Need help with accessories

[GrayS550]

I need to remove hard water spots from all my glass. I have no knowledge of what I need to buy.

I have a battery operated Milwaukee grinder that supposedly I can use as a polisher, with the correct attachments. Which attachments/chemicals/soap do I need to be able to remove all these water spots?

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[DFB5.0]

I need to remove hard water spots from all my glass. I have no knowledge of what I need to buy.

I have a battery operated Milwaukee grinder that supposedly I can use as a polisher, with the correct attachments. Which attachments/chemicals/soap do I need to be able to remove all these water spots?

You will need a "hook and loop" backing plate. This will convert the grinder into a rotary polisher.

A quick search on the Milwaukee website shows them using part number # 49-36-2792 on their Rotary polisher, but I would do a bit more digging to be sure.

18v Cordless Variable Speed Polisher (milwaukeetool.com)
54-32-2700.pdf (milwaukeetool.com)

Rotaries are very good for polishing glass because you won't inflict any swirls or holograms like you could on clear-coated paint. Rotaries do create more heat, so you need to be careful with that on glass by keeping the machine moving and not focusing on one spot for too long.

You will need a water spot/mineral deposit remover as your first move. These remove/neutralize the minerals and stop them from resurfacing after a day or two. Look at Carpro Spotless, Gyeon Water Spot Remover or Gtechniq W9.

Gtechniq - W9 Water Spot Remover | The Rag Company

Sometimes, if you're lucky the use of the above products may actually remove the water-spots. If you can still see them, that's when you would polish the remaining visual damage. You can use any heavy cutting compound on a firm cutting pad, but I really like P&S Clarity Creme for this role. I use it with a blue Lake Country SDO or HDO pad -

P&S Detail Products - Clarity Creme Glass Polish | The Rag Company
Lake Country - HDO Foam Pads | The Rag Company

Once you have polished, wipe the residue off with glass cleaner or a prep spray like Eraser and evaluate your results. The above combo should sort out the problem, but you may need to repeat if the water spots have been there for a while.

Hope that helps, post #20 in this thread has a more detailed response on water spots -

The Decontamination Thread | Page 2 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[kilobravo]

Rotaries are very good for polishing glass

I'll second the emotion to watch for heat build up with the rotary and, I'll put in a plug for CP Spotless. MOF, I had a non-automotive experience with it the other day and it amazed me.

The automatic pool cleaner has a tail that "swishes" and when it rides up the sides to the water level, it rolls over and starts back down. BUT, in the process, the tail would flip up out of the water and spray a WHOLE bunch.

NBD EXCEPT when it's near one of the back windows where it would literally soak the big picture window in the kitchen. Being pool water, it has some minerals in it and it spotted that window worse than any car I've ever seen.

But, two passes with Spotless and the window was minus ALL the spots. Highly-recommended.

 

[DFB5.0]

I'll second the emotion to watch for heat build up with the rotary and, I'll put in a plug for CP Spotless. MOF, I had a non-automotive experience with it the other day and it amazed me.

The automatic pool cleaner has a tail that "swishes" and when it rides up the sides to the water level, it rolls over and starts back down. BUT, in the process, the tail would flip up out of the water and spray a WHOLE bunch.

NBD EXCEPT when it's near one of the back windows where it would literally soak the big picture window in the kitchen. Being pool water, it has some minerals in it and it spotted that window worse than any car I've ever seen.

But, two passes with Spotless and the window was minus ALL the spots. Highly-recommended.

I have found that two applications will remove most, if not all of the water spots. It also works best if allowed to dwell on the surface for a short period before wiping.

 

[wmoore26]

Cerium oxide, Autogeek.net

 

[DFB5.0]

Cerium oxide, Autogeek.net

I would agree, but as a last resort. I went down the CeriGlass (cerium oxide) route a few times, but in most cases, it's not worth the hassle.

CeriGlass can do some great work, but it's extremely messy and requires supplemental lubrication/cooling to make it safe. And the residue is extremely abrasive, so you have to be ultra careful when removing any splatter from the paint. Taping the rubbers is also vitally important.

I would be using the water spot removers first, you need to do this anyway to prevent the spots returning. Then try a regular polish or the Clarity Creme I posted earlier. CeriGlass as the last resort.

For the OP, this video explains why you need to use the water spot remover as a first step. (The first few minutes are very enlightening) -

 

[kilobravo]

I have found that two applications will remove most, if not all of the water spots.

Yep, totally agree, D..most spots need a double pass but it's SO much easier than trying to do it with a machine. Anything that will save me elbow grease gets high marks.

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