. So today I'll probably pulls those plugs put new SP-522s, inspect the ones I pull then do compression and leakdown test ( assuming my gear has threads that will match this). I would just do compression but these engines are breaking the 2nd ring land a lot when they fail, I've seen examples where compression didnt show but leak down did...the Whipple dude drove his car to the mechanic and when they pulled engine and pushed the piston out to fell to pieces hehe....so with top compression intact it might not be a dramatic drop...so I'll just do the leak down at least on 2 as a control and 8..
Also I know I have a stable coil pack ( let's be real then car is new it was running they weren't touched all the packs are good ) on 2 for sure so it will be moved to 8....p0303 is tougher as it's the weird remote pack to clear the GPI.....I tired to order one from the parts houses yesterday no luck. I may hold off and have Ford do a power balance test havent make up my mind its awfully hot and on my meds I'm not even supposed to be getting in heat and direct sun......
I did think about cutting an oring, I've dont that myself before on other projects up top it would leak fuel and down bottom, I think spray testing would yield something. But being as that was an installed part I'd be curious...to see them thats beyond normal wear items so I'll let the ASE guy check those he installed them anyway it's his responsibility to make sure they are right, its beyond a normal wear item and not something I've been instructed to look at by manufacturer.
I am VERY curious about fuel pressure that's another huge variable since the installation of the BAP and the fact YDBT dude has his fuel pump to bad just weeks into his 3rd gen ownership.....I presume there is no shrader valve but there is a sensor I just need to figure out the PID to log it....however even at that wouldnt the STFT/LTFT just slam full positive? I could understand weak pump but this system is entirely MAF based? AIR in measured via frequency scales to available area...puslewidth commanded via table.....if that's not enough to attain commanded AFR measured by the dual widebands, then closed loop would add fuel till it couldnt. I would also not espect it to stabilize with rpm...
I could see the tune being off and not driving the fuel pump percentage, I could see it being off from MAF and not commanding correct pulse with BUT the simple fact, by my simpleton mind, is that this is a closed loop system if lambda 1.00 is commanded and achieved no matter if the MAF is off or pumps or anything in how it has to add or subtract fuel 14.1 per bank is 14.1... though inefficient wouldnt cause real misfires.
Only an individual cylinder not receiving fuel ( individual injector cause if the furtheres from the source has it ( #1) then the closest port should ( #7,8) and they give misfires with the only exception being a bad injector coil, pcm driver ( new car and ohms check out for injectors), clogged injector, stuck injector /injector closed or open ( allowing either a lean condition or rich that with enough open command either passes the required fuel at 3000rpm or is able to burn the leaking fuel at approx 3000rpm worth of demand). Which I've offered to pay for another set out of my pocket ( or charge my card and hold if they fix it dont charge if they dont I have a spare set of Lu47s with 30mins runtime to sell on here hehe...seems like a lot of money but labor is rough and getting it in for work rougher ).
Or the cylinder has correct fuel but doesnt have spark....aka coils ( new car) and plugs ( changed and gapped and previous running at least acceptable).
Or enough cylinder pressure for efficient combustion with the commanded amount of fuel vs timing vs known cylinder pressures ect ect from tune AND the absence of contaminants such as oil and raw fuel that may inhibit said combustion ..any major component to this such as tune or fuel pressure ( at and off idle) should affect all....
One of the reasons I was desperate to try a new set of injectors even at my cost to me...is that while I know on this engine sensor sensitivity, VCT, MAF, split out IAT2, Crank position sensor that's so sensitive it has to be relearned after a clutch replacement as huge variables yes. However 3 major area were touched and while lots could initiate random misfires very fuel could cause individual cylinders to misfire to permanent state.
That cylinder let's say 8....hasn't got enough fuel or to much ( unlike when the initial IAT,Harness, Tune was bad where I could smell fuel in gas, car and see it quite insane amount out the pipes I detect none of that now ) from idle to 2700rpm while others on its bank do.
It isnt getting spark to probogate a flame front via spark plug ( changed plug and gapped) or coil pack ( new and changed ) or injector driver ( new car ).
It cannot build enough cylinder pressure for mechanical reasons none of which are good from idle to 2700rpm to effectively burn all the fuel efficiently or has contaminants such as oil impeding that process. As it's in troubleshooting phase with effort to reduce miles and not drive it till the root issues are resolved it's impossible to say if oil consumption has went up...
To me with this awesome dual bank wide band closed loop system while a lot of variables could throw the system as a whole off...including the suggestion harmonics from a tensioner I changed....very few could target and effect individual cylinders....
I know there are things my lack of platform knowledge cant account for but taking it back to basics....AIR, Spark, Fuel and Cylinder Pressure seems to be where to focus given its individual cylinder issues...
I know it has air, the adjacent cylinders have fuel and they do too after 2700rpm, it should be getting spark which has been double checked...that only leaves individual cylinder fuel delivery via clogged or leaking injector or cylinder pressure/contaminants...
I could be wrong but this seems like its gonna end with 1 part ( injector ) or a bunch of em....
Thanks everyone who has taken time out to post seriously, I refer to them as life minutes we only have so many to spend they are finite if you try or tried to help me sincerely thank you!

 

[ugstang17]

If you are getting oil contamination creating detonation you would see massive knock if it were enough to create issues IMHO. You would also see it on your plugs when you read them. If you are not correcting spark gap for the boost and running a colder plug you are going to have potential issues. I have NEVER heard of a warranty being void simply over a spark plug change. but then again I have only bought one Mustang new (had no issues with it). I buy used and don't worry about warranty because I know I am going to void most of it anyway.

Your goal here should not be to find the electrical/mechanical failure, but perform a series of logical steps that provide reasonable assurance that the setup is mechanically and electrically sound. If in the process you find a smoking gun, great. But don't pigeon hole your thought process by assuming that there has to be a malfunction. Check off the logical steps. Do the swaps to the best of your ability that have been discussed. Do the leak down tests. It will only ease your mind and allow you to focus elsewhere. But again go at this from the angle that you are proving that the integrity of the setup is good. Yes ECU's go bad. But it's not the norm. Usually it happens because some pinhead buys a used set of FI's that are not the correct impedance and burns up the switching transistors (or equiv electronic component) that sink the injector to logic low when commanded.

By the way Alex (YDBT) is a solid guy. He tuned my 14 and it ran like a dream. Sorry but I know when I have run out of being of help aside from being a cheerleader at this point. But if I come across anything or think of something (as I sometimes do when I wake up from a dead sleep with a thought), I'll chime in.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Not to say I'm a coherent writer but auto complete isnt helping any haha...
I meant to say since it is a warranty KIT....I have made sure to check only those things i was told to or change out...and with identical items as best as possible.
So I DID upon initial issue change to SP-522, understandably there was a lot of confusion in getting all my Stage 2 parts pulled and sent to me, so I wanted to make sure especially since a problem cropped up that I doubled checked with them stage to ( from 10 to 13 PSI) that it was the same plug and gap. Which they directly told me they were. So I ordered them immediately. Now the SP-522 is one step closer and comes pregapped to .035 which is what they wanted to I checked them all and installed them. And randomly swapped coils

Now I've ordered an additional set that are at the store. I was asserting that the problem was SO NEW that possibly the plugs I removed the first time didnt even have enough time with the change in condition to be affected to the point they could be read for clues. Like lean, carbon and oil but now it probably has. Also going for me is I now have 2 known good never misfired cylinders #1 and #5 so they would be perfect for both coil swaps and as controls for leakdown/compression test.

So now since I do want to pull them again and double check it allows me to read them with more time on the kit and I have known good coils to swap....but while they are removed might as well run some checks.
I'm sure they want me to bottom of this as well no one likes to hear from me at this point, I can't blame them I wanted to be a typical customer pays a pro to install his ironed out complete system and go about life with a few smashes now and then but that didnt happen either time hehe....I didnt even mind the first times because they had me ditch the SCT because I could send them more complete logs with my MPVI2 which sped up thru reverse engineering what they find relevant to my feedback, my own Coyote platform learning curve....so I took those negatives and made them positives for the learning process....
When I first emailed I assumed the same thing....just a boom here you go or do this specific thing log...which I did...and it would line out an issue at a time....just not working out that way however I'm a reasonable person I realize they dont know what's wrong either.
I've been going over and over things that could have been missed and I've been doing projects 30 years that's not bragging that saying I know full well the "DUH" moments hehe I keep looking and hoping for one.

If the plugs check out and coils change nothing and look great. I guess I'll do the mechanical checks ( leak down and compression), if they reveal nothing I'll order another fresh set of injectors. Its confusing some areas say 50lb Bosch some say 47Lu...I'll nail down which is it and pay for them and the labor. Leave them in box if he does find a cut o ring or something return them unopened if he finds nothing with them or the rails install the additional new ones.
If that doesnt resolve it, I was told by a reputable vendor sometimes the canned tunes just to take depending on PCM/strategy and see if I can get permission for a dedicated tuner to look at and tune it at least to troubleshoot....something I need my car.....
I would just ask Ford to do a full power balance test to save me some of the trouble if I wasnt changing plugs again already hehe....may still just do that...
I'm not saying its not something simple for sure but it doesnt seem to be headed that way.
Something is interrupting the firing and complete combustion process of some individual cylinders not in a false harmonic way but in a real way. I do realize on this platform there are many more variables to that process than most, but at least we can take care of the basics.
Injectors, Tb, maf horn and tune were changed. I do get what your saying about knock but I havent been driving it so no real load...only once to top off tank from a different station just in case, that's it...like 12 miles or something. Minimal, I'm sure given the intermittent nature most would drive it but I dont want to hurt anything. One could keep it out of the misfire zone a lot if they tried....

Thanks bud I hope my tone doesn't come off wrong I'm very appreciative of any help. And I'm convinced still this is a great system I just have some bad luck...someone has to be that guy.......I'm fine, if I had one complaint to any of the entities its that this isnt a race car or a project car its my daily it's why I bought this system...and there has been a real lack of urgency to get it going or return inquires from all parties involved. Absolutely understand problems have to be worked thru but you know how it is once it's not cookie cutter it all slows down they stop taking your calls ect haha....I'm so reasonable I dont even blame em for that ;) I wouldnt either if I didn't have answers....I never fault anything for having issues it's how its handled when it does be it a Cisco router or a EFI standalone...

 

[ugstang17]

Not at all,. Just having some struggles at times reading the responses. The autocomplete feature is causing some communication issues, but I cam make out everything for the most part. Sorry I am asking this so late in the process, but was the Supercharger package working fine before hand and then you started having problems after you chose to make a power upgrade to it? My initial interpretation of your message was that it was just taking time for all the parts to arrive together.

At this point if I were in your shoes, I would regap those plugs to .028 and go from there. 0.035 is not even close to any plug gap I have run on any of my four FI setups. 0.031" is the widest and I am currently running 0.026" at the my tuner's request on an 11psi setup. Further your statement indicates that you have had misfires on more than 3 cylinders as you state that 1, and 5 are the only cylinders that have never had a problem.

Last the point in my last statement was that sometimes it does end up being tune related. I don't ever like to just point at the tune, because its way too easy to pass the buck and those guys get that a lot. So proving out the car before hand goes a long way with them.

I sense no tone but frustration and some anxiety, but that would be expected given your health conditions. Will add a word in my nightly prayer tonight for your health. I'm not perfect but who is?

Hope to hear the outcome and that it is something minor. Update when you have a chance. Curiosity is killing me.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

Thanks
I had no issues with stage 1 by the time stage 2 parts were ordered except belt slip and the accompanying dust ( the stage 1 brackets look like they had been painted with flat black stove paint it was so thick hehe) and a issue where the trans tables just arent gone thru very well so sometimes it tripped a torque table that would drop the relative throttle out unload the rear tires and bring it back in. I logged that over and over but as the belt slip dropped lbs/min along with warmer weather that become right at a non issue. The belt slip seemed to fall off about 5-7lbs/min ( 50-60hp) and kinda hold from there I could put a fresh belt on same day and get it all back for 2 or 3 days. It had a SLIGHT heat soaked hot restart stumble and I mean really really nitpicking that. Tiny issue I only alerted them because I felt like others might take it more serious than me ( trying to he helpful). There were issues with the complete kit in the beginning, that were worked thru no worries.
That kit drove SO well car is all stock and I'd take it in and people wouldnt even know it's on there. It ran cooler than any non modded aka fans and/or ice tank TVS I've seen. Affected gas mileage none.....so it didnt have PROBLEMS really so much as less desirable attributes
When stage 2 was released I was very upset initially at cost as I had just purchased the stage 1 so the upgrade was 2.5x the cost of the difference between the full kits purchased outright.
However once I got over that I agreed with them that it would take care of ALL my problems the upgrade to 8rib would keep any slip in check and provide upward abilities along with the induction. I also get a nice boost in torque and horsepower under warranty. All in all I felt like I had to upgrade to get the most out of the kit I already has so much investment in AND I was told the stage 2 tune DID address the trans tables and shift strategy ect...so it would fix all my small nagging issues, provide more immediate power and open the door to go way higher later. He convinced me it made sense and it did.
When I ordered it was early and they didnt have their own packing check list right but I scheduled same installer ( remember 2-3week line) it got here 3 days before I was scheduled cause I had factored in issues...but only have the stuff was in it haha...then the second box had a fist sized hole and I having missed window again ( stage 1 was said to be in stock and wasnt I had to wait weeks). So getting all my parts and not truly knowing if I did have them all haha....they didnt even know. Again ok its brand new stuff.....
Calibration is always fast on your upgraded files I had it weeks before the parts haha....so that's what I mean by the insanity just getting the parts.....then after I had argued why people whom have bought a full kit should get an voucher for the difference between the full kits not the 4750 dollar price, get this they drop the price a $1000 on their website while I still dont have all my parts but have paid for it, even though I had sent emails ( after stage 1 issues ) to both the vendor and manufacturer and indeed even PMs here.....with ALL saying yes in stock.....hehe....didnt work out for me lol missed a 4th of July cruise my wife whom works 2 jobs took off for....( would help me spend more money on car haha) as it stands she is mocking me, with old car and new one holds both up and not running Haha...she said something to the effect that I thought you bought a new car and procharger ( its all she knows I usually on run prochargers ) and had it put on, cause you arent supposed to do this anymore....you know how wives cut ya haha.....I did look out kitchen window later and she has a point.
So yes all the parts finally come in got the install date set he had to sub 2 idler bolts I think nothing major and they sent me a different tensioner to try when this occurred...though they didnt tell me they did, I didn't know till I got an alert fron ups themselves cause I had a business account.

Ironically I didnt know they sent it so I looked up number on old one and it's a tensioner available thru oriellys needed my car...I do so much with them they gave me no trouble....obviously my misfires are real so it didnt help.
So yes I got all my parts and yes except the slip and torque table under heavy load aka fun run in country it was very well lined out and I loved it. It had a bad issue where it gassed the cylinders down due to the IAT and tune used at that time, causing it to run insano rich under 40 degrees ambient or IAT...sensor, harness and tune fixed it....harness fixed tb issue....
As I said those and even these problems are to some degree to be expected and worked thru however I dont feel like any sense of urgency has been displayed by any entity not just them to solve my issues. Still no worries give me a task I'll work thru it.
So yes for all intents yes I'd say it was "lined out" for the purpose of this contrasting degree of issue which frankly has the car unusable. This upgrade is for sure variable between not being able to use it and just nitpicking issues I was operating from.
It does make me wish along with being what I feel like is overpriced ( my opinion ) at the original price it was released at, that I had just left it alone especially when tuners I've contacted, refuse to tune it in this boost level and would require me to drop it back to 11psi but would still make 50 wheel more. The well known tuner simply thinks 13+ is just to much to operate daily with 93 crippled by tune vs a more robust tune on lower boost and rotor speed...just their opinion.....
Yes every single tuner or person with this boost level and rotor pack all give me a different plug and gap recommendation, however I directly asked the question and went with their answer. SP-522 and. 035 gap...every single other private and company source says less gap and a different plug...NGK usually and in range of gap you suggest....however I will honor what they specify for their calibration.
So variables are the injectors, tb, 113mm MAF, airbox and bap were installed at same time with their tune put on...one of those is the variable hehe......I really feel like this will all be worth it once I get cooperation from all involved and some additional testing done.
I've exhausted what they have come up with to test and the end of my knowledge minus mechanical testing. So I came here at great peril, as reading thru this is a knowledgeable but fairly viscous place at times, out of desperation to get my car going.
Sitting here no hoping wife gets back in time to take me to pick up parts....as I'm scared to drive it and get stranded....
Forgot to answer question. Codes started with p0300, then p3016...then p0303,7,8 some more persistent than others like 8! When I mentioned #1 and #5 as good controls I simply meant never tossed a code pending or permanent and both easy to reach haha.....
Thanks very much.....

 

[ugstang17]

No problem.

With this better understood, I would be inclined to reload the previous tune and just start the car and let it idle to see if you get the very same codes or if they change. For that matter install the previous injectors and tune and give it a start. The pulley change won't be a factor at light throttle. Just don't go into boost...of course you know that. You should be able to ease up the RPM range without entering boost to probably 3000 RPM. Just keep an eye on the boost gauge, STFT, and AFR and throttle up slow while datalogging. Then put the new injectors and tune back in and try to do the same. You can begin logging (in case you weren't aware) with KOEO so you can log the start sequence. Then they have a before and after they can use to provide you some feedback.

You paid good money for this package. The provider (not the distributor...unless they created the package) should be standing behind this kit regardless of how many times you have contacted them.

With this better understanding of how this all transpired I will go out on a limb here and make a blind hunch based on what all we have discussed and what all you have done based on:

1.) It's a new kit being introduced to a package that was previously working.

2.) You've done everything possible to verify the car mechanically short of a leak down test and having Ford do an in depth diagnostics and vibration analysis -- which they have the ability to do with knock sensor technology. The automotive world is making large advances forward in diagnostics and has almost caught up with the diagnostics level of equipment I work on in manufacturing.

3.) The Stage one package worked as designed prior to the upgrade.

Highly unlikely IMHO its 3 bad fuel injectors but that aside, my conclusion is that the provider has a lot of tuning left to do with their tune.

 

[BlueCollarDaily]

No problem.

With this better understood, I would be inclined to reload the previous tune and just start the car and let it idle to see if you get the very same codes or if they change. For that matter install the previous injectors and tune and give it a start. The pulley change won't be a factor at light throttle. Just don't go into boost...of course you know that. You should be able to ease up the RPM range without entering boost to probably 3000 RPM. Just keep an eye on the boost gauge, STFT, and AFR and throttle up slow while datalogging. Then put the new injectors and tune back in and try to do the same. You can begin logging (in case you weren't aware) with KOEO so you can log the start sequence. Then they have a before and after they can use to provide you some feedback.

You paid good money for this package. The provider (not the distributor...unless they created the package) should be standing behind this kit regardless of how many times you have contacted them.

With this better understanding of how this all transpired I will go out on a limb here and make a blind hunch based on what all we have discussed and what all you have done based on:

1.) It's a new kit being introduced to a package that was previously working.

2.) You've done everything possible to verify the car mechanically short of a leak down test and having Ford do an in depth diagnostics and vibration analysis -- which they have the ability to do with knock sensor technology. The automotive world is making large advances forward in diagnostics and has almost caught up with the diagnostics level of equipment I work on in manufacturing.

3.) The Stage one package worked as designed prior to the upgrade.

Highly unlikely IMHO its 3 bad fuel injectors but that aside, my conclusion is that the provider has a lot of tuning left to do with their tune.

I had thought about that, going back to stock injectors, tb and MAF housing so that the original tune would work. Actually thinking about that a lot....with the MAF housing being so much larger the "working tune" wont work with it. I thought about trying the injectors alone just at idle to see.....
I can neither confirm nor deny the 6 rib tensioner and belt was retried as that was said to be part of the issue the new MUCH higher spring pressure and much heavier duty 8 rib tensioner introduced harmonic the PCM interprets as misfires....
I keep leaning towards the worst but then I think how clean it runs above 2700.....I was to ill to pull the plugs yesterday intend to do it in a few....

 

[ugstang17]

The heavy duty tensioner causing misfires? I would be more inclined to think knock would be induced rather than misfires. Harmonics is what knock sensors are looking for between 10-12Khz.

When you are up to it and I know you aren't well, we will find out more. PM sent

 

[Tommy V]

With the fuel trims locking like you say i would check your front o2 sensors.

 

[Tommy V]

Also you said something a code po315.If you.are indeed getting this code their is no way to.do a crank relearn with having that code.

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